What Did We Drink For Christmas?

 My Christmas was quite small in scope and the wines were mostly disappointing.

A Pipers Brook Late Disgorged Sparkling was fine, but not very distinctive. The Tyrell’s Vat 47 was better, quite traditional with a nice peachy mouthfeel. On the red front, I was disappointed by two different Mataros (see post below). I then needed something special. I opened a 2009 Robert Chevillon 1er cru Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains. The fruit profile was fine, but nothing special. I enjoyed the silky finish.

What did you drink over Christmas? Get on the board! I would like some American or European contributions, too.

Mataro (Mourvèdre) Time

 The days around Christmas have been quite cool in Sydney, so I decided to open some Mataro. This variety is found most often blended with Shiraz and Grenache as a Southern Rhône or Australian wine. Mataro tends to produce tannic wines, with gamy notes. It is also difficult to grow. However, there are some straight variety wines.

The first wine I opened was the 2016 Powell & Son Kleinig Vineyard Mataro. Seven years seemed like a good age. However, the wine showed very ripe and burnt. Mulberry and earthy flavours were dull. Tannins had mellowed. The wine clearly lost its energy and had aged too quickly.

Score: 82/--

The second wine was an entry level 2021 Alkina Mataro. I expected this to be much fresher, due to the winemaker and its young age. It had a similar dark colour to the Powell. The typicity was quite good, with mulberry and savoury flavours. The wine had more energy than the Powell, but it was still very full-bodied and quite thick in the mouth - not very exciting.

Score: 88/0

I think I prefer to enjoy Mataro as part of a blend.

Wild Duck Creek Shiraz Reserve

 A few days ago, I was given a 2009 Wild Duck Creek Shiraz Reserve. It came with a warning: 17% alcohol. Wild Duck Creek used to be one of the Australian Parker cult producers. How did this wine hold up after 14 years? I was concerned.

The colour was a deep purple-brown - not a good sign. I could smell the alcohol.

On the palate, the wine was overripe, tasting of raisin and alcohol. I was inclined to say this wine was past its best, but did it ever have a best? It was hard to drink one glass.

So here we have a producer who liked to make ripe wine, in a drought year, and an attempt to enjoy this wine after 14 years. This could not work. It was a stark reminder how crazy some Shiraz got in the 90s and 00s. It was so misguided.

Score: 70/--- 

Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir

 I have been collecting Felton Road Pinot Noir wines for many years. They produce about five single vineyard wines, and then there is the blended Bannockburn wine from the remaining grapes. Obviously, the single vineyard wines are more expensive. Over the years, I have observed an almost perfect correlation between the price points of the single vineyard wines and the blend and the scores. Blind tasting? I found the blend often more layered and complex than some of the single vineyard wines.

The labels of these wines are very similar and quite boring, but the content is anything but. This is the 2019 Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir. There is a dark cherry and forest floor aroma arising from the glass. On the palate, red and black cherry flavours are matched with some underbrush and excellent oak integration. Fresh acidity and solid tannins produce a perfect balance. The finish is long and lingering.

Score: 95/+++

Don Melchor

 It has been a long time between drinks, drinks of Don Melchor that is. My last taste of Chile’s Grange was over 20 years ago, but yesterday I allowed myself a bottle of the 2020 Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon. Like Penfolds in Treasury Wine Estates, Don Melchor has become a separate identity within Concha y Toro.

The wine is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon. Red and black currant flavours, as well as blue fruits (the Cabernet Franc influence?) deliver a complex profile on the palate. The wine is quite concentrated and generous in the mouth. A stony element keeps it energetic. The wine has substantial fruit weight, but not as much as Grange. It is a majestic and elegant wine. The racy acidity delivers good energy. The firm tannins are substantial and very dry, leading to a medium plus finish.

Based on this bottle, Don Melchor deserves the status of the classically fashioned top wine of Chile.

Score: 96/+++

Castello Banfi Summus

 When one thinks of Super Tuscans, the first names which come to mind are probably Sassicaia and Ornellaia, which are very expensive. However, Super Tuscans simply means world grape varieties, in particular Cabernet Sauvignon are added to Sangiovese, often in the majority. However, not all are expensive. Let’s see how this 2018 Castello Banfi Summus shapes up.

This Summus is a blend of 40% Sangiovese, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Shiraz. Red cherry and currant fruit flavours are added to by mocca, tobacco and herbal notes. The wine is quite spicy on the palate and tastes a touch underripe, despite its 14.5% alcohol. Acidity and tannins are quite pronounced. I found the wine a bit unbalanced. A super Tuscan? Maybe not.

Score: 89/-

Paul Hobbs Russian River Pinot Noir

 I am writing this tasting note after this 2020 Paul Hobbs Russian River Pinot Noir has been opened for two days. This is a good thing, as this wine is obviously young and a bit overwhelming.

This is a concentrated and rich wine. Selected from premium growers across the valley, the fruit delivers dark cherry, plum, beetroot and forest underbrush flavours. This is a brooding wine with firm, somewhat coarse tannins. The finish is long.

This wine is certainly on the big side for a Pinot Noir. Alcohol comes in at 14.3%. Paul Hobbs is a highly regarded winemaker, with operations in different continents, particularly in Argentina. He has a full throttle style, which you may or may not find appealing.

Score: 92/0

Lowestoft Best Barrels Chardonnay

 Following on from the impressive first release Lowestoft Pinot Noir reviewed a few posts below, I am now reporting on the 2019 Lowestoft Best Barrels Chardonnay.

Tasmania has become a hot bed for Chardonnay. And like the Pinot Noir, this is a blended wine of the best barrels from Tamar Valley, Coal River Valley and Tasman Peninsula. This wine was matured in large format oak (I think French), 35% new.

The flavours are complex, with citrus, grapefruit, and a hint of pineapple, added to by the cashew nut of the oak. This is a fresh wine with a balanced texture, and a firm line to the finish.

I would characterize this Chardonnay as occupying the middle ground between the lean types, currently so popular, and the full-blown Chardonnays, say California style.

