Woodlands Tasting

 Woodlands brands can be very confusing, but there is actually quite a simple logic. The original vineyard, now 50 years old, is the Woodlands vineyard or Caves Rd. vineyard. It is the source of the 'Margaret' and the single vineyard Cabernet blend. The second vineyard is the Woodlands Brook or Puzey Rd. vineyard, some 2km away, purchased in 2007. This is the source of Cabernet Franc and younger Cabernet Sauvignon.

All wines are named after family members, the confusing bit is that the single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon has a different name every year. Will they ever run out of names?

The Home Block

The 2021 'Emily' is Cabernet Franc based. The vineyard is south facing, based on fine clay. As a result, this wine is light- to medium-bodied and very pretty. Black cherry is the dominant flavour of this elegant, slightly spiced wine. It is very well made, very charming, and I liked it a lot (93/+++ points). The 2018 Clementine, from the same vineyard is a Cabernet/Merlot. It is darker, still only medium-bodied. The tannins are firmer, but there is a bit of a hole on the mid palate, despite the Merlot component (92/++ points).

The Caves Rd. vineyard is north facing. The wines from here, including the core 'Margaret' are more concentrated. The 2018 'Margaret' is a Cabernet/Merlot matured in 40% new oak. It is noticeably more intense than the previous wine, but still quite elegant (93/++ points).

I tasted three single vineyard Cabernet blends (usually 90+% Cabernet Sauvignon) from three different years. The 2017 'Chloe Anne' is matured in 80% new oak barriques. This wine had a long ripening period. Blackcurrant and mulberry fruit sits on the frame of high quality French oak. Like all previous wines, this wine is elegant, but also quite substantial (95/++ points). The 2018 'Xavier' is a darker wine, yet more fruit forward. It has been aged in larger format oak. It has good depth and a satisfying finish. While different, it is equally appealing to the 2017 (95/++ points). The 2019 'Ruby Jane' has a similar flavour profile, and an elegant mouthfeel, but not the same intensity as the other two wines (93/++ points).  

  

Chateau de Coulaine Chinon Cabernet Franc

 I was contemplating what to pair with a pork fillet dish. I felt Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz would overwhelm this dish, and Pinot Noir and Grenache seemed too aromatic. Then I found the 2018 Chateau de Coulaine Chinon Cabernet Franc in my cellar.

This Loire wine is medium bodied. It is dark fruited and slightly spiced. The wine is not very complex, but very pleasant and balanced; a wine well made. It certainly did the job and is good value at about A$40/bottle.

Score: 91/++

Mount Mary Réflexion

A few years ago, Mount Mary did something bold. Mount Mary is one of a few Australian wineries which only wants to produce super premium quality at super premium prices. Then it was decided to bring out a new wine, a seldom done straight Cabernet Franc, and at half or less the usual price point. Risky, trashing the brand? Let's find out.

The 2017 Mount Mary Réflexion from relatively young vines has a ruby colour of medium intensity. It is fruity on the nose, with aromas of violets.

On the palate, varietal raspberry and red currant flavours stand out. They are not sweet, and accompanied by spices, cedar and acidity. There is good energy, driving this medium-bodied wine down the palate.

This wine is a perfectly serious red wine for the summer months. The tannins are quite light, and overall this wine delivers finesse with quite a persistent finish.

The Réflexion stands separate in a crowded Australian wine market, and this can only be a good thing.

Score: 94/++

Bodega Garzon

Bodega Garzon is by far the largest Uruguayan winery with 200ha of vineyards, and with the most serious international ambitions. It is owned by a billionaire, and it shows. The vineyards are beautifully manicured and the buildings, opened in 2016, spectacular. In many ways, it reminds me of Craggy Range in New Zealand. Somebody comes in with a bold plan and the means to execute it. It is also an interesting example of what can be achieved with vines much less than 20 years old. Mr. Antonini of Italy has been a consultant for this project and is often involved in the selection and blending process.

Export manager Cecilia Curi and winemaker German Bruzzone take me through the tasting.

White wine is focussed on Albarino. The 2018 Reserve is clean, fresh, floral and fruity (88 points).The 2018 Albarino Single Vineyard is a step up. This wine is matured in tulips (eggs). 10,000 bottles are made. It has more intensity, more body and an oily texture. The mouthfeel is round and pleasing and there is vibrant energy through to the back palate (92 points). 

The 2017 Pinot Noir Single Vineyard is of a soft style, with strawberry flavours dominant. It is a bit fruity for my taste (89 points). Can the combination of young fruit, 5000 plants/ha and 6-7t/ha yield really create a world class Pinot Noir? The 2017 Cabernet Franc Reserva has an attractive bouquet. This is a delicate wine, tasting of blue fruit, with silky tannins (92 points). The 2017 Marselan Reserva, a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, is an unknown to me. It has a deep purple colour, and is quite intense, but I find the flavour profile a bit simple. Minerality and acidity dominate the back palate (88 points).

