Savaterre Frère Cadet Chardonnay

 The 2023 Savaterre Frère Cadet Chardonnay is the second label of Savaterre, but it is not an entry level wine like, for example, the Prelude of Leeuwin Estate. Nor is the price suggesting so.

The fruit comes from a vineyard close to the home block. The wine has a golden colour, with stone fruit aromas.

On the palate, there is white peach, apricots, marzipan, and hazelnut flavours. The wine has good depth of flavour and is very elegant. The oak integration is excellent. The acidity is mild, but enough to drive the wine down the palate.

This is an excellent modern Chardonnay with enough complexity to keep it interesting.

Score: 95/+++

Shaw + Smith Lenswood Chardonnay

 I talked recently about the high quality of value priced Australian Chardonnays. This is not where the current Australian Chardonnay story ends. The premium Chardonnays can be of outstanding quality as well. One such example is the 2023 Shaw + Smith Lenswood Chardonnay of the Adelaide Hills.

2023 was a cold and wet vintage, not dissimilar to 2011. 2011 delivered very good white wines, though. And the same seems to happen with 2023 white wines. The standard and very good Shaw + Smith Chardonnay is called M3. It sits in the middle between the richer and lean styles. The 2023 Shaw + Smith Lenswood Chardonnay comes from special high altitude parcels of this vineyard. This wine sits closer to the leaner end, and what a wine it is.

The flavours are citrus, pear and ginger, and the acidity is quite high. What impresses is the incredible energy and drive of this wine. The wine is intense, steely and highly strung, with terrific precision. It is flinty and has a long mineral finish. It would not have to hide behind Burgundy Grand Cru.

Some Adelaide Hills Chardonnay can be truly exceptional, think Petaluma Piccadilly Chardonnay or Penfolds Bin A Chardonnay as well. As an aside, has Henschke ever produced a white wine close to this quality from their Lenswood vineyard?

Score: 97/+++ 

Three Value Chardonnays

 It is not a secret that the quality of moderately priced Australian Chardonnays has gone up dramatically in the last few years. They are now perhaps the best value proposition in the world. This is in particular true for Chardonnays from the Yarra Valley. Here are three I recently tried.

The first is the 2021 Wheeler Electric Lines Chardonnay. This is the first time I come across this producer, and I am very impressed. This fresh wine of citrus flavours is quite tight and linear in a modern style. The wine has good depth and bright acidity. There is minerality on the pretty long finish, like a classy Chablis.

Score: 94/+++

The 2024 Hoddles Creek Chardonnay is much better known. This wine  is broader and quite fruity, and fills the mouth with its citrus and pear flavours, and ends nicely on a mineral finish. It is very young now, and would be a better drink in a year's time.

Score: 90/+

The 2024 Giant Steps Chardonnay is a little superior, in my opinion. It does have intensity of citrus and stone fruits, but matches this with a good drive down the palate. This is a smooth wine with a crisp finish, but not as good value as the other two.

Score: 92/++

TOP NSW Wines

 Wines from New South Wales do not have a great reputation. I do not know if it is the arrogance of Sydneysiders, or what is causing it, but a recent tasting of premium NSW wines demonstrated they can mix it with the best. I will comment briefly on five wines in this tasting.

The first two wines are from Orange, a cool climate region, which produces increasingly exciting wines. The 2022 Canobolas Chardonnay is citrus and floral flavoured. It is a very elegant wine. It does not undergo malolactic fermentation, and is matured in oak. The vineyard slopes down the mountain of Mt. Canobolas, and this translates into an energetic wine with a mineral finish. This wine is absolutely first class (94 points).

The 2023 ChaLou 'Quixotic' Reserve Pinot Noir is equally impressive. This is the first Reserve Pinot Noir from this producer. The wine is obviously very young at this point and quite restraint. The grapes are grown on volcanic soil. They deliver an appealing blend of black cherry and mulberry fruit and some savoury characteristics. The finish is caressing and long (94 points).

Then came the known big guns. The 2019 Tyrrells Old Patch Shiraz was most impressive. It comes from the oldest vineyard in NSW, planted in 1867. This is a medium bodied wine with great purity of  red fruits. The wine has a velvety texture and a piercing drive. The wine is elegant and powerful at the same time. The excellent balance between fruit, acidity, and tannins points to a long future (97 points).