Score: 94/++ 

Yangarra Rosé

 Yangarra grows all Rhône varieties on its estate. No wonder their Rosé is made in the Provence style with a very pale colour.

But do not be fooled if you plan to drive. This 2023 Yangarra Rosé has 13.0% alcohol. I do not get much on the nose. Purity and freshness are the main impressions on the palate. Flavours of strawberry and pink apple are quite restrained. The wine would work well with a light salad or salmon mousse. If you like your Rosé with low flavour impact, this well made wine is for you. 

Score: 88/+

Yangarra Piquepoul

 Piquepoul Blanc is mainly grown in the Southern Rhône and in Languedoc. It is predominantly blended into Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but the percentages are very low. It was first introduced in Australia in 2017. As there is more of a tendency for single varietal wines in Australia, you see this variety now displayed on bottles from McLaren Vale. Coriole was an early leader.

Now it has been picked up by the cannot do wrong Peter Fraser of Yangarra. Is it a worth while effort? I suggest it is. The 2023 Yangarra Piquepoul is a pale green in the glass. It gives fragrant aromas away on the nose.

On the palate, it is a fresh wine, with light pear flavours, good drive, minerality, and a little sweetness on the finish. It tastes a bit like a less serious Chablis. This wine should be drunk quite cool - excellent for summer lunch, in particular salads and also oysters.

Score: 89/++ 

 

Torbreck The Struie

 I often enjoy the mid level wines more than the top wines from wineries which are known to produce late picked, ripe wines. So it is with The Struie from Torbreck.

As always, there is Barossa dirt in an empty Torbreck bottle, but the 2018 Torbreck The Struie delivers a surprise. The colour is deep purple, typical of a full-bodied South Australian Shiraz. The fruit in this year includes only 25% Eden Valley fruit. Normally it is 50%.

On the palate, the complex flavours comprise blackberry, mulberry, black olive, spice, and tobacco. One experiences a full-bodied mouthfeel, and it is surprisingly fresh and alive. The wine is very balanced, matching the fruit with lively acidity and firm tannins. The finish has medium length.

This is an example of a well-made full-bodied Shiraz. It is pretty full throttle, with 15% alcohol, but quite satisfying to drink. It would appeal to a wide range of red wine drinkers.

Score: 95/+++

Lowestoft Pinot Noir

 The 2018 Lowestoft Pinot Noir is the first wine of this new Tasmanian label, put together by the Fogarty Wine Group, owners of Dalwhinnie, Deep Woods, Evans & Tate, amongst others.

This is not a single vineyard wine, but a best barrels selection from vineyards across Tasmania. The wine has been matured in large format French oak, 35% new. It is positioned as an ultra premium wine.

And the wine is impressive. It is a delicate wine of great purity, initially quite understated. Red cherry fruit and some darker and earthy flavours, backed by firm acidity, deliver quite a piercing mouthfeel. The fine grained tannins linger long on the palate.

Score: 94/+++ 

Head Ancestor Grenache

 Alex Head has dramatically increased his range. The Ancestor Grenache comes from the famous 163 year old Stonegarden Vineyard at Springton, Eden Valley. The soil is sandy loam over decomposed granite and clay.

Only 900 bottles were made of the 2020 Head Ancestor Grenache. This is a soft and smooth version of Grenache. Raspberry, cherry, and plum flavours lead to a very round and ripe mouthfeel. Black olive and cola flavours add complexity. The acidity is low, the tannins are fine grained. The wine ends with a velvety finish.

This wine is not quite my style, but it is well made.

Score: 93/+ 

Unico Zelo Fresh A.F.

 I am not discussing the commune and environmental based philosophy of Unico Zelo here, but it is worth while to read up on it. This is a review of the 2022 Unico Zelo Fresh A.F., a wine based on Nero d'Avola, with some Grenache, and the rare white wine variety Zibibbo thrown in. 

The fruit comes from the Riverland, known for high yielding, high production vineyards. However, this fruit is especially selected for its quality.

This wine is super bright, fresh, and pure. It is all about the fruit; red and black cherry, pomegranate. The wine is lively, with an appealing texture. Fine tannins lead to a balanced finish.

This Unico Zelo is a medium-bodied wine, great for summer, and at great value.

Score: 90/++

Joshua Cooper Ray-Monde Vineyard Pinot Noir

 I am not a big fan of new wineries putting out wines at big prices without a history of success. However, at this winery, success is coming quickly. Just recently, Joshua Cooper has been named best new winery in the Halliday guide for 2024. But it is not exactly without history. Joshua Cooper is the son of Alan Cooper of Cobaw Ridge, the established winery in the Macedon Ranges. It has to be said, though, that while Joshua gained experience in this region, father and son do not necessarily see eye to eye, when it comes to winemaking. Anyway, today I am tasting the 2019 Joshua Cooper Ray-Monde Vineyard Pinot Noir.

Ray-Monde is a grower vineyard at 400m elevation between Sunbury and Macedon. The soil is poor, with bluestone rock prominent. Gravelly ironstone and basaltic clay form the soil.

The wine is very fragrant on the nose. Black cherry, kirsch, licorice, and earthy flavours combine in an ethereal texture. The wine is more linear than voluptuous, with excellent drive and energy. Fine tannins round out the sophisticated composition of this medium-bodied wine (12.5% alcohol) before it finishes medium plus. Macedon has delivered again.

Score: 95/+++

 

Philip Shaw No19 Sauvignon Blanc

The 2023 Philip Shaw No19 Sauvignon Blanc is an attempt to produce a wine more like a Sancerre than a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Did he succeed?

The starting point is good, high altitude at 900 meters, short maturation in mostly used French oak. The colour is pale straw.

But still, on the palate, it immediately hits me with gooseberry. The wine is crisp, with some citrus flavours, and not herbaceous. The texture is finer than many New Zealand examples, and the finish is fresh and smooth. However, the gooseberry flavours make it a new world wine. They are too strong for me.

