Achaval Ferrer Malbec

 It was not until after I bought a bottle of 2019 Achaval Ferrer Malbec that I started to think about it. You see, this business is owned by Stolichnaya, a Russian vodka business. Are we, as individual consumers to boycott Russian goods? On one level, it makes sense, because it creates trouble for these companies, and hopefully creates pressure for the Russian regime. On the other hand, and in particular if the business resides elsewhere, it hurts local employment, and would it really achieve anything? Anyway, I had bought this bottle before those thoughts went through my mind.

Achaval Ferrer has done a lot for raising the quality of Argentina’ s Malbec. Following Catena Zapata, it became an advocate of single vineyard wines, based on old vines, and mostly from the Uco Valley. However, this wine is a blend from their vineyards, I guess from the declassified fruit for the single vineyard wines.

Blueberry and blackberry flavours dominate. The fruit is very pure and quite plush. Having said this, some savoury notes add to the overall pleasant  mouthfeel. Most of it is on the front palate. Still, the wine is balanced with a medium finish.

Score: 90/++

Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino

April 17 is World Malbec Day. Well, this means Argentinian Malbec, doesn't it? There is no better way than celebrating with the Penfolds of Argentina, Catena Zapata. I have a bit of a soft spot for Malbec, but it has to be high quality.

The 2012 Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino is built around an interesting blending concept. The component from their leading 1400 meter Adrianna vineyard is co-fermented with Viognier, the component from the 1000 meter Altamira Nicasia vineyard is co-fermented with Cabernet Franc. The wine is matured in new French oak for 2 years; wild yeast, no fining, no filtration - high class, no expenses spared.

The wine shows a deep purple colour, no signs of ageing, even though under cork.

This is a full-bodied wine, complex and layered. It is as mouth-filling as Grange. This wine tastes built like a skyscraper, maybe 50 levels (Grange would be 70). Blackberry, plum, and mulberry fruit give way to meaty flavours, but the wine is neither caked nor overripe. While the flavours are powerful, the tannins are only medium. This gives the wine an elegant feel, as the fruit/meat combination sails down the palate to the end.

This is a terrific wine which will live for at least another 10 years.

Score: 96/+++   

Caelum Torrontés

I visited Caelum, a white wine specialist in Mendoza, several years ago. However, this bottle comes from Untapped Fine Wines, an importer who went into liquidation a couple of months ago. Their stock is auctioned by Graysonline in batches every week.

Argentina hoped that its indigenous white grape Torrontés could achieve the same world recognition as Malbec has achieved for red wines. It has not happened. However, it is a very distinctive grape variety.

This 2015 Caelum Torrontés already has quite a developed golden colour. This is not unusual for this aromatic variety which should be drunk quite young. The nose has appeal with floral and spicy aromas.

On the palate, the wine delivers flavours of yellow peach, apricot and a bit of pineapple. There are earthy notes as well. The wine gives a round mouthfeel. Acidity is light to medium. Interestingly, the finish of this aromatic wine is extra dry.

Score: 88/+

Achaval Ferrer Malbec

Many of us have sentimental favorites in sport. Someone you admire, but has never quite reached the top, for example Gabriela Sabatini for her stylish tennis, or a technically brilliant football team which has trouble kicking goals. Well, I have sentimental favorites in wine. One of these is Achaval Ferrer from Mendoza. This is because next to Catena Zapata it made the most interesting wines in Argentina. Three single vineyard Malbecs from different locations and old vines, where the terroir influence really showed.

This is the 2011 Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira. It comes from the Uco Valley, where this vineyard is located at an altitude of 1300m. The sunshine here is intense. The grapes protect themselves with thick skins. As a result, the skin to pulp ratio is high. This produces intense and more savoury flavours. 

There is blackberry and mulberry fruit on the palate, but also fig and black olive. The sweet core on the mid palate adds chocolate to the complexity. The tannins are smooth, delivering an alluring elegance and a long finish, almost expanding like a top Burgundy wine.