After this, we come to the top bracket. The 2017 Tannat Reserva was picked quite late, due to the cooler conditions. The soil profile of porous granite worked well in this not so dry year. Flavours of plum and redcurrant deliver a good mouthfeel. The alcohol of 14.5% is well integrated. This is an elegant wine, with firm tannins which do not overwhelm (93 points).

My favorite Uruguayan Tannat turns out to be the 2017 Tannat Single Vineyard. It comes from a cool block in the vineyard. It has more depth and elegance than the Reserva, with black fruits dominating. This is a full-bodied wine at 14.5% alcohol, but it is neither fat nor hot on the palate. The mouthfeel is attractive, as the wine leads to firm tannins and minerality on the finish. This is a well balanced wine with a good future (94 points).

The top wine in the portfolio is the 2016 Balasto, referring to the porous granite soil in the vineyard. This wine is a blend of 45% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Franc, 18% Petit Verdot, and 12% Marselan. This wine has been matured in large barrels of untoasted French oak for 20 months. The Cabernet Franc provides welcome freshness to this very elegant wine. The flavours are of black fruits and the Tannat component delivers firm tannins. The grape varieties are well integrated; a wine of substance (95 points).

Bodega Garzon shows fantastic promise, given the young vines of this winery. It is interesting to note that this winery has chosen a Tannat blend as its signature wine. While I enjoyed the 100% single vineyard Tannat, it points to the fact that a blend can add some more interest and complexity to this difficult variety.

El Enemigo Tasting

El Enemigo is the side project of Alejandro Vigil, the winemaker of Catena Zapata. Adrianna Zapata,     the youngest daughter of Nicolas Zapata, is an equal shareholder. She lives in London, but it was probably a condition to allow this project to go ahead. I had an opportunity to taste the whole range of their wines. And what a world-class tasting it was. Alejandro shows his excitement about these wines; he can now do what he wants, not limited by the ‘corporate’ Catena Zapata. And what he wants is to focus on Cabernet Franc. There is Malbec, of course, but the real excitement is about Cabernet Franc. There is a Chardonnay in the range, and then two lines, El Enemigo and Gran El Enemigo.

The Chardonnay, from 2016, is the first big surprise. This stone fruit based wine has nutty characters as well and is very complex, while maintaining freshness, and this for $25/bottle (95 points).

The El Enemigo range includes a Shiraz/Viognier, a Malbec, a Cabernet Franc and a Bonarda, all from 2014. These wines show individual varieties very well (91-94 points), with the Cabernet Franc the highlight. It tastes of blue fruits, spices and soft tannins; no greenness here, which often characterizes 100% Cabernet Franc.

The Gran El Enemigo range comes from higher altitude vineyards in the Uco Valley, which are planted at a density of 10,000 to 12,000 plants per ha. The blend of five Bordeaux varieties is an easy drinking style. The next four wines are all single vineyard Cabernet Franc (with a bit of Malbec thrown in). The Agrelo is from 930m altitude and quite soft in style. 

The last three wines are terrific. The Chacayes is fresh and elegant, with a fine spice mix and intense flavours (94 points). The El Chepillo is my favourite. It hits the palate with a great punch - a racy wine of superb intensity and depth, yet fresh (97 points). 

The last wine is the only wine from 2013, the  Gualltalary. There is a reason for this. This is the first pure Cabernet Franc to ever receive 100 points from Robert Parker. I think it is the only Mendoza wine to ever receive 100 points from him. This wine is very composed and elegant, with a long finish, but it is not a 100 pointer (96 points). The El Chepillo has more character, and when I later spoke with Alejandro, he said the El Chepillo was his preferred wine.

This was an outstanding tasting, showcasing the incredible talents of Alejandro Vigil. I have never known that 100% Cabernet Franc could taste this good. It can be a complete wine. If you come across these wines, you must try them.

Orange Wineries, Day 2

Bloodwood vineyards; different aspects add complexity

I was quite pleased with my experiences on day 1. Some very serious and interesting winemakers there. Today, it is back to the beginnings.

My first stop is at Bloodwood, where Stephen Doyle started over 30 years ago. He offers a broad range of wines, like many wineries in Orange. The 2011 Schubert Chardonnay was named such, as Stephen was working in the vineyard on the day Max Schubert died. This wine is whole-bunch pressed and matured in 100% new oak. Despite this, it is a Chablis style wine with good acidity and structure. This wine can be cellared for some time (92 points). The 2013 Chardonnay is more a tank-style wine. It tastes of apple and peach and is a little broad (89 points). The 2013 Malbec/Cabernet Franc is similarly fruity (89 points). The 2014 Cabernet Franc is a highlight. This wine has a beautiful ruby colour. The flavours include an interesting mix of floral and spice. This wine is balanced with good intensity, as the berries were very small. The wine finishes smooth and dry (93 points). What is it about Cabernet Franc in Orange? The 2005 Maurice is a blend of the best berries of the year. Grape varieties and blends change from year to year. Redcurrant flavours dominate, there is mocca as well and good acidity on the finish (92 points).