Score: 89/0  

 

Hirsch Vineyards Horizontal Tasting

 I was attracted to Hirsch Vineyards for a couple of reasons. It is not located in the heart of Sonoma, where Pinot Noirs can be big and bold, but rather at Sonoma Coast, where the climate is cooler and wetter. And Secondly, because the owners have gone through a big effort to identify individual blocks which have different soil and aspect characteristics, and are bottled separately. The last few days, I compared three of their wines from 2016.

The first wine I review here is the best of barrels 2016 Reserve. As is often the case with best of barrels wines, this wine is overdone, in my view. The wine has good concentration of red and black cherry fruit, but it is not very precise or differentiated. It shows some fruit ripeness, but also green components. The tannins are dry and long before the wine finishes firm, but a little dull.

Score: 90/0

Then I look at the 2016 East Ridge. The peculiar aspect of this steep sloped vineyard is that two thirds of the vines have phylloxera. The owners say it is very carefully managed, and I quite like this wine, particularly on the second day. It is more restrained than the Reserve with red cherry and savoury earthy flavours. The wine has better balance overall, but the tannins are still quite plucky.

Score: 92/+

The third wine is the 2016 Block 8, regarded by the owners as their grand cru. There are concentrated red fruits on the palate, but the overriding feature is the high level of acidity, backed by firm tannins. Again, I did not find this wine all that pleasing to drink.

Score: 91/0

While the wines are not bad, I found this tasting experience disappointing. I did not see the terroir coming through all that much, and I missed any kind of enchantment I like to associate with good Pinot Noir.

 

Two Leading Australian Pinot Noirs

 It is interesting to compare these two leading Australian Pinot Noirs I drank this week, even though they are of different age. They are the two brands with international Pinot Noir reputation.

Firstly, the 2020 Bass Phillip Estate Pinot Noir. Since the ownership change, the label is a little different; old vines is added. Is the wine different? This Pinot Noir is full-bodied, with flamboyant red and black cherry flavours. The wine is quite fruity, delivering a big mouthfeel, but there are also earthy notes, and smoky and salty flavours. This is quite Burgundian in a Vosne-Romanée style. The silky tannins have appeal, and the aromatic and expanding finish is excellent. The wine is 

perhaps a bit fruity, but it has other attractive elements. It certainly tastes like a Bass Phillip of old.

Score: 94/++

The 2017 By Farr Sangreal Pinot Noir is also big fruited, with dark cherry and black fruited jam flavours. It is also quite savoury. This wine certainly packs a punch, maybe a bit too much, but the fine grained tannins compensate. The wine shows an attractive salinity and a long finish. It is ultimately well composed, and would appeal to Shiraz drinkers.

Score: 94/++

In terms of international recognition, these two wines would certainly come across as Australian wines, bigger fruited than Burgundy. The expanding finish is a hallmark of Bass Phillip, and only the best Burgundies show this well. There are aspects which could improve before I would call these world- class, but they are excellent examples of how far Australian Pinot Noir has come.

Picq Chablis

 If you like crisp, clean, linear, but flavoursome Chablis, tasting of citrus rind, oyster shell, minerality and salt, this 2021 Picq Chablis is for you. This wine delivers a no nonsense Chablis, no diversion, no oak, natural yeast. It is utterly delicious.

Gilbert Picq & ses Fils is a small estate of about 14ha, comprising hillside vineyards near the town of Chicée. Some of the vineyards have a lot of small stones and no clay. The resulting wines tend to be crisp, chalky, and tinglingly mineral. 

This wine will easily age for ten years. Seek it out.

Score: 93/+++ 

 

Casanova Di Neri Tenuta Nuova Brunello

 I am not a big drinker of Brunello, but recently the 2016 Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova impressed me.

The palate is quite complex: red and black cherry, blood orange, chocolate, forest floor and a little bit of spice. This is a big wine, but quite pure, nicely packaged in firm acidity and dry tannins. This wine is powerful and elegant at the same time.

Score: 96/+++

 

Bordeaux Style Blends New Zealand

 The last post in the series of premium wines from New Zealand looks at quite an eclectic group of Bordeaux style blends from the North Island.

Three wines stood out from this line-up. My favourite wine was the 2019 Church Road TOM from Hawke's Bay, the predominant region of Bordeaux style wines in New Zealand. This Cabernet Merlot delivers red cherry and blackberry fruit flavours against a background of smoky notes. This is an elegant wine with soft tannins and a long finish. It is the most expensive of the wines reviewed here (96/+++ points).

Not far behind is the 2020 Man O' War Ironclad Merlot blend. This winery from Waiheke Island is going from strength to strength. It has a similar fruit profile to the previous wine. The wine is quite big and intense, while still elegant. It delivers attractive lifted notes on the finish (95/+++ points).

I also enjoyed the 2018 Paritua 21.12 from Hawke's Bay. This is a Cabernet blend with a similar tasting profile to the Church Road. The wine has medium concentration, and is elegant with silky tannins and a satisfying finish (95/+++ points).

The 2019 Te Motu Cabernet blend is fresh, with redcurrant flavours, a bit confected. This is a relatively straight forward, smooth wine (92/+ points).

Also from Waiheke Island is the 2017 Tantalus Ecluse Reserve, another Cabernet blend. This wine has medium concentration. It is a harmonious wine, but a bit bland (92/+ points).

Overall, Bordeaux style wines have come a long way in New Zealand. The blends are sophisticated, seamless, and elegant. They should certainly be considered as alternatives to Pinot Noir.

Powell & Son GSM

Powell & Son did not exist for long. David Powell is now Neldner Road, and Callum is Agricola. When David Powell was winemaker at Torbreck, he sometimes mentioned that making GSM was his favourite, in particular the Steading. This 2018 Powell & Son GSM is very similar.

The Grenache flavours of strawberry and red cherry dominate the front palate. Then the sweet core of Shiraz plum fruit takes over, and finally the savoury flavours of the Mataro. This is all seamless and well integrated. The wine delivers a full mouthfeel. It is generous and balanced, not overblown and not complicated. Firm tannins and enough acidity deliver a solid structure.