Tasting the 2009 Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier straight after, was a tough assignment. This is quite a different wine - softer and fruitier, with a bigger mouthfeel, and some five spice. It was quite harmonious at 15 years of age (95 points).

The 2000 Lake's Folly Cabernet Blend from Magnum was equally fresh, after 24 years. What an achievement! The vineyard is on a unique plot in the Hunter Valley, red clay over limestone. The wine is red fruited with a characteristic earthy flavour. The beautifully structured palate delivers great concentration of fruit and a long finish (97 points).     

 

Barossa Valley, Part 2

 Two more wineries to visit on this short trip to the Barossa; Phase III Wines and Alkina.

The name Phase III refers to the third stage of Ben Kelley's life, when he decided to move to the Barossa to grow truffles, and then wine. However, he has been associated with wine for a long time and along the way got to know Fraser McKinley, the winemaker of Sami-Odi fame. His influence is obvious in a number of ways, for example the port shaped bottles and including wine from more than one vintage.

Ben is more playful, though; grabs fruit from wherever he can, adds Pinot to Shiraz, and generally behaves like a kid in a candy store (not in a bad way). His volume of his key wine, Dero (Australian slang for 'I am nobody') is 250 cases.

I also tasted some more experimental wines. The 2022 Phase III Semillon is an attractive wine. It is barrel fermented and richer and rounder than a young Hunter Valley wine. Yet it is a refreshing wine at 10.5% alcohol with crisp citrus flavours (92 points). The 2023 Phase III Chardonnay comes from High Eden, near Mountadam. The wine has whole bunch and tastes of tropical fruit and spices with a nice acidic backbone. The wine also includes four buckets of frontignac. I did not notice it, but it may have added complexity (92 points).

There was also a 2021 whole bunch Pinot Noir. It was robust and powerful, with red fruits dominating, and a musky and savoury backbone. It was interesting, but did not work too well (86 points).

Then I tried the 2023 Phase III Home Block Shiraz. Ben has now planted three small vineyards, which over time presumably will replace bought fruit. The fruit in this wine comes from 3 (!) year old vines. This seems crazy, and it does not work too well. The fruit is picked early. The wine is fruity, despite 100% whole bunch and one of the lowest alcohol Shirazes in the valley at 12.2% (88 points).

Then we come to the 2023 Phase III Devo, the main wine. The fruit comes from something like 10 vineyards, including two Hoffmann blocks. The bottle is in a bag, in reference to his earlier work in a bottle shop. The philosophy is to pick early and whole bunch to soften the tannins. He wants to make wine to be drunk early. The wine shows pleasant red and black fruit, but no sweetness. The structure is solid (93 points).

I would not be surprised if something stunning will come from this producer one day.  

The final stop is at Alkina. The contrast could not be starker. Serious money has gone into this business. The vineyards around the property have been meticulously analysed, and divided by soil type. This is not unusual in many parts of the world, but not common to this detail in the Barossa Valley. The different plots are called polygons, meaning an area made up of line segments. The focus of Alkina is Grenache and Shiraz. It will be interesting to compare these wines to the McLaren Vale tasted wines.

The first Grenache based wine tasted is a 2024 Alkina Rosé. The wine is matured 50% in stainless steel, 50% in concrete. The wine is light, with beautiful aromatic flower scents, and clean raspberry flavours (93 points).

The entry level Grenache was the 2023 Alkina Kin Grenache. It is a blend from different plots of limestone and schist soil. 100% whole bunch was used, and the wine was matured in 100% concrete, to bring out the fresh fruit. The wine is red fruited and quite soft - an easy drinking wine (92 points).

A big step-up were the two polygon Grenaches, from 2022, a cool vintage. The 2022 Alkina Polygon 3 Grenache comes from a plot of limestone and schist soil. This is an intense and super elegant wine, majestic comes to mind. The acidity is present, but beaten by the weight of the fruit. The silky tannins lead to a very satisfying finish - a superb wine (96 points).

The 2022 Alkina Polygon 5 Grenache comes from heavier soil, fractured schist and clay. And this is reflected in the wine. This wine is bigger, quite fiery. This more savoury wine has a great structure pointing to a long life ahead (96 points).