This wine is a beauty and very alive at nine years of age. Sadly, the best days of the company are over, it seems. After the sale to the Russian SPI, maker of Stolychnaya vodka, the brilliant winemaking duo of Santiago Achaval and Roberto Cipresso left a few years ago and opened Matervini, virtually next door. This is a winery to watch, pushing the envelop with high altitude vineyards even further.  

Score: 95/+++

Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino

Last Wednesday was World Malbec Day, quite a clever marketing ploy. What better way than to celebrate with a wine from Argentina's most famous winery, Catena Zapata.

The Malbec Argentino is one of Catena's premium Malbecs, with the name indicating the important role Malbec is playing in Argentina's winemaking. 

The 2012 Catena Zapata Argentino has all the hallmarks of modern red winemaking: 100% barrel fermentation, wild yeasts, no filtration, no fining, 24 months in French oak barrels. It it a blend from their two famous high altitude Uco Valley vineyards Adrianna and Nicasia. There are small components of Cabernet Franc and Viognier in this wine.

This wine is almost an anti-Malbec. It is not the juicy, fruity wine of Argentina's Malbec reputation, but rather a pared back, high altitude version. Flavours of sour cherry have a slight spicy and medicinal note, based on crunchy minerality. The strength of the wine is its drive and line with firm tannins on the finish. 

This wine is not everybody's cup of wine, but I like it.

Score: 93/++  

Andeluna Tasting

Andeluna has fantastic views of the Andes. It is another ambitious winery. It has one large 80ha vineyard in the prime location of Gualtallary. The mid-range is the Altitud range (the vineyard sits at 1300m elevation. The Chardonnay delivers some ripe notes of banana and pineapple. The Malbec  shows some fruit complexity, but is a bit harsh in the mouth (both 88 points).

The top range is the Pasionado range. The 2015 Malbec is quite intense and needs more time for the tannins to soften (90 points). The 2016 Cabernet Franc, matured in used oak, has good complexity, with red berries, some eucalypt and bell peppers on the palate (92 points). The top wine is a 2015 Pasionado Blend, 50% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is matured in 100% new oak. It is a full bodied wine. The fruit can carry the oak, and the wine is well structured (92 points).

This winery does not quite reach the heights of Zuccardi, but the Pasionado range is well worth while seeking out.

Zuccardi Tasting

Familia Zuccardi is a fast growing, and increasingly important winery in the Uco Valley. The production is now about 100,000 cases per annum. They emphasize terroir and claim it is the next stage in the Uco Valley, after the exploration of high altitude. Interestingly, and in total contrast to Matervini, they are keen on alluvial soils. They do not focus on oak. Maturation takes place in concrete vats, 500 litre old barrells, and 1000 litre foudres (see below).

I start the tasting with the mid-range Q wines, which are available in many countries. The 2017 Chardonnay is fresh and has flavours of citrus and stone fruit. Old oak is used; it is a balanced wine (92 points). It actually beats the 2016 Malbec (90 points) and the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, which has some lean and green characters (88 points).

The Poligonos range is there to show the influence of terroir. These are three Malbecs from 2017, which do not see any oak. The San Pablo, from a 1500m vineyard , is from the coolest subregion. It is dark and intensive, but not a huge wine with great energy (93 points). The Altamira is similar but more rounded, from lower altitude (92 points).  The Tupungato from Gualtallary (the real hotspot at the moment) ranked between the two, as far as fruit weight is concerned. The wine was a bit sweet on the mid-palate (91 points). So interestingly, altitude was responsible for the different expressions of the wines, much more so than terroir, in my opinion. (Therefore, I will leave out the story on calciumcarbonite, and different rock sizes.)

The 2014 Jose Zuccardi is the most traditional of the wines. It is aged in foudres. It is a very pure and elegant wine, well rounded with complex black fruit flavours and a soft tannin finish (94 points). I preferred it to the Concreto, obviously aged in concrete vats, which is a bit leaner (92 points). Again, both wines are available in many markets. 