Score: 93/+++

 

New Zealand Chardonnay

 No grape variety in New Zealand can match Sauvignon Blanc by volume, but when we talk quality, it is a different story. Here are four New Zealand Chardonnays from excellent producers.

Kumeu River, from the unlikely Auckland region, has been making outstanding Chardonnays for many years. The 2022 Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay is continuing this 'tradition'. The wine delivers an elegant mouthfeel with a palate of stone fruit, melon, and peach. This wine delivers an excellent blend between body and acidity (95/++ points).

The 2022 Felton Road Block 2 Chardonnay has a lighter texture, very fine, with excellent oak integration. The finish is very long (95/++ points).

Quite expensive is the 2018 Bell Hill Chardonnay from North Canterbury. It is very interesting on the palate: Green apple fruit mixed with herbal and grassy notes. It is interesting, but not quite my favourite taste (94/+ points).  

I was a bit disappointed with the 2022 Neudorf Rosie's Block Amphora Chardonnay. The fruit profile is similar to the Kumeu River, but the wine is less precise, and the finish a little bland (91/0 points).

Chateau Tanunda

 The last time I drank Chateau Tanunda wines was about ten years ago in preparation for my book. I had not been impressed. In fact, I found it totally puzzling how this winery could collect so many medals in big shows overseas. I thought the grounds of the Chateau are the highlight - and they are really magnificent.

Recently, I had an opportunity to taste three wines from their bamboozling range. The first wine, from the Terroirs of the Barossa series was the 2019 Chateau Tanunda Ebenezer Shiraz. This is a full-bodied wine, quite ripe, the ironstone soil reflected on the palate. This is a red fruited wine, quite tannic, only just within the envelop of what I regard as an acceptable expression of dry red wine. This wine is very concentrated and could certainly have been more elegant (90/0 points).

The other two wines were from Bethany, which features black biscay soil, not really ideal for growing quality wine. (I note Bethany Wines is up for sale.) The 2019 50 Year Old Vines Shiraz is very dark. Blackberry and chocolate flavours are matched with coarse tannins. Again, a concentrated wine lacking elegance (90/0 points).

The last wine was the 2019 50 Year Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine was overripe, oaky, and quite sweet. The chocolate flavours could not match this impression. The wine had a coarse finish (86/-- points).

I am happy not to taste Chateau Tanunda for another ten years.  

Ultra Premium New Zealand Pinot Noir Tasting

 Hot on the heals of the previous (slightly disappointing, from a New Zealand perspective) tasting comes another New Zealand Pinot Noir tasting, where some wines blew me away.

The star of the show, named after the winemaker and its inaugural release, was the 2020 Ata Rangi Masters Pinot Noir. It comes from a cool site 4km away from the home block. This is a very Burgundian wine with strawberry, pomegranate, and red cherry flavours. Earthy notes add to the complexity. The tannins are peppery and silky. This wine is superbly elegant with the seldom experienced expanding peacock fan on the finish. This wine will gain from some cellaring. It would give many grand cru a run for their (much more expensive) money (97/+++ points).

Another very impressive wine was the 2019 Burn Cottage 'Burn Cottage Vineyard' Pinot Noir from Central Otago. It delivers beautiful focused red and black cherry flavours, which seem to dance on the tongue. This is a smooth and elegant wine with a soft, perfumed, and slightly spicy finish (95/+++ points).

I also enjoyed a wine from 2015, of which I do not know anything. This was the 2015 Te Whare Ra SV5182 Pinot Noir from Marlborough. This red cherry flavoured wine is still fresh. It is an elegant wine of medium concentration (94/++ points).

A more intense wine with a big mouthfeel is the 2017 Prophet's Rock Cuvée aux Antipodes Pinot Noir. This is a complex wine with dark cherry and mocca flavours. While impressive, it felt a little overworked and slightly out of balance. And twice the price of the Ata Rangi? I don't think so (93/++ points). 

On 92 points were the final three wines: the 2013 Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir (a bit fruity, but sophisticated elegance); the 2020 Pyramid Valley Korimako Pinot Noir (very aromatic, quite light, mouthfeel a bit too round); 2021 Craggy Range Aroha Pinot Noir (quite fruity, elegant, but mouthfeel a bit flat).

These wines showed the complexity and elegance I was missing from the New Zealand wines in the last tasting. Having said this, there is no change from a $100 note for these wines. In some cases quite a bit more.

Australia vs. New Zealand Pinot Noir Tasting

 A couple of days ago, I tasted six premium Australian and six premium New Zealand Pinot Noirs. Who came out ahead? Perhaps surprising, I scored the Australian Pinot Noirs slightly higher. Why? There were clearly country differences. The Australian wines were quite savoury and often with good energy. The New Zealand wines were fruitier and often a little round with not enough to show on the finish.

My top wine, unexpected, was the 2019 Picardy Tête de Cuvée from Pemberton. This is Picardy's best Pinot Noir of the vintage. Some of the fruit is densely planted, and the yields are low. The wine opens quite light on the palate, as the red and dark cherry fruit emerges. This is quite a complex and earthy wine with cigar box flavours underneath. The tannins are fine, supported by 30% whole bunch, and the finish is long (96/+++ points). Just behind was the 2020 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, quite an intense, dark fruited wine. The mouthfeel is plush and smooth, and very textural. The wine has good persistence and a long finish (96/+++ points). 

In the next level came the highly acclaimed 2022 Ossa Pinot Noir from the Belrose vineyard near Swansea. The fruit is quite young and vibrant, and the wine has good intensity, but feels slightly blocky in the mouth. The 2022 Giant Steps Wombat Creek tasted of red cherry, with medium intensity and fine tannins - overall a more balanced wine. Also impressive was the 2018 Moondarra Sambaside Pinot Noir, a new label to me. This wine was on the lighter side with savoury notes, not dissimilar to the Picardy (93/94 points for these wines).