These two wines were certainly highlights of my week in South Australia. They are superbly crafted, and showing off the different soil profiles really well. 

Then came the Shiraz flight. The 2023 Alkina Birdsong Shiraz is matured in concrete to showcase the pristine red and black fruit. There is elegance and power in this wine, but the wine is not as focused as some (92 points).

The 2022 Alkina Polygon 1 Shiraz comes from a tiny plot of quartzite and schist soil. The colour is very dark, and the nose is big. This is a fiery, but quite dense wine with a long finish. Attractive mulberry flavours stand out (95 points).

And then came a surprise, the new 2023 Alkina Striato. I do not know much about this wine. It was quite a contrast to the Polygon 1. The wine is lighter, lively and red fruited. It has great balance and finishes with firm, but fine grained tannins (95 points).

As previously, this was an excellent tasting experience. Some of the Alkina wines are superb. With its scientific soil approach, could Alkina become an icon Barossa winery? There is one big problem: these polygons are tiny plots, and the resulting wine is made in small volumes. It will simply not be available to many people. This however, should be a criterion for an icon winery. However, if you are lucky enough to get access to some of these wines, enjoy!

This week in South Australia had a strong focus on Grenache. A theory is emerging. The premium Grenaches from Blewitt Springs and Clarendon tend to be fresh and red fruited. Their ph is between 3.0 and 3.35, indicating high acidity. The Grenaches from Alkina have a ph of close to 3.6, indicating lower acidity, largely a function of the warmer climate. These wines still have some freshness, but fruit intensity and some dark fruit flavours are also characteristic. So it seems ph levels can predict key components of the Grenache flavour.

 

  

Barossa Valley, Part 1

 Then on to the Barossa, where I wanted to taste the 'new' or 'alternative' Barossa. My first stop is at Agricola in the Eden Valley. This is a small operation (700 cases per year) by Callum Powell, the son of ex-Torbreck winemaker David Powell. His wines are nothing like Torbreck, though.

Callum's wines have been well received and are sold out, but he was kind enough to open two bottles for me. One of the key features of his Shiraz winemaking is the use of 100% whole bunch in the ferment. Let's see how this goes. He also does not do any manipulation, say adding acid etc.

The first wine is the 2023 Agricola DWxHV Shiraz. DW stands for Dallwitz, HV for Hutton Vale. So this is a blend of fruit from the famous Hoffmann managed vineyard in Ebenezer and Eden Valley. The wine is fresh and very savoury and drinks well. I took the bottle with me, and found on day two that more green elements emerged. Using 100% whole bunch is brave in a cool vintage such as 2023, but the fruit from the warm Ebenezer area made it work, although not perfect (92 points).

The second wine, the 2023 Agricola Ebenezer Shiraz comes from old Dallwitz and Dimchurch fruit (not the oldest blocks). The wine is bright, and tastes of red skinned fruit, licorice, and mocca. This is also a fresh wine, a little bit herbal. There is no sweetness in these wines and alcohol is about 13.9% (92 points).

I found these wines interesting. In warmer vintages and with more experience, they could become outstanding.

My second visit is to Ollin, a new winery only started in February of this year.  However, Jaysen Collins, the winemaker, is very experienced, probably best known for the work at Massena together with Dan Standish.

The surprise here was that I liked the white wines better than the reds. The 2022 Ollin Chenin Blanc spent 24 months on lees, yet the colour was still bright. This was a refreshing dry field blend with 13.5% alcohol (92 points). The 2022 Ollin Chardonnay was my wine of the tasting. It spent 12 months on lees and was matured in old French barrels. Gentle citrus flavours dominate in this textural wine (93 points). I also liked the 2023 Ollin Rosé from Grenache fruit. 12 months on lees and barrel fermented, this is made in the Provence style - pale, but with flavour (92 points). 

I was not too impressed with the red wines. The 2022 Balto Grenache from Standish fruit was hand stomped. It is meant for early drinking, but I found fruit and earthy components not well integrated (86 points). The 2022 Ollin Grenache is more serious. It comes from 160 year old fruit in the Eden Valley. There is a lot of spice on the palate. The wine is quite astringent and acidic (87 points). The 2022 Ollin Shiraz, from Kalleske fruit, is a slightly better wine. It is fresh, red fruited, but also quite astringent (89 points).