The stars are the high priced Aluvional wines from Altamira and Gualtallary. They are a selection of grapes from these two vineyards. The 2014 Aluvional Altamira is very smooth and elegant, with added chocolate flavours and great length (95 points). The 2014 Aluvional Gualtallary is very dark, with a steely determination and drive (95 points). 

Then there is the 2014 Finca Piedra Infinita, which comprises the fruit from the best barrell(s). You would normally expect this to be the biggest wine in the range, but it is actually a lighter wine, very layered and elegant, but to me it lacked the mouthfeel of the previous two wines (93 points).

Overall, this is an impressive winery with a great range of Malbecs. The terroir story is not yet proven, in my view, but it will be interesting to watch.

Matervini Tasting

The other major new ‘small’ development next to El Enemigo is the new winery by Santiago Achaval, supported by Roberto Cipresso; the old Achaval Ferrer team. But while Alejandro Vigil focusses on Cabernet Franc, Matervini’s motto is ‘what comes after Malbec? More Malbec!

However, Santiago is also looking for something new. He wants to explore Malbec in different soils, in particular less alluvial soils. He was fortunate, he had access to three different vineyards from the start, and from the 2016 vintage, I can taste five Malbecs.

The Vina Canota comes from an isolated vineyard 30km north of Mendoza. It is hot there, and the grapes ripen early. The flavours are intense, but the overall mouthfeel is a bit austere (92 points). The two Salta wines come from Cafayate. The body is not so big, the wines are elegant.

A step up is the Finca from the traditional Lujan de Cuyo area. This is a complex wine, a little fat perhaps, but quite layered with a sweet core. This is a ripe Malbec as you would expect it from a top producer (94 points).

The star of the tasting is the Pidras Viejas from a vineyard at 1600 meters elevation. The vineyard sits on volcanic soil and is densely planted. The yields are low. The colour of this wine is inky black, and the fruit flavours are very concentrated; black cherry, blackberry and cassis. At the same time, the texture is silky, and the wine is a pleasure to drink. The future of Malbec? (96 points) 

Santiago Achaval is still producing great Malbec, and my sense is (supported by tasting some 18s from barrel), a lot more great wines are in the pipeline.

Norton Tasting

Norton is owned by the Austrian Swarovski family of crystals fame. A family member is involved in the mnagement of this very large 24 million bottle winery. I like this winery, because it also produces very small volume high end wines. I  was taken through the range by winemaker David Bonomi. 

New modern concrete tanks

The first taste was a real surprise: a 2014 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay Champagne. It showed very fine bubbles.This fresh Champagne was very delicate, with an undertone of smooth yeast (93 points).

The white wines, Gruner Veltliner (of course), Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay were less impressive, but they now make of 35-40% of production.

The 2017 Malbec Reserve, the standard bearer,  has the typical black fruit character of the Uco Valley, and the sweetness of Lujan de Cuyo. This medium bodied wine offers great value for money (90 points).

New are the Altura Cabernet Franc and Malbec wines from the Uco Valley. 4000 cases are made of these. I found them very attractive for their freshness, attractive medium body fruit profiles, and balance, in particular the Malbec (92 points).

The 2016 Privada is a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, and then there was a Malbec blend from 5 vineyards - both wines quite well rounded with some sweetness (91 points).

The top wines were the 2017 Lote Negro, a 60/40 Malbec Cabernet Franc blend, matured in concrete vats and old wood. It showed fruit intensity, but was gentle and smooth (94 points). And the 2015 Gernot Langes (named after a Swarovski family member). This again is a Malbec dominated blend (94 points). These are traditional best of barrel wines, but made with drinkability in mind.

I was then given the opporunity to taste the first ever Argentinian Malbec which had Malbec on the label,  1974. What a treat this was! The wine had matured perfectly. The colour was orange on the rim. It translated into some orange peel on the palate, next to the black cherry fruit. The wine was very elegant with a beauiful texture , still balanced and a silky finish (96 points).

This put to rest any discussion if Malbec can age.       