The second stop is at Canobolas-Smith. This is another of the original wineries, and it probably put the area on the map, initially. Murray Smith is the long standing winemaker. However, this visit was quite depressing. He now makes two wines only, and at very small volumes. I tried Chardonnays from 2004, 2008 and 2012. They were totally different from each other. Murray says he wants vintage variation to shine through, but he is also changing the wine treatment drastically from year to year. One is fruity, the other earthy and tart, one has malo, the other has not. Yes, the wines can age, but not very gracefully (87-89 points). The Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Shiraz is called Alchemy (doesn't this say all?). I tasted the 2008, 2012, and 2013 vintages. The 2008 was the best example, a ripe wine with blackberry flavours, but also some minty/herb underripe character. The tannins were a bit softer than in the other wines (88-89 points).

My final stop is at Printhie, which is some 35km outside of Orange. This is a six year old winery and a totally different scenario from the last one. Dave Swift is full of optimism. The first leg of its business is Sparkling. They have forged a relationship with a successful grower Champagne producer and it shows. Their Brut Sparkling has a beautiful yeast character. A number of premium Sparklings are under development. The second part are the white wines, which come from the same high altitude vineyard Ross Hill uses. The 2013 MCC Sauvignon Blanc is interesting, with a creamy flavour and more weight than normal, as a result of using wild yeast, old oak and malolactic fermentation (90 points). The really strong whites are the Chardonnays, which are picked early. The 2012 MCC Chardonnay uses wild ferment directly to barrel. It is complex, as a result of varied treatments: 30-40% malo, 30% new oak. The fruit is citrus and lime, with well integrated acidity. A very modern Chardonnay version (93 points). Then there is the 2012 Super Duper (not sure about the name). This wine has more power, but is still elegant. Fruit is more in the ripe stone fruit spectrum, but the wine still has good acidity (94 points). The red wines come from their home vineyards at lower altitude (620 meters). I was less impressed with the Merlot and Cabernet/Shiraz, but the straight Shiraz were good. The 2012 MCC Shiraz is elegant, with savoury and slightly herbal flavours, backed by fine grained tannins (92 points). The 2012 Super Duper Syrah is finer boned and more elegant, but I am not sure that there is enough mouthfeel in this wine in a couple of years (93 points). Also, these Super Duper wines are overpriced.

My conclusion from this trip is that Orange is a region of promise. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir can be great from high altitude vineyards, whereas reds need to be grown at lower levels. Cabernet Franc impressed me, and Shiraz can do well, too.  

Orange Wineries, Day 1

de Salis vineyard

I spent two days in the Orange district to explore and better understand this relatively new and diverse wine region. The vineyards here are at high altitude, between 600 and 1100 meters. Pretty much every popular grape in the book is grown here: from aromatic whites to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Bordeaux blends, Shiraz, 'new' varieties, such as Vermentino, Arneis, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Barbera, the list goes on. What is it all about?

My first stop is Philip Shaw. He is perhaps the best known proponent of the district today. His premium range is called the 'numbers' range. The numbers have no particular logic. They refer to birthdays, lucky numbers etc. I tried the most recent Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz in this range. Overall, the results were disappointing. I did not find much interest in these wines. These wines lacked depth and structure (85 to 89 points). There were certainly shades of his commercial past (Rosemount, Southcorp) in these wines His most famous wine, the #11 Chardonnay, of which I tasted 2014, had reasonable stonefruit, but it was very young, with oak being quite prominent and the finish quite short. I was not off to a good start.

Thankfully, things changed when I arrived at my second stop, Ross Hill. Phil Kerney, the winemaker, has certainly made his mark here, and he is not shy to tell you about it. There is a style which cuts across the wines. The key characteristic is the wild yeast fermentation directly into barrel. The 2014 white wines are of high quality. The Sauvignon Blanc is quite lean, is based on whole bunches and does not taste like anything from New Zealand. This is a delicate wine, made in the Loire style, with a focus on texture, and made to last (93 points). The Pinot Gris is lean also, with a good balance between the pear fruit and acidity (91 points). The (very young) Chardonnay is more tricky. There is a fair bit of sulphur covering the grapefruit and nutty flavours, but I think it will develop nicely (92 points). The fruit for these wines is grown at the winery vineyard, more than 900 meters in elevation. The red wines come from a lower lying vineyard, just over 600 meters. Still, I found the 2013 Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz lacking in depth, while the structures were strong (88-90 points). The best of the red wines was the 2012 Cabernet Franc, which is a focus at Ross Hill. This wine, with a purple colour, had a huge aroma. The flavours were intense and unusual, mainly like provancale herbs, in particular lavender and rosemary. There was good depth in this wine and a balanced texture (93 points).