Elanto Vineyard

 There are not many high density projects in Australia. The new Bindi vineyards and Place of Changing Winds are perhaps the most prominent. Now we have the first wines from a new, very ambitious project. It is called Elanto Vineyard on the Mornington Peninsula, managed by Sandro Mosele, the former winemaker of Kooyong.

As you can see, it is meticulously planted (in 2018) in eight blocks with different slopes and sun exposure. Interestingly, the soil is the same, namely red volcano. At Kooyong, Sandro planted on different soils, and he found this the most promising.

The first wines from 2023 are now available. I found the Chardonnay had a promising fruit profile, but was still lacking some definition. The Pinot Noir was the better wine, with good complexity, red fruits and savoury underbrush characteristics. Making great wine takes a lot of time and patience. Apparently the 2024 wines are a step up. This will be a producer to watch. 

Langton's Classification Tasting, Part 1

 This tasting of the best Australian wines according to Langton's 'empirical' data only happens once every five years or so. It is a big affair, as 100 wines are available for tasting. I attended it yesterday in Sydney.

The event was well organized, but still, one had to navigate quite a big crowd. There was not enough time to take detailed notes, as I tasted 30+ wines. It became obvious that there were hardly any bad wines; so it came down to personal preferences. In this post I will comment on the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs I tasted. The next post will cover Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon and blends.

I did not taste all wines in these categories, because I either knew them quite well or was not interested, So for example in Chardonnay, I did not taste Penfolds Yattarna and Giaconda Chardonnay.

Of the Chardonnays I tasted, the perhaps surprising, but not altogether surprising favorite was the 2018 Penfolds Reserve Bin A Chardonnay. This wine seems to be a bit less restricted by the house style. It is a bit funkier, still very fresh, with concentrated citrus and grapefruit flavours, and a creamy texture and great line. World-class! 

Not far behind was the 2021 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay. A bit understated, yet powerful, with beautiful lime and white peach fruit and great drive.

The 864 Oakridge Chardonnay was very clean, but a bit oaky (pardon the pun). And the Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay came last, showing less freshness and vibrancy (still a good wine).

On the Pinot Noir front, it was essentially a battle between Bass Phillip and Bindi. Both wineries had two wines in the line-up. The very rare 2018 Bass Phillip Reserve Pinot Noir was exquisite - a wine of elegance and poise, silky tannins and a long finish.

The Bindi wines showed a clear winery style of delicacy and finesse. The 2021 Bindi Block 5 Pinot Noir impressed with lifted aromas and a very smooth palate. The Bindi Original Vineyard Pinot Noir was also very balanced and smooth - not much between these two.

The 2022 Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir was quite different - a result of the new ownership? This was a very savoury and peppery style; quite unusual for an Australian Pinot Noir, and not as poised as the previous three wines. Finally, the 2022 Main Ridge Half Acre could not outperform its tough competition. The owner described the vintage as tough, and the wine, while quite aromatic, fell a bit short on the finish.

While this went close to expectations, part 2 will show some real surprises.   

Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay Mini Vertical

 Sorry, I have not posted for a while, as I have mainly been drinking wine I already reviewed, but I experienced a mini vertical of the Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay, which is worth while talking about.

There are not many Australian Chardonnays which age well, but the Leeuwin Art Series is one. This tasting included the years 2020, 2013, and 1999.

The 2020 Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay is pale in colour. It is quite restrained on the nose. On the palate, many flavours reveal themselves: white flower, white peach, lemon curd, white melon, flint, and marzipan. Very high quality French oak is noticeable. The wine is very focused, and reveals its intensity after some time in the glass. Very complex and long on the finish (97 points).

The 2013 Chardonnay is light gold in colour. Flavours of white peach, citrus, nectarine, and some cashew. This is a powerful wine with a luscious mouthfeel. Acidity is more obvious than in the 2020. This wine is obviously more developed than the 2020, probably drinking at its peak now, and certainly proving this label can be aged (97 points).

