Quinta Do Crasto

 

Visiting Quinta do Crasto, Portugal’s leading table wine producer IMHO, first requires a hair raising drive up the Douro mountains. But you are rewarded not only with amazing views, a look at its world famous Maria Teresa vineyard (above), but also a memorable tasting. The Maria Teresa vineyard, over 100 years old, is always voted as one of the world’s top 10 vineyards and the single vineyard wine certainly made the reputation of Crasto. When I visited 6-7 years ago, Manuel Lobo, the winemaker, described a project to identify the different grape varieties of this field blend. He estimated about 35. When I met him now, he mentioned they are up to 54 varieties - astonishing and pretty unique. The care for this vineyard is such that if vines die, and the variety is not known, they replant with the major varieties mix, in order to maintain the profile of this vineyard. It is an amazing story, but not the only one. Total production of table wines has grown dramatically to 1.8 million bottles. Let us taste some.

We start with two whites. The 2021 Douro is an entry level wine. It comes from grapes grown at 600m altitude on granite soils, and it sees no oak. The wine is fresh, with good line, citrus and melon flavours, refreshing acidity, good energy, and a saline and mineral finish. This is an entry level wine? (91 points).  The 2020 Superior White comes from a similar vineyard, but in contrast, has been matured for 8 months in barrique, 50% new of light toast. The other feature is the batonage, in a racking system of barrels, which allows each barrel to turn individually. It also avoids any oxygen contact. This wine is also fresh, and impresses with its fine texture (93 points).

Now to the reds, which is the winery's main focus. The 2019 Superior, from a good year, comes from the Upper Douro, not far from the Spanish border. The main varieties in this blend are Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, and Souzao. The wine is matured in oak for 12 months, 35% new. Red plum is the main flavour. The wine has firm tannins and will require a bit more time to fully settle (90 points). The 2020 Reserva has an incredibly black colour. It comes from old 50-100 year old vineyards, 42 blocks in total. Each individual block is a field blend - amazing. The wine is matured in 60% new oak, but the oak is not obvious. The wine is concentrated and powerful, but elegant as well, with a long lasting mouthfeel (95 points).

The final two reds in this tasting are single variety wines, which is not often found in the Douro. The 2018 Touriga Franca comes from 40 year old vines, and is matured in 85% new oak. Despite this, it is a lighter wine, but with some bite. It is fresh, red fruited, and with some spice (93 points). The 2017 Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo in Spain) is also matured for 18 months in 85% new oak. It has a darker colour and is a bigger wine. The palate is quite complex with red and black fruits, dark mocca, and olive flavours (95 points). 

Overall, this tasting has been impressive. Manuel Lobo has been the winemaker for 18 years now. He has assembled an incredible portfolio of vineyard sources. The oak treatment is smart, and all the wines are of a high standard.

Crasto Tinto Superior

Quinta do Crasto is Portugal's best winery of table wines. The focus on quality, as exemplified by the management of the sorting table, for example, is second to none. It's best wines are field blends of old single vineyards, containing an astonishing 50+ varieties. The wine reviewed here is different.

The 2015 Crasto Tinto Superior comes from a newly planted vineyard (14 years old) in the Douro Superior subregion. This is the warmest of the three subregions, close to the Spanish border and furthest from the ocean. The plantings are Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinto Roriz (Tempranillo) as recommended to focus on by the Government, as well as Souzao, a variety with high acidity. This is sensible to include in a warm region such as Douro Superior.

The first impression on the palate is the round mouthfeel and slightly velvety character. Black fruit delivers intensity, and blue fruit elegance. The flavours are not too complex, but the different varieties add interest. The tannins of this wine are firm, showing the Touriga Nacional influence, and a little coarse. Together with the concentrated fruit, the tannins deliver a long finish.

I imagine this can be a fantastic wine with increased vine age.

Score: 93/+++ 

Quinta Do Vesuvio

Some facts are hard to comprehend. The Symington family owns 27 wineries in the Douro Valley. The focus is Port, of course, with its famous Graham's and Dow's brands. But there is also a serious table wine effort under way. The leading winery for it is Quinta do Vesuvio, and the leading red carries the same name.

The 2015 Quinta do Vesuvio, from a great vintage, is a multi variety wine, with Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca being the main contributors. The colour of the wine is deep purple. Blackberry aroma jumps from the glass.

Concentrated blackberry and bramble flavours hit the palate. This is a pretty full-on, full-bodied wine, yet the wine is quite elegant: a modern version of the Douro red. Acidity gives the wine freshness, despite the fruit weight. The wine is balanced, with firm tannins, and needs time to mellow.  For me, it is a bit too much of everything. I suggest drinking from 2020.

Score: 93/+