Don Melchor

 It has been a long time between drinks, drinks of Don Melchor that is. My last taste of Chile’s Grange was over 20 years ago, but yesterday I allowed myself a bottle of the 2020 Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon. Like Penfolds in Treasury Wine Estates, Don Melchor has become a separate identity within Concha y Toro.

The wine is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon. Red and black currant flavours, as well as blue fruits (the Cabernet Franc influence?) deliver a complex profile on the palate. The wine is quite concentrated and generous in the mouth. A stony element keeps it energetic. The wine has substantial fruit weight, but not as much as Grange. It is a majestic and elegant wine. The racy acidity delivers good energy. The firm tannins are substantial and very dry, leading to a medium plus finish.

Based on this bottle, Don Melchor deserves the status of the classically fashioned top wine of Chile.

Score: 96/+++

Vik Milla Cala

This wine from the Cachapoal Valley in Chile is a typical Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenère blend. Vik is a well known Norwegian in South America, best known for his luxury resorts in Uruguay. The 2012 version of this wine, from a young 2006 vineyard, made it to #22 on the top 100 of the 2018 Wine Spectator list. I tasted the 2013 Vik Milla Cala.

This wine offers a complex spectrum of red and black fruits. It starts fresh and elegant, then it gets a bit dense. This is a full-bodied, fruit focussed wine with a medium length finish. I am not sure the structure will hold, but it is pleasant to drink now with protein.

Score: 91/+

Ventisquero Pangea Syrah

Like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz is grown in many parts of the world. As a result, it can deliver many different expressions. The 2012 Ventisquero Pangea Syrah from the Alpalta vineyard in Chile tastes of red plum, backberry and black pepper. It has elements of a cool climate Shiraz, but is quite intense. This medium to full-bodied wine delivers good energy along the palate. The flavours are a bit same-same along the palate, but the structure of the wine is sound, and the flavours are appealing.

Score: 92/++

Cono Sur Bicicleta Syrah

I am on a bit of an international tasting tour. Cono Sur (get it?) is a Chilean producer of large volume wine at generally great value for money. I have enjoyed their Pinot Noir in the past. This Syrah is called Bicicleta, because the workers apparently care for the vineyard on bicycle (go figure).

I tried the 2014 Cono Sur Bicicleta Syrah. This is a pretty basic wine. The red plum flavours are not very intense, but the wine is clean and uncomplicated. It is reasonably balanced, and as long as it is consumed with a hearty dish, such as a hamburger, it can be enjoyed in a supporting role.

Score: 85/0

Cono Sur Pinot Noir

Cono Sur is a Chilean Pinot Noir specialist. The name refers to the shape of South America, a southern cone. I am sure it is also a play on 'connoisseur'. Apparently it is taking the US by storm. And why wouldn't it? It is currently offering its 2010 Cono Sur Pinot Noir for about $10/bottle in Australia. $9.50 of this must be freight. This is actually a good wine, comparable to a good local $25/bottle Pinot Noir: well made, fruit and savoury characteristics, but obviously fairly simple.

The 2008 Cono Sur Vision Pinot Noir is my pick. This wine has earthy and quite smoky characteristics unlike anything from  Australia. It is priced in the high twenties per bottle.

The top two Pinot Noirs are the 20 Barrels and the Ocio. These wines are quite soft and fruity and the Ocio shows some silkiness. They are quite elegant, but you get much better complexity from local wines.