The 1999 Chardonnay is different. The colour is an intense yellow. It delivers a big mouthfeel of lemon, melon, pineapple, fig, a hint of butterscotch. In comparison to the first two wines, it feels a little worked and heavy. However, it is a great effort to keep a 25 year old Australian Chardonnay alive and well (95 points).

At some point, I think in the early 2000s, the style of the Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay changed. Prior its fruit flavours were tropical, such as pineapple or yellow peach, and the mouthfeel broader. Since then precision on the palate increased, and citrus and white fruit flavours started to dominate, making the wine closer in style to a top level Burgundy. This was certainly brought out in this small tasting.

 

Penfolds Collection 2024

 

                                        

The Penfolds Collection now consists of 22 wines. It is difficult to taste them all. I had an opportunity to taste 9 of these wines. The biggest omissions were St. Henri (small volume?), Bin 707, RWT, the premium Chardonnays, and the French wines.

An overall impression of the red wines is that they seem to be fresher and more energetic than in the past. The influence of new oak is more subdued, and overall the wines are quite drinkable straight away.

I was not too impressed with the white wines I tasted. The 2024 Bin 51 Riesling from Eden Valley was quite broad (90 points). The 2023 Bin 311 is actually quite complex on the palate expressing citrus, white nectarine, strike match and almond flavours. The Penfols notes give more than 10 flavours, but somehow the wine did not grab me as some previous vintages have (92 points).

Of the entry level red wines, the 2023 Bin 23 Grenache was a real revelation. Many Grenaches are too big and too fruity, but this wine is quite restrained. It is medium-bodied, with raspberry flavours and a touch of bubblegum sweetness, only a touch. The mouthfeel is quite velvety and the finish is long - a very attractive wine (94 points). The 2022 Bin 28 Shiraz, the Penfolds workhorse, is pure and plummy, but the finish is short (92 points). 

The American wines are from the wildfires impacted 2021 vintage. The Bin 600 is this curious combination of Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon and  15% South Australian Shiraz. Despite the Shiraz component, I felt the hole on the mid-palate. The Cabernet component not very strong. The wine has an earthy taste and the finish is medium (91 points). The 2021 Bin 704 is Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. This is quite a big wine, but it has acidity to match. This is an intense and tannic wine, but it is in balance (93 points).

The 2022 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of Cabernet grapes from all major regions of South Australia is quite a step up. It is a fresh wine with good drive, representing the vintage. The cooler year defines this wine. It is much leaner than in previous years, again with a bit of a gap in the middle. However, it is a well constructed wine with good balance (92 points). The 2022 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz is quite a step up. The wine is quite fresh, with good drive, showing the characteristics of the vintage.  Blackberry, plum, and mulberry flavours deliver a satisfying mouthfeel. The key feature to me is the very long finish. This wine will benefit from ageing, no doubt (95 points).

Grange; what can you say that has not been said already. this is the 2020 Grange. The first impression; you can actually drink this wine on release and enjoy it. Given the unparalleled grape resources available to Penfolds, it is not surprising that the variability from year to year is quite low. So you expect the wine to be powerful and ripe, which it is, with licorice and dark chocolate flavours adding to the fruit. However, this is not an outstanding Grange, when measured against other vintages. What is missing is the detailed layering you find in the best vintages. Did the 2020 bush fires have an influence? (96 points).

Overall, Penfolds is heading in the right direction with this release. Some key wines were missing in this tasting, so a complete assessment will have to wait.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              

By Farr New Releases

 The whites of the new releases are from 2023, the reds from the 2022 vintage. Both vintages were cool in Geelong, in particular 2023.

I start with the 2023 By Farr Viognier. Viognier can be difficult, often a bit flabby, and tasting of fruit salad. This wine avoids it, helped by the cool vintage. It is quite tight, tasting of citrus, ginger, and apricot. So there is good complexity, and firms acidity brings it home in style (94 points).

The 2023 By Farr Chardonnay is interesting. It is certainly different from most in this country. While it is a young wine, it features ripe stone fruits, even some honey, and an overall savoury mouthfeel. It is quite a rich wine. I recommend to drink it young (93 points).