The next group included three wines from New Zealand, the 2022 Two Paddocks Estate Pinot Noir, the 2021 Valli Gibbston Vineyard Pinot Noir, and the 2022 High Garden Vineyard Pinot Noir. As mentioned, these wines have a strong fruit profile, but were not as well structured as the wines above (92 points).

The final group included the 2021 Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir, the 2021 Shaw & Smith Lenswood Pinot Noir, the 2020 Neudorf Home Block, and the 2016 Fromm Cuvee H Pinot Noir - all 90 points.

Hayes Family Wines Tasting

 Hayes Family Wines is a certified organic winery in the heart of the Barossa. A recent tasting showed some strength, but also some easy pitfalls of winemaking in the Barossa.

Hayes produces a large number of different wines. The first wine I tasted was the 2021 Koonunga Creek Block Grenache. The Koonunga subregion is famous for its sandy soil, and therefore well suited to Grenache. The grapes for this wine come from 130 year old vines, but as can easily be the case with Grenache, this wine is too alcoholic (15%). The old 500l oak barrels cannot tame the alcohol. The raspberry flavours are very ripe, and although the wine seems balanced otherwise, the hot finish takes the pleasure out of this wine (88/0 points).

This contrasts with the 2021 Glengrae Old Bush Block Grenache from Ebenezer. The vines grow on the famous red-brown clay, and deliver a darker wine. Raspberry, black cherry, mocca flavours, and some spice vie for your attention. This is an attractive and elegant wine with a medium finish. Alcohol is 14.5% (94/++ points).

Then there is the 2021 Prayer Garden Grenache, also from Ebenezer. The soil is sand over clay, and the wine is more red fruited. It is not a bad wine, but the mouthfeel is not very distinct (91/0 points).

The first Shiraz is the 2019 Estate Reserve Shiraz from Stonewell. 2019 was a drought year, and it shows in this wine. It has a sweet core and a very oaky flavour (86/-- points).

The 2018 Ancestor Shiraz is a better option. This wine is also intense and quite big, but the blackberry and vanilla flavours deliver a much more elegant and balanced mouthfeel (92/0 points). 

Mayfield Vineyards Tasting

 Orange with its high altitude is becoming a source of high quality wine. Today, I will introduce Mayfield Vineyards to you.

Mayfield Vineyards has been many things to (a few) people, but with the acquisition by the Eastham Family in 2021, there is now a focus on Chardonnay. I taste their three Chardonnays from 2022.

The 2022 'Eighteen Fifteen' Chardonnay undergoes 75% malolactic fermentation, and is matured in 25% new French oak. It is quite a lean and focussed wine with citrus and peach flavours and some flint, in the modern Australian style. It has a good line and fine acidity (90/+ points).

The 2022 'Thomas' Chardonnay has only 50% malo, also with 25% new oak of 500 and 300l barrels. The oak integration is more seamless than in the previous wine, and the outcome is a more elegant and creamy palate (92/++ points).

The 2022 'Block 14' Chardonnay, the showcase of the winery, is a little different. This is a more acidic wine, with pronounced minerality, and clearly made to age well. Lemon, grapefruit and stone fruit flavours deliver a complex palate (93/++ points).

I enjoyed these wines, but the pricing is ambitious.

Woodlands Tasting

 Woodlands brands can be very confusing, but there is actually quite a simple logic. The original vineyard, now 50 years old, is the Woodlands vineyard or Caves Rd. vineyard. It is the source of the 'Margaret' and the single vineyard Cabernet blend. The second vineyard is the Woodlands Brook or Puzey Rd. vineyard, some 2km away, purchased in 2007. This is the source of Cabernet Franc and younger Cabernet Sauvignon.

All wines are named after family members, the confusing bit is that the single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon has a different name every year. Will they ever run out of names?

The Home Block

The 2021 'Emily' is Cabernet Franc based. The vineyard is south facing, based on fine clay. As a result, this wine is light- to medium-bodied and very pretty. Black cherry is the dominant flavour of this elegant, slightly spiced wine. It is very well made, very charming, and I liked it a lot (93/+++ points). The 2018 Clementine, from the same vineyard is a Cabernet/Merlot. It is darker, still only medium-bodied. The tannins are firmer, but there is a bit of a hole on the mid palate, despite the Merlot component (92/++ points).

The Caves Rd. vineyard is north facing. The wines from here, including the core 'Margaret' are more concentrated. The 2018 'Margaret' is a Cabernet/Merlot matured in 40% new oak. It is noticeably more intense than the previous wine, but still quite elegant (93/++ points).

I tasted three single vineyard Cabernet blends (usually 90+% Cabernet Sauvignon) from three different years. The 2017 'Chloe Anne' is matured in 80% new oak barriques. This wine had a long ripening period. Blackcurrant and mulberry fruit sits on the frame of high quality French oak. Like all previous wines, this wine is elegant, but also quite substantial (95/++ points). The 2018 'Xavier' is a darker wine, yet more fruit forward. It has been aged in larger format oak. It has good depth and a satisfying finish. While different, it is equally appealing to the 2017 (95/++ points). The 2019 'Ruby Jane' has a similar flavour profile, and an elegant mouthfeel, but not the same intensity as the other two wines (93/++ points).  

  

Bannockburn Tasting

 Bannockburn from the Geelong region is a high quality producer famous for being the first winery to employ high density planting in the 1980s, and also for its legendary winemaker Gary Farr who during this time fashioned the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir along Burgundy principles (he worked at Domaine Dujac, where he completed 12 vintages).

The Serré vineyard

This tasting was focussed on the 2022 vintage, which was wet and cold. Unfortunately, it showed. The three Chardonnays lack fruit concentration and character. 

