My second ever Australian 100 pointer

 I have never been able to taste Penfolds' original Bin 60A from the 1962 vintage. The wine was never commercially released, but won many awards and by many wine critics is described as Australia's greatest wine. The Bin 60A label has only been used one more time, for a wine from the 2004 vintage, which showed similar characteristics to 1962. I tasted the 2004 Penfolds Bin 60A a few days ago. The wine is the same blend of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon (56%)  and Barossa Shiraz (44%).

I start by saying this wine bowled me over from the get go. Perfumed forest aromas rise from the glass. The palate is still youthful. The terra rossa soil based blackcurrants shine. The Barossa fruit brings additional weight and some sweetness, but this is never overbearing (alc. 13.5%). The savoury aspects taste of cedar, lead pencil shavings, licorice, and game. There is intensity in this wine, but also surprising lightness. It takes 'harmonious' to another level. Penfolds is known more for power than elegance, but this is a very elegant wine. The mouthfeel is rounded and almost silky. The dry, fine-grained tannins lead to a very long finish, which leaves earthy flavours in the mouth. 

This wine will last much longer, but now, after 20 years, is perhaps the ideal time to drink it. Fruit  and savoury flavours are in perfect balance. 

Score: 100/+++

   

Bekkers Syrah

 Bekkers is a boutique producer with a focus on the northern, hilly parts of McLaren Vale, and a meticulous focus on Shiraz and Grenache. Toby Bekkers operates at the premium end of the market.

The 2018 Bekkers Syrah delivers layers of fruit on the palate, blackberry and forest berries. There are also tobacco notes and licorice. The wine is focused and intense, without being overbearing. It is quite savoury on the back palate, a really interesting wine. There is good energy, before firm tannins lead to a medium plus finish.

The wine is quite balanced, and I would happily drink more than one glass. My score would have been even higher, if the level of elegance (which is not bad) had stood up even more to the fruit weight.

Score: 95/+++

 

O'Leary Walker Polish Hill Riesling

 I think of O'Leary Walker in a similar way in which Bin 389 is described as baby Grange. To me, O'Leary Walker is the baby Riesling to Grosset's Rieslings. Both produce Polish Hill and Watervale Rieslings. Grosset Rieslings show this purity of fruit and great drive. O'Leary Walker is similar, just not quite as much, and at a much lower price.

The 2023 O'Leary Walker Polish Hill Riesling delivers the typical lemon and lime flavours of Clare Valley. It is perhaps not as focused and precise as the Grosset equivalent, but it comes close. The wine is very energetic on the palate. It is linear and long. The wine is obviously still very young, but already well balanced and enjoyable.

This is an excellent Riesling in the Australian style (acidic and lean). It will age well, but I prefer drinking this wine young.

Score: 94/+++

  

Bisci Verdicchio

 Every now and then, I try a new Italian variety from the hundreds on offer. This 2022 Bisci Verdicchio from the Marche region turns out to be quite interesting. Bisci wines are organic, the grapes harvested from high altitude vineyards. 

The 2022 Bisci Verdicchio is matured in concrete tanks and left on lees for eight months. The wine has a pale golden colour and is quite aromatic on the nose, with white flower notes.

On the palate, peach and melon flavours add to the moderate citrus. The key to this wine is its texture. The wine is quite full in the mouth, flavoursome, yet dry. It is very well made.

This wine would lose out if accompanied by food. It is a great afternoon wine standing on its own, maybe accompanied by a cracker or two.

Score: 92/++

Petaluma Evans Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot

 It has been a long while since I had a Petaluma bottle. This is strange, given it is such an iconic label. And I never had an Evans Vineyard wine. So I was looking forward to this 2016 Petaluma Evans Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot. 

The wine is concentrated on the palate, with blackcurrent and mocca flavours delivering a predominantly savoury sensation in the mouth. The Merlot component is weaved well into the Cabernet Sauvignon, thereby avoiding the typical mid palate hole of a pure Cabernet Sauvignon.

The tannins are dry and firm. This wine is about structure. I wish it was matched by elegance. However, my mouth felt challenged rather than soothed, before the finish hits hard.

The wine tastes like old-fashioned winemaking.

Score: 92/0