Achaval Ferrer Tasting

Achaval Ferrer was my favorite winery when I visited Mendoza region in 2014. It had been sold to SPI, the maker of famous Stolychnaya vodka at the time, but the wines I tasted were still made by the original team of  Santiago Achaval and Roberto Cipresso. The Malbecs were characterized by intensity and elegance.

This time turned out to be different. It was obvious from entering the winery. There were a number of customers, but staff was very disinterested. The brands and typical very low yields in the vineyards have remained unchanged, but the taste of the wines was certainly different.

The 2014 Quimera is a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The wine had good fruit intensity, but was very alcoholic with a hot finish (85 points). The 2014 Malbec Bellavista was somewhat brutish, with the 100% new oak not well integrated - a concentrated wine with firm tannins and a sweet finish. This wine might appeal to some, but did not to me (90 points). The Mirador was fresher, with significant acidity and some complex flavours of chocolate and tobacco, but again lacking balance (91 points).

The star of the tasting, as five years ago, was the 2014 Altamira. This wine comes from the Uco Valley, from a vineyard at 1300m altitude and volcanic soil. It showed dark fruits, an elegant expression, and a long finish (94 points).

The new winemaker is a young Argentinian. It seems the focus is on power, high alcohol, and new oak, clearly aimed at a certain American palate. Unfortunately, the subtleties in the wines I enjoyed many years ago, have been lost.  

El Enemigo Tasting

El Enemigo is the side project of Alejandro Vigil, the winemaker of Catena Zapata. Adrianna Zapata,     the youngest daughter of Nicolas Zapata, is an equal shareholder. She lives in London, but it was probably a condition to allow this project to go ahead. I had an opportunity to taste the whole range of their wines. And what a world-class tasting it was. Alejandro shows his excitement about these wines; he can now do what he wants, not limited by the ‘corporate’ Catena Zapata. And what he wants is to focus on Cabernet Franc. There is Malbec, of course, but the real excitement is about Cabernet Franc. There is a Chardonnay in the range, and then two lines, El Enemigo and Gran El Enemigo.

The Chardonnay, from 2016, is the first big surprise. This stone fruit based wine has nutty characters as well and is very complex, while maintaining freshness, and this for $25/bottle (95 points).

The El Enemigo range includes a Shiraz/Viognier, a Malbec, a Cabernet Franc and a Bonarda, all from 2014. These wines show individual varieties very well (91-94 points), with the Cabernet Franc the highlight. It tastes of blue fruits, spices and soft tannins; no greenness here, which often characterizes 100% Cabernet Franc.

The Gran El Enemigo range comes from higher altitude vineyards in the Uco Valley, which are planted at a density of 10,000 to 12,000 plants per ha. The blend of five Bordeaux varieties is an easy drinking style. The next four wines are all single vineyard Cabernet Franc (with a bit of Malbec thrown in). The Agrelo is from 930m altitude and quite soft in style. 

The last three wines are terrific. The Chacayes is fresh and elegant, with a fine spice mix and intense flavours (94 points). The El Chepillo is my favourite. It hits the palate with a great punch - a racy wine of superb intensity and depth, yet fresh (97 points). 

The last wine is the only wine from 2013, the  Gualltalary. There is a reason for this. This is the first pure Cabernet Franc to ever receive 100 points from Robert Parker. I think it is the only Mendoza wine to ever receive 100 points from him. This wine is very composed and elegant, with a long finish, but it is not a 100 pointer (96 points). The El Chepillo has more character, and when I later spoke with Alejandro, he said the El Chepillo was his preferred wine.

This was an outstanding tasting, showcasing the incredible talents of Alejandro Vigil. I have never known that 100% Cabernet Franc could taste this good. It can be a complete wine. If you come across these wines, you must try them.

Achavel-Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec

Achavel-Ferrer was my favorite winery when I visited the Mendoza region of Argentina in 2014. It was managed by a very talented Italian winemaker. However, the winery was bought by Russian interests, and he has moved to a new winery. I am going to be in Mendoza again in 10 days and will visit both wineries and report my impressions then. To get in the mood, I drank a bottle of one of Achavel-Ferrer's premium single vineyard wines last night.