The Pinot Noirs fared a little better, but the light colour and lack of tannins are proof of the difficulties. The flagship, the 2022 Bannockburn Serré Pinot Noir is made from vines planted in 1984, based on the MV6 clone. The vineyard is planted to 8000 to 9000 vines per hectare. This is dense planting (see image), but not as dense as some Burgundy vineyards and some recent plantings in Australia. The fruit in this year tastes of strawberry and red cherry. There is some silkiness in the wine. Overall, it is quite soft (92/++ points).

The other single vineyard wine is the 2022 De La Terre. This vineyard was planted in the 2000s and is based on the 777 clone. Having younger fruit was actually advantageous in this year. The wine is a bit darker, with bigger red cherry fruit, and more crunchy (93/++ points).

The other Bannockburn story, less often told, is Shiraz. The wines are meant to be similar to Rhône style Shiraz. The first Shiraz tasted was the 2012 Shiraz. This wine is quite developed, with the blackberry fruit almost gone. Licorice and earthy flavours have taken over. This wine is elegant, but past its peak (91/0 points). 

The 2013 De La Roche Shiraz, a single vineyard wine, is very dark and a bit more lively. Mushroom flavours and some spice feature. I found the mouthfeel a bit sticky, but fine tannins balance this out (92/+ points).

Then came two big surprises. The 2003 Shiraz, from a warm vintage. This is a big wine, sunshine in the glass. There is an orange tint, but the wine is still lively. It is concentrated, but elegant and very balanced. I loved this wine, and I believe it is still available for purchase (95/+++).

But the star was the 1995 Serré. This was simply stunning. Orange in colour, this is still a lively wine at 28 years. Astonishing! It is very elegant and complex, with silky tannins and a long finish (97/+++). 

So what is the clincher here? Gary Farr left in 2004. He clearly made the 1995 Serré, and he would have had a hand in the 2003 Shiraz. Yes, 2022 was a difficult vintage, but is Bannockburn as good as it was under Gary Farr?

Rippon Pinot Noir Tasting

 Those of you who are familiar with Pinot Noir from Central Otago know that most of these wines are quite full-bodied with significant fruit weight, reflecting the many sunshine hours of the region, and despite it being the most southern wine region in the world. Felton Road wines would be the most sophisticated and consistent of this style. Rippon wines could not be more different. Felton Road and Rippon are like chalk and cheese as the saying goes.

The story of Rippon always starts with the location of the vineyard on Lake Wanaka. Many regard it as the most beautiful vineyard in the world. The vineyard is now 35 years old, and the soil is predominantly schist in character.

I had an opportunity to taste five of their Pinot Noirs today. The 2019 Pinot Noir is fashioned in a light style, with strawberry and red cherry notes, and some savoury backbone. The wine is finely balanced (92/++ points). The same wine from 2012 is still remarkably fresh. The wine is more complex than the younger version, with cherry and mushroom flavours, and an earthy and smoky character vying for your attention (93/++ points).

The  2019 Rippon Pinot Noir 'Emma's Block' comes from a block down by the lake facing eastward. It has slightly more intensity than the Estate Pinot Noir, but it is still quite a light wine. It is elegant, with silky tannins and delivers this ethereal feel, only Pinot Noir can. I enjoyed this wine a lot (95+++ points).

The brother if you like, is the 2019 'Tinkers Field'. It comes from a block next door, and facing north. The main difference to the previous wine is the angel of this block, therefore the different aspect. Black cherry, herbs and spices form this wine. It is darker and more intense, quite precise, but not as delicate as the 'Emma's Block' (94/++ points).

A special release is the 2019 Lolo's Block from the top part of the vineyard. It celebrates the 70th birthday of the Mother. This is a fruitier wine with red cherry flavours. It is a bit forward on the palate (92/+ points).

Overall, there is a clear style to these wines. They require contemplation and should not be overwhelmed by hearty food.  

Chateau de Coulaine Chinon Cabernet Franc

 I was contemplating what to pair with a pork fillet dish. I felt Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz would overwhelm this dish, and Pinot Noir and Grenache seemed too aromatic. Then I found the 2018 Chateau de Coulaine Chinon Cabernet Franc in my cellar.

This Loire wine is medium bodied. It is dark fruited and slightly spiced. The wine is not very complex, but very pleasant and balanced; a wine well made. It certainly did the job and is good value at about A$40/bottle.

Score: 91/++

Chiara Boschis Mosconi

 As regular readers of my blog would know, I have raved about the 2019 Barolos. To get a sense how the wines may develop, I yesterday opened a bottle from the equally lauded vintage of 2010, the 2010 Chiara Boschis Mosconi Barolo. Mosconi, in Monforte, is known for powerful wines. Let's see.

To start with the finish, this is a near perfect wine. The colour is dark, but a little orange tinge gives away the Nebbiolo grape.

On the palate, it starts with orange peel, but then black cherry takes over, cascading into savoury flavours with complex forest notes taking hold. This is quite a big, dark, masculine wine with firm chalky and dry tannins. But underneath this power is elegance and an acidity line holding the wine in perfect balance. The finish is long.

This wine is at the beginning of its sensible drinking window; still youthful, and no doubt with a couple of decades of great drinking ahead. The wine needs attention and also protein. The only quib I have, the third glass is starting to be a bit of an effort.

Score: 97/+++   

 

Mount Pleasant Tasting

 This tasting was a revelation! Mount Pleasant has experienced tumultuous times over the years. Finally, it went into administration and was sold to a Sydney hospitality group about 18 months ago. The first thing they did was turn the tasting room into a glitzy space. It works.

Understanding the offering is not easy. Semillon is straight forward; Elizabeth is the value offering, Lovedale, one of the best Semillon vineyards in the Hunter, the premium offering. Shiraz is more complicated. At the top sits Maurice O'Shea with best berries from the four old vine vineyards, then the single vineyard wines from the Old Hill and from the Old Paddock, then a number of others at the third tier.

1880 Vines at Old Hill

I will briefly comment on the four wines I liked best. The 2018 Mountain A Shiraz is sourced from the 1965 vines at the Rosehill vineyard. The wine has a light colour. Red berries and violets deliver a medium bodied, quite easy drinking wine. The wine is fruity and quite seductive with its elegant mouthfeel (93 points).

