I am not very familiar with Mt. Etna wines or Nerello Mascalese, its major indigenous grape variety. Last night I had an opportunity to taste a few of these wines. I will share some brief notes on the four most significant ones.
Girolamo Russo produces single vineyard wines from a number of sites. The 2021 Girolamo Russo Cru Caldera Sottana has a pale red colour. This is a gentle, not very concentrated, and elegant wine tasting of strawberry and red cherry. The tannins are fine grained, and the finish is medium (92 points). The 2021 Girolamo Russo Fuedo di Mezzo is made from pre-phylloxera over 100 year old vines. The fruit is darker than in the previous wine, with red and black cherry flavours. There is licorice as well. The tannins are a little coarse (91 points).
The 2019 Statella Pettinociarelle has more fruit weight, perhaps a larger share of Nerello Cappuccio. The black cherry flavours are en-capsuled in a tannic structure. The alcohol is noticeable on the relatively short finish (89 points). The 2018 Santa Maria la Nave Calmorossa is more elegant and rounded. There are some green notes in this wine, next to black cherry, and the mouthfeel is a little flat (89 points).
The cynic in me asks the question: why is Nerello Mascalese not grown elsewhere? Maybe my reviews above provide the answer. These relatively light red wines are cleverly marketed as sitting between Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo. But do they live up to these lofty grape varieties? I think not. The structure is simply not there. And when the wines get beefed up they can become unbalanced and alcoholic. Ok, I am basing this assessment on a small sample (but I tasted additional wines).