The most highly regarded By Farr wines are certainly the Pinot Noirs. The 2022 By Farr ‘Farrside’ Pinot Noir shows very lifted and pretty aromas. On the palate, strawberry, mushroom, and earthy flavours dominate. This is a very light wine, due to the vintage. The 60% whole bunch brings some body. The wine is smooth with a soft finish. It is quite different from the typical powerhouse performance of this wine (92 points).

The 2022 By Farr 'Sangreal' Pinot Noir is always the more savoury wine. Vines are grown on volcanic soil. In this year, it is quite fruity. There is the expected savoury undergrowth, but it is nowhere near as powerful as in most years. The firmer tannins and resulting structure gives it the lead over the 'Farrside' (93 points).

The real surprise is the 2022 By Farr Shiraz. This wine has never been on my radar. But in this year, where the Pinots do not hit their usual heights, the Shiraz shines. The wine is quite light, but in beautiful balance. Red berry fruit, a bit of spice, and some creaminess deliver a beautiful tender mouthfeel. This is cool climate Victorian Shiraz, but without the strong spice component of the typical Victorian profile. Soft tannins finish this graceful wine (94 points).

Overall, an unexpected experience. The Pinots were outshone by the bookends, the Viognier and the Shiraz. This is what vintage variation can do.

Cherubino Folklore Chardonnay

 When it comes to quality value wines from Australia, historically Shiraz would have been your best bet. But lately, I think, terrific Chardonnay is available for a good price, in particular from Western Australia. The 2022 Cherubino Folklore Chardonnay from Margaret River pushes this further, as a wine below $20 per bottle, at a quality level more typical for a high quality $30 bottle.

This wine is barrel-fermented in used French oak, unusual for this price point, with fruit coming from Pemberton, Porongurup, and Margaret River. The wine is light and refreshing at first, but more substance and complex flavours of white peach, melon and apricot emerge on the mid palate. The wine delivers a satisfying mouthfeel and a medium finish.

Score: 90/+++     

 

Domaine Jaeger-Defaix

 Vineyards in Rully in the northern part of the Côte Chalonnaise are the second interest of Hélène Jaeger-Defaix. Wines from the Côte Chalonnaise create interest, because one tries to find the same quality of Chardonnay or Pinot Noir as in Burgundy 'proper', but at a fraction of the price.

Two whites and two reds are available for tasting. The 2022 Jaeger-Defaix Rully 1er cru Le Cloux is light and fresh, with an elegant mouthfeel. This is a pleasant, well made Chardonnay without a lot of impact (91 points). The 2022 Jaeger-Defaix 1er cru Rabourcé Blanc sits right above the Le Coux vineyard. There is less of the white clay soil here. This is a fuller and more powerful wine with a longer finish (93 points).

The first red is the 2022 Jaeger-Defaix Rully Rouge. This is a village wine. It is light, well made, but not complex (91 points). The best wine of these is the 2022 Jaeger-Defaix Rully Rouge 1er cru Clos du Chapitre. The soil is clay. This wine is 100% barrel fermented, with 10% new oak. Strawberry flavours dominate. This is a bigger wine, but still energetic, with quite a tannic finish (94 points).

Overall, the Jaeger-Defaix wines are well made: balanced, with delicate flavours, and an elegant mouthfeel.

Domaine Berrnard Defaix Chablis

 This estate is currently run by Bernard's son Didier and his wife Hélène. The Domaine is small but punches above its weight because of its terroir and astute winemaking. 

Hélène Defaix

I tasted the three main Chablis from the 2022 vintage. All wines are organic since 2009. Petit Chablis often includes material from the outer regions, where the soil is clay. However, the 2022 Domaine Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis is only sourced from flat vineyards close to the village center, where the soil is kimmeridgian, including marine fossils. This gives the wine Chablis' famous minerality. This wine is citrus based, clean and linear. A bit of almond flavour appears on the finish built around fine acidity. Despite 2022 being a warm year, and the wine undergoing 100% malolactic fermentation, it is fresh and energetic. The skill here is to pick as early as possible, but the fruit needs to be ripe, according to Mrs. Defaix.

Score: 93/+++

The second wine is the 2022 Bernard Defaix Chablis. The fruit comes from similar vineyards to the Petit Chablis, but the vines are older. The wine also spends more time on lees. The result is a similar wine, with good dynamic on the palate and more fruit concentration - a very harmonious wine.