Label simplification

The 2017 Rosehill 1946 Vines Shiraz is a step up. Again, this is quite an open wine, with lovely violet and red berry flavours. There is more depth and complexity on the palate and a long finish. The superb elegance is the defining feature, though (96 points).

The 2019 Old Hill 1880 Vines Shiraz is a little different. It is dark fruited, with licorice and very elegant earthy, yet silky tannins. This is a very balanced, medium-bodied wine, where everything in the glass is at peace with itself. This is a classic Hunter Valley Shiraz (96 points). 

The 2021 Maurice O'Shea has great depth of flavour, mainly blackberry and mulberry. The tannins are very silky. This is not a blockbuster, just a beautiful, superbly elegant wine with a very long finish (97 points)  

The transition from the bigger wines previously, started before the new ownership, but it seems will be carried on. These wines offer a third way for Shiraz, not the full-bodied South Australian wines, not the spicy cold climate Shiraz, but red fruited, elegant and silky Hunter wines.

Big changes will be a reduction of vineyard sizes from 120ha to about 50ha of old vines, and a focus on premium wines. Sadly, a doubling of prices (it seems to me) has already been implemented.

Hunter Valley Woes

 A trip to the Hunter Valley a few days ago was my first for quite a few years. A number of discussions revealed serious problems in this wine growing region.

It probably starts with the climate. Nobody would start this up as a wine region today, a number of winemakers told me. It is quite hot in summer, although the peak is not as high as in South Australia. The diurnal range is low, about 15 degrees, with 20 degree nights, which means grapes continue to ripen at night. The summer humidity is high. As a result, pesticides are widely used. This has lead to very poor soil. Most vineyards show naked soil between rows, no doubt devoid of worms or nematodes. It is largely industrial farming, with wide spaces between vine rows and mechanical harvesting.

This has lead to average quality of wines, which was good enough, as the wineries largely cater to visitors, mostly from Sydney. On the other hand, it is difficult for them to get on restaurant wine lists, and even retail shelves in the cities. It is not just a marketing problem. Wine clubs are therefore heavily promoted. 

Because of all this, many young people have left the region. The average age of the winemaker is higher in the Hunter than in other regions. No wider scale innovation, as with new varieties in McLarenVale, or fresh Shiraz in the Barossa, or Grenache in both, is apparent. 

Of course, there are exceptions to all of these statements. I will comment on one of them in my next post.    

Dominio De Atauta La Mala

 The third and final single vineyard wine I tasted from this estate was the 2016 Dominio de Atauta La Mala Tempranillo. It is called La Mala (the bad one), because the vineyard delivered low yields to the grower. Now of course, it is the good one. The vineyard is 0.7ha of 130 year old vines. It is one of the highest in Ribera del Duero, at 950m, and facing north. There is only 70cm of poor sandy soil before the roots hit limestone rock.

This wine shows great clean purity. The intense sour cherry flavour delivers a steely mouthfeel. Acidity of this wine is high, as the minerality on the finish is accompanied by firm tannins. This profile clearly reflects the vineyard location, orientation, and soil. I find the flavours are losing out to acidity and tannin structure, but this is a matter of personal preference. The wine is well made. It will benefit from some serious decanting.

Score: 92/+ 

Taste Champagne

 

The Tyson Stelzer extravaganza, with a tasting of over 200 Champagnes, was back this year. Unfortunately, some leading Grower Champagnes were not included, so I decided to focus on the larger Champagne houses this time - maybe with some regret in hindsight.

Before you read my assessment, I should emphasize that I have a particular preference as far as Champagne is concerned. I like complexity on the palate, including some biscuit flavours. Interestingly, there has clearly been a trend to very fresh Champagne, more in the blanc de blancs style.

Bollinger has been a favourite of mine, with its high quality vineyards. La Grande Année 2014 impresses with its fine bubbles. It is soft and smooth, but more in the fresh style. The PN TX 17 2017 is 100% Pinot Noir with more depth, but not as precise. Pol Roger's Brut Reserve is always a go to Champagne. It has a beautiful balance and some toast - a bit broad. The Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2015 is longer and persistent on the palate with some biscuit notes.

Pierre Gimmonet has an excellent Champagne with its Special Club Grand Terroirs de Chardonnay 2015. The bubbles are small, delivering a satisfying and complex mouthfeel. In contrast, I found the 1er cru Blanc de Blancs 2017 less convincing. Billecart-Salmon was impressive with its Brut Reserve. It is quite a delicate Champagne, but with some depth and a long finish. The Extra Brut 2009 is even better, with very fine bubbles, a light but intense palate and a very dry finish. Charles Heidsieck just sneaked into the top group with the Blanc de Blancs NV and the Millésime Brut 2012/13. There are similarities to the Bollinger wines, with a bit less refinement.

Below these wines, and in the second group, I have Deutz, Louis Roederer (Crystal was not on offer), and Taittinger.

Tyrrell's Old Patch Shiraz

 

This is Tyrrell's flagship red wine, from probably the oldest Shiraz block in the Hunter Valley. Yesterday, I tasted the 2018 Tyrrell's Old Patch Shiraz. The wine has beautiful fruit purity. Plum, blueberry, and some emerging leather flavours ask for your attention. The fruit weight is medium. The wine delivers a wonderful and typical velvety mouthfeel. The wine is elegant with good intensity, and delivers a long finish on soft tannins.

Good quality Hunter Shiraz as described above offers an attractive third dimension to the powerful South Australian Shiraz and the spicy Victorian Shiraz.

Score: 96/+++

2023 Penfolds Collection

 What Penfolds presents in August is quite a collection these days: 25 wines in fact. In addition, there is a Chinese wine (not available in Australia yet), and some cheaper wines, such as the terribly named Max wines.

I taste nine of their new releases at a new event, Penfolds Transcend. The wines are narrated on screen by Steph Dutton, Penfold's red winemaker, who will succeed Peter Gago, in my view. It was efficient and worked well. 