The third winery of the day was De Salis. The vineyard here is over 1050 meters high, one of the highest in Australia, with beautiful views across the valley. Most of the white wines (Fume Blanc and Chardonnay) did not fully convince me, but the 2013 Blue Label Chardonnay hit the spot. This is like a reserve wine, 100% new oak, with more intensity and power. The flavour spectrum is stone and poached fruit, and the taste is a bit oily as well (93 points). The focus of De Salis, however, is Pinot Noir. The intention is to make quite feminine wines, suited to the cool climate. Burgundy clearly is the model. I tried five Pinot Noirs, and three in particular were outstanding. The two based on the MV6 clone were darker, with sour cherry flavours, well structured, but not totally harmonious (90/91 points). The two based on the Dijon clones (the Lofty Pinot Noirs) were more in the strawberry spectrum spectrum, finer and quite elegant. In particular the 2013 had great balance and a smooth finish (94 points). The 2013 Blue Label Pinot Noir was a bit different. It was ethereal, not weighted, similar to the last two, but also had earthy and truffle flavours; quite a complex wine (94 points). The Bordeaux reds have a play on using stems, but also Saint Emillon. They are called St Em M (for Merlot) and St Em F (for Cabernet Franc), named after the dominant component in the blend. These are Bordeaux blends for Pinot Noir drinkers, quite light bodied, but with an attractive texture. There was also a 100% light and elegant Cabernet Franc. These were from the 2012 vintage, which was quite cool in Orange (all 92 points). De Salis has developed this style based on texture and an ethereal feel - best suited to the Pinot Noirs.

Craggy Range Sophia

A few posts ago, I disagreed with most reviewers about the merits of the 2007 Te Mata Coleraine and claimed that Craggy Range is now the pre-eminent red wine producer of New Zealand. Today, I had the opportunity to taste the 2007 Craggy Range Sophia, which is a Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend, probably closest to the Coleraine in terms of grape composition.

This wine is grown on the famous Gimblett Gravels and it shows. This is a big wine with strong upfront red- and blackcurrant flavours. The wine has great mouthfeel and the smooth aspects of the Merlot get overtaken by the Cabernet Franc as the wine moves towards the back palate. The wine finishes with strong, but controlled tannins.

The wine is drinkable now, but will develop more complexity over time. This is a bold statement and I feel the wine incorporates all the ripeness the sun and special terroir can give it. The alcohol is 14.5% and might be too big for some, but I feel the fruit can carry it.

Cullen - 2007 Releases

When you are about to taste the wines of one of Australia's most highly acclaimed wineries from one of the best vintages recorded, expectations are very high. And the tasting did not disappoint, although it left me somewhat uneasy in some respects. Let us look at the individual wines first.

The 2007 Kevin John Chardonnay produced the weirdest Australian Chardonnay tasting experience I can remember. It had a very strong aroma and actually smelled of pot, I kid you not. Many flavours of grass, earth, dung etc. You could not help but sense that the biodynamics applied at Cullen have had a major influence here and that the soil components have jumped straight into the glass. The flavours were more traditional: citrus dominated, but also grapefruit. The wine seemed a bit easy and straight forward (somebody said: like lemon juice), but the wine had a very impressive and long finish. This wine clearly needs more time.

Then came the two mid-priced reds. The 2007 Cullen Mangan and the 2007 Cullen Cabernet Merlot. The Mangan is a predominant Malbec/Petit Verdot blend. The wine has violet colour, a blackcurrant flavour, and is quite spicy and tannic. There is strong varietal expression, but a slightly harsh mouthfeel. The Cabernet/Merlot is the smoother wine, good, but not exceptional fruit expression: a nice, easy drinking style.

On to the main event: The 2007 Cullen Diana Madeline. This wine is the biggest Cabernet/Merlot I can recall coming from Cullen ( it includes also small percentages of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot). The colour is very black and the tannins are strong, but fine grained. The flavours are very deep and complex: predominantly blackcurrant, but also mulberry and coffee. The wine fills out nicely through the Merlot component and has a very long, powerful finish. This wine is way too young to be enjoyed now, but I predict a very long life ahead, maybe 30 years. It is a sensational achievement.

Overall, the 2007 vintage may just deliver what it promised. Here is my issue: the biodynamics are increasingly showing an influence: the wines are more full flavoured than before, and in an effort to produce elegant wines, there is a risk that too much edgyness is shaved off the wines. Are they too polished? (I am talking about the reds here) . However, this is just a question. I remain very impressed with Vanya Cullen's wines.