Score: 94/+++

The third wine is the jewel in the crown, the 2022 Bernard Defaix 1er cru Côte de Léchet. Bernard Defaix is the largest single holder of this vineyard. This vineyard has a perfect exposure to south-east. As a result, the fruit ripens early. 25% of the fruit sees old oak. This is a more complex wine with again more concentration, but still maintains a saline character. White fruit flavours deliver a delicate palate, with an excellent finish.

Score: 95/+++ 

 

  

Bindi New Releases

 There are some wineries with exceptional wines which manage to deliver high quality at reasonable prices as well (think Penfolds Bin 28, for example, or Ata Rangi Crimson Pinot Noir). Bindi, unfortunately, is not one of them. However, there are specific reasons for this. As Bindi became better known, wines from their exceptional Estate Vineyard in Macedon sell out in an instant. It was an opportunity too good to pass up, to expand with wines from bought-in fruit. The recent release of these wines (and some estate wines) allows us to assess their quality.

Let's start with the 2023 Bindi Dhillon Macedon Ranges Chardonnay. This wine is made from fruit sourced from the Macedon Ranges. Citrus and white peach are the dominant flavours. The focussed acidity is high, giving the wine a very refreshing finish (88 points). The second wine from the current release is the 2023 Bindi Kostas Rind Chardonnay. This is the standard wine from the Estate. The immediate observation is that this wine is much more concentrated. Otherwise there are similarities to the previous wine in terms of flavour and acidity. In addition, the wine has more energy and drive (92 points).

Then we come to the red wines. The 2023 Bindi Dixon Pinot Noir is the entry level Pinot Noir from the Estate. The colour is pale, but there is a lot going on in the mouth. Strawberry and raspberry flavours reveal themselves first, savoury notes follow, balanced by fine tannins. This wine tastes very young and must be aged to experience better harmony. The Dixon is my pick from the wines reviewed here (92 points).

The second area of focus for Michael Dhillon is Heathcote. The 2023 Bindi Col Mountain Grenache comes from there. This is quite a light red, soft, with typical raspberry flavours - a basic expression of Grenache, somewhat unusual from Heathcote (88 points). The Pyrette Shiraz has been around for longer. This release is the 2022 Bindi Pyrette Shiraz. This is a lighter style, very different from the typical expression from Heathcote. Blackberry, earthy and peppery notes deliver a typical cooler climate style. The wine finishes quite tannic (90 points). 

I was not able to taste the premium wines of this release. They were the 2017 and 2018 Darshan Pinot Noir and the 2019 Block 8 Pinot Noir. I tasted the 2017 Darshan at a visit to the winery last year (see previous blog post), as well as the 2021 Block 8. These wines come from new high density plantings on the Estate. They are exciting wines of small volume, the scarcity matched by high prices. 

 

Deep Woods Hillside Chardonnay

                                            

If you have the Fogarty Wine Group as an owner, and Julian Langworthy as the talented wine maker, it is no surprise that Deep Woods made a lot of gains, and is now regarded as one of the top wineries in Western Australia. This can really be put to the test with their entry level Chardonnay, in this case the 2022 Deep Woods Hillside Chardonnay. The fruit comes from a number of vineyards, mostly at somewhat higher elevation. Despite being an entry wine, the wine sees some new oak and is made in a modern style, with indigenous yeast used for wild fermentation and minimal fining.

The wine has a pale, slightly green colour. The clean palate delivers subtle stone fruit, mainly white peach, and also green apple. Fresh acidity delivers good balance in the mouth. This is a well crafted wine, though a little boring. It provides great value at $20-25 per bottle.

I suggest to drink this wine now or within two years.

Score: 90/0

Premium New Zealand Chardonnays

New Zealand Chardonnay is nothing like Australian Chardonnay. A closer comparison could be made with Napa Valley, although this is hard as well, as there are so many different styles in both regions. In general,  premium New Zealand Chardonnay is often quite rich (get away from the Sauvignon Blanc image?), and flavours are often stone fruit based as opposed to the citrus profile of the majority of Australian Chardonnay. The other day, I tasted four interesting examples. 