The 2023 Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling is a good Riesling with white flower aromas, and citrus and melon flavours. The wine has good drive and a mineral finish, a well executed, typical Riesling from Eden Valley (92 points).

The 2022 Reserve Bin A from the Adelaide Hills can be funky and spectacular in some years. This is not one of those. Apple blossom notes on the nose are followed by apple custard and pear flavours. This is quite a soft, opulent wine with good length and a wet stone finish (92 points).

The 2022 Bin 23 Pinot Noir is now exclusively made from Tasmanian fruit. There are quite a few flavours on the palate like strawberry, dark and sour cherry, cranberry. The key feature, however, are the firm dry tannins. This wine is not yet quite in the Penfolds DNA (92 points).

Then we come to the 2021 Bin 28 Shiraz, Penfold's workhorse. This is a rich wine with plum and mocca flavours, a bit of five spice as well. The core of this robust wine is quite sweet and juicy (93 points).

The 2020 FWT (French Wine Trial) 585 is a Bordeaux blend, Cabernet Sauvignon dominant. Blackberry, chocolate and licorice are the dominant flavours. There are savoury notes as well. Overall, the mouthfeel is soft and a little lean: more Bordeaux than Penfolds (92 points). 

The Bin 704 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Valley is the much more powerful wine of course. It has excellent blackberry fruit purity. It has great balance between fruit and savoury flavours and finishes on fine grained tannins (94 points).

An absolute highlight was the 2021 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz. There are layers of dark berries; blueberry, blackberry, mulberry. Roasted meat flavours and spice add to complexity. The wine is seamless between the Cabernet and the Shiraz fruit, and fruit and savoury flavours. This dry wine,  is concentrated, yet can be enjoyed now. This is probably the best 389 I have ever tasted (97 points).  

The 2019 Grange is immediately recognizable. Blackberry and blue fruit, licorice, black olive and charcoal form the core. This is an intense wine with great depth, yet it is fresh and smooth. It is already drinkable. It will probably forever live in the shadow of the 2018, but it is a great follow-up (98 points).

After tasting Grange, the concentration tends to drop. Yet, the 2021 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon deserves attention. It is full-bodied, with concentrated blackcurrant and tobacco flavours. This is an elegant wine with an extra long finish (97 points).

Tasting a range of young Penfolds wines used to be hard work. Yet this was thoroughly pleasant. The oak influence has been dialed back, and freshness has increased. 

Chenin Blanc Tasting

 Chenin Blanc is grown in many countries, but only in France (Loire Valley) and in South Africa is it prominent. Originally, it is a grape used to make sweet or off-dry wines. However, as dry wines are so popular now, most of the time you can expect a dry Chenin Blanc. This tasting demonstrated the variety is a chameleon, or in other words, terroir and winemaking have significant influence and dominate any inherent grape features. Following are brief notes on five of the wines tasted.

2021 Savage 'Never been asked to dance'(South Africa): White flower on the nose, white peach and pineapple on the palate; an elegant, quite classic wine with high acidity and a long finish (93 points).

2020 Mullineux 'Iron Chenin'(South Africa): Melon flavours, honey, and a slightly oily character; a balanced wine with good length (93 points).

2015 Nicolas Joly 'Les Vieux Clos'. This is quite a funky wine, quite dark, copper colour, a little cloudy, tastes of cut-up apple, apricot; loses some flavour down the palate (91 points).

2015 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups 'Venise': This is a complex wine, still fresh, with apple and melon flavours; delivers a musky mouthfeel with a long and lifted finish (93 points).

2017 Domaine Guiberteau 'Clos de Carmes': white flower, great purity, elegant and refined with noticeable new oak influence; a bit Chardonnay like (95 points).  

Utopos New Releases

 When I traveled to the Barossa last year to visit some newer wineries, I missed Utopos. The visit was arranged, but owner and winemaker Kym Teusner fell sick. It was therefore a welcome opportunity to taste these wines in Sydney this week. 

The wines come from a vineyard on Roennfeldt Road in Marananga, previously leased out to Penfolds and next door to David Powell's property. It is a special plot, reaching to the top of the ironstone ridge at 300 meters. Three types of soils allow a lot of options. There is red-brown earth at the bottom, a strip of black biscay in the middle, and depleted top soil exposing ironstone and quartz in the top region. Most of the 30 acres under vine were planted in the early 1990s. Shiraz is planted to the East, Cabernet Sauvignon to the North, and Grenache and Mataro to the West. The average yield is a low 1t/acre. 

The 2021 Grenache is a pretty and fresh wine, tasting of red and black cherry, with a balanced structure and silky tannins. The finish is soft and long (94 points).

The 2021 Mataro/Shiraz/Grenache (40/30/30) is quite different, with the Mataro component quite prominent. Dark fruited and savoury, this wine delivers a firm grip (93 points).

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is quite savoury as well, with the ironstone soil making its presence felt. The wine is medium weight and quite smooth, well made, perhaps lacking some impact (92 points).

The 2021 Shiraz is dark, with blackberry, mulberry and earthy flavours. The wine is fresh and elegant, of medium concentration. It is perhaps a bit fruit forward (94 points).

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz (60/40) is blue and black fruited with a fresh mouthfeel. The tannins are fine and dry. This wine is a good example of the benefits of this famous, now slightly neglected blend (95 points).

The 2018 Shiraz, from this excellent vintage, has a very aromatic bouquet. This is a very pretty wine, black fruited and savoury, with silky tannins and a long finish (96 points). 

I was then shown the first wines from 2016. They were nowhere near the quality of the younger wines. Apparently a lot of work was required in the vineyard to get the vines up to scratch. 

If I were to generalize, Utopos wines are characterized by purity and the aromatics of the fruit, as well as savoury influences. On this site, there has been some discussion of the merits or otherwise of traditional ripe Barossa Shiraz on the one hand and leaner wines made by young winemakers on the other. Kym Teusner with Utopos wines seems to strike a happy medium.