 
The 2011 Achavel-Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec comes from the Uco Valley, and a vineyard planted at over 1000m elevation. The colour is purple indicating small berries and thick skins, both not common in Malbec grown at sea-level.

The flavours are blackcurrent and elderberry. This is a concentrated and full-bodied wine with a big mouthfeel, but it is balanced, and the acidity (from cool nights in the vineyard) keeps the wine fresh. This wine is perhaps a bit dense, but of high quality. The integration of new french oak has been done well. An Argentinian or Australian steak would be the perfect pairing.

Score: 94/++  

Zuccardi Uco Valley Malbec

The 2013 Zuccardi Malbec comes from the Uco Valley, 100km south of Mendoza. This wine shows the typicality of the Uco Valley really well. Vineyards there are established at more than 1000m in altitude. The intensity of the sunshine leads to thicker skins of the Malbec, and the cool nights extend the ripening period. 

This translates, in this wine, to a fresh aroma of maraschino cherries, while at the same time there is great intensity and a full mouthfeel on the palate. The structure is balanced, with a hint of alcoholic heat on the finish.

Score: 92/+= 

Zuccardi Malbec

The Zuccardi family started out as a bulk producer,and over the years moved into bottled wine, and from Maipu near Mendoza to the higher altitude Uco Valley.  A new winery was opened there in 2016. The third generation continues to experiment.

The 2016 Zuccardi Malbec Concreto is the result of such experimentation, as the wine has been matured in egg shaped concrete vats. The fruit is a mixture of the warmer Maipu district and the cooler Uco Valley. This is a full-bodied wine with intense Malbec fruit. Black cherry and blackberry fruit flavours express the typical character of this grape. I found the wine a bit jammy and lacking other elements of complexity.

Score: 88/0

The 2013 Zuccardi Malbec Valle de Uco shows dramatically the effect of the cooler sites. This wine is a blend of several high altitude sites. Apart from black fruits, blue fruits and violets are present as well. The wine has more energy and drive and is quite elegant. The tannins are firm, yet also silky. The finish is fresh.

Score: 93/++   

Caelum Malbec

17 April was world Malbec day. Not that this sets the world on fire, but I thought I celebrate by opening one of the only two Argentinian Malbecs I have in my cellar, a 2012 Caelum Malbec. The label depicts the Caelum constellation which can be observed in the Southern hemisphere.

The Caelum winery is a small family business in Mendoza producing very well priced wines, including a number of attractive whites. 

This Malbec is a fresh, full-bodied wine. The cherry fruit almost leaps out of the glass. The wine is fruity and juicy, but also firm. It is not very complex on the palate, but has  a good tannin structure and a lively round finish.

Score: 92/++

Two Exciting Cabernets To Compare: Achaval-Ferrer and Stag's Leap Wine Cellars

I missed World Malbec Day, which was 10 days ago. However, it is a good marketing idea. Therefore, belatedly, I pulled the best Malbec out of my cellar.

Strictly speaking, the 2011 Achaval Ferrer Quimera is not a Malbec, but a Malbec blend, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and a bit of Petit Verdot making up the remaining 50%.

This wine is utterly modern, with freshness and superb elegance. It is clean, crisp and very defined, with a shape which runs down the palate, rather than engulfing every possible taste bud. Blackcurrant flavours, black cherry, blackberry and white pepper blend in with fine grained tannins. The finish is very elegant. 

The different grape contributions are seamless. What is surprising is that only the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes come from high altitude, but there is no sweetness, thickness or over-ripeness in this well made wine.

Score: 95/+++

One of the exciting, and still affordable wines I brought back from a trip to Napa Valley around 2010 was the 2007 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. (Stag's Leap Vineyards) Cabernet Sauvignon. This is of course the winery which won the legendary 1976 tasting challenge against Bordeaux wines (with the Cask 23). The 1973 vintage of this wine was named an 'Object that made America' by the Smithsonian National Museum of American History.