  

The first wine was the 2021 Tony Bish Skeetfield Chardonnay from Hawkes Bay. Tony Bish is a leading figure of the area, known for modern experimentation. He is biodynamic, likes ceramic eggs, you get the picture. 60% new French oak is applied as well. This Chardonnay is opulent and rich, with yellow peach and buttery flavours, and a creamy mouthfeel. No doubt he uses 100% malolactic fermentation. Despite this richness, this wine achieves some elegance on top of its mild acidity (94 points).                                                                                                                                                                                                                                The second Chardonnay is the 2021 Church Road Tom Chardonnay, also from Hawkes Bay. Wow! This wine makes an entry. It is incredibly smoky on the nose - a huge salvo of gun powder. On the palate, it is not different. This is another very opulent wine. It was not clear if the gun powder flavours are the result of the oak treatment or sulphur. It did not change in the glass. Would the smoke reduce with age? Hard to say. I have never tasted a wine as flinty as this. Below the flint, there is some banana and cream, but it is not what this wine is about (90 points).

The third wine is the 2020 Pyramid Valley Chardonnay from North Canterbury. The original international owners settled on this special location after a 15 year search in 2000. The vineyard they planted is at high altitude, very rocky, with vines planted in groups on the site. 

However, this wine comes from three vineyards going back to 1982 (the oldest Chardonnay vineyard in the country). The wine has been on lees for a full year and is matured in 25% new oak.

This is a very balanced wine, with floral aromatics and honeysuckle flavours building an attractive mouthfeel. The wine is quite ripe, yet retains freshness. The creamy aspects are due to the winemaking and lead to a rounded texture. Saline acidity delivers a lifting finish (94 points).

The final wine in this line-up is the 2013 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay from Nelson. This is a tropical and rich wine, quite oily and buttery. The wine is complex, with stone fruits, such as mango and peach complimented by hazelnut and biscuit flavours. The wine still feels quite young after 11 years. I found there was a bit too much going on in this compote of flavours (92 points).                                                                                                                                                                                             Overall, these wines provided a fascinating mix of flavours and techniques.

 

     

 

A. Rodda Beechworth Chardonnay

 Adrian Rodda has access to some very high quality vineyards in Victoria. The Smith vineyard in Beechworth is perhaps the best. At 550 meters of elevation, it allows for cooler climate wines, where significant diurnal variation is a major feature.

The 2022 A. Rodda Beechworth Chardonnay is quite pronounced on the nose. Pineapple and peach flavours jump out of the glass.

On the palate, a complex flavour profile emerges. Melon, ripe peach and hazelnut are the major components. The acidity is mild, but enough to drive the flavours down the palate, before saline flavours lead to a satisfying finish.

Given the location, you would expect a citrus focussed wine with firm acidity. However, this wine is more sophisticated and full in the mouth. I really enjoyed this.

Score: 95/+++

Lowestoft Best Barrels Chardonnay

 Following on from the impressive first release Lowestoft Pinot Noir reviewed a few posts below, I am now reporting on the 2019 Lowestoft Best Barrels Chardonnay.

Tasmania has become a hot bed for Chardonnay. And like the Pinot Noir, this is a blended wine of the best barrels from Tamar Valley, Coal River Valley and Tasman Peninsula. This wine was matured in large format oak (I think French), 35% new.

The flavours are complex, with citrus, grapefruit, and a hint of pineapple, added to by the cashew nut of the oak. This is a fresh wine with a balanced texture, and a firm line to the finish.

I would characterize this Chardonnay as occupying the middle ground between the lean types, currently so popular, and the full-blown Chardonnays, say California style.

Score: 94/++ 

Picq Chablis

 If you like crisp, clean, linear, but flavoursome Chablis, tasting of citrus rind, oyster shell, minerality and salt, this 2021 Picq Chablis is for you. This wine delivers a no nonsense Chablis, no diversion, no oak, natural yeast. It is utterly delicious.

Gilbert Picq & ses Fils is a small estate of about 14ha, comprising hillside vineyards near the town of Chicée. Some of the vineyards have a lot of small stones and no clay. The resulting wines tend to be crisp, chalky, and tinglingly mineral. 

This wine will easily age for ten years. Seek it out.

Score: 93/+++