Like with Australian Shiraz, there is always some doubt how well Napa Cabernet Sauvignon can age. And in 10 year old tastings, the scores are mostly lower than on release. However, on opening the bottle, the signs are good. The colour is dark and looks fresh.

This wine comes from a warmer climate than the Quimera, and it shows. The wine is darker, richer, and broader. The flavours are quite complex. Red- and blackcurrant, plum, and cedar mix with earthy notes, cinnamon and chocolate. The structure is holding up, and the balance is good. Coarser tannins lead to a full-bodied finish.

Score: 93/++

Choosing between these two wines really comes down to preferences. The freshness and raciness of the Quimera vs. the richness and full mouthfeel of the S.L.V.  

Michel Rolland Clos de los Siete Malbec

Argentinian Malbec has improved dramatically over the last 10 years. The hot spot is the Uco Valley, approximately 50 to 80 kilometres south of Mendoza. Many new projects have been started here, some architecturally spectacular wineries been built. The attraction is the altitude, 1000 to 1500 meters. Warm days are balanced by cool nights, leading to a long and even ripening period.

One of the most ambitious projects is the Clos de los Siete, a large compound with a huge vineyard as its centre piece, and seven wineries built around it. It was the idea of Michel Rolland, the famous French wine consultant. The project has run into problems, with a number of participants, among them the Taittinger family, withdrawing. A lot is shrowded in secrecy, but Michel Rolland is pushing on.

I am drinking the 2013 Michel Rolland Clos de los Siete Malbec blend. This is an outstanding wine.   Malbec dominates, but Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Shiraz grapes are included. The nose is an intense cocktail of red plum, cherry and pepper. This continues on the palate. This is a full-bodied wine with concentrated ripe fruit and a strong acidic backbone. The wine has a great line, as it moves smoothly to the back palate. It remains strong in the mouth along the way. There are smoky tones, but the oak treatment is restrained. The finish is silky, fresh and acidic at this point in time.

This wine combines the lushness of a sun-drenched vineyard with French winemaking to beautiful effect. The wine is too early to drink, but no doubt, the components will integrate perfectly. This wine is also attractively priced for the quality.

Score: 94/+++

Achaval-Ferrer

I am sorry for the long break. I am travelling in South- and Central America and just did not feel like blogging. I spent time in Mendoza, the wine capital of Argentina, and must say that the top wines, most of them Malbec, are very impressive.

The most exciting company is Achaval-Ferrer. The company is only 13 years old, but the vines in their vineyards average about 100 years. Achaval-Ferrer was formed by three friends, but sold to Russian interests four years ago. So far their involvement has been minimal, but it looks like this could change now.

Achaval-Ferrer picks its grapes quite early and fashions three very distinctive single vineyard Malbecs.

The 2011 Achaval-Ferrer Finca Mirador Malbec comes from a vineyard at 700m altitude (this is low over there), and the soil is predominantly clay. This Malbec is full- bodied, with meaty and smoky overtones. The climate of this vineyard is hot, and the flavours are quite ripe, with firm tannins. This is a wine that would appeal to drinkers of California Cabernets and South Australian Shiraz (94 points).

The 2011 Achaval-Ferrer Finca Bella Vista Malbec is grown on limestone soil at 1000m altitude. This is a very different wine: sensuous, soft and velvety. What a contrast! This is simply a delicious world-class wine (95 points).

The 2011 Achaval-Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec is the most exciting to me. It comes from the Altamira region of the Uco Valley. The vines grow at 1300 metres. The grapes defend themselves against the UV intensity with thick skins, thereby increasing the pulp-to-juice ratio. This gives the wine extra intensity. However, as the grapes are picked relatively early, this does not come at the expense of freshness and vitality. I tasted figs and chocolate apart from the cherry dominated fruit flavours. This is a complex wine, which will further improve with ageing (95 points).

Check out these wines or the Quimera, which is an excellent blend.