The Tyson Stelzer extravaganza, with a tasting of over 200 Champagnes, was back this year. Unfortunately, some leading Grower Champagnes were not included, so I decided to focus on the larger Champagne houses this time - maybe with some regret in hindsight.
Before you read my assessment, I should emphasize that I have a particular preference as far as Champagne is concerned. I like complexity on the palate, including some biscuit flavours. Interestingly, there has clearly been a trend to very fresh Champagne, more in the blanc de blancs style.
Bollinger has been a favourite of mine, with its high quality vineyards. La Grande Année 2014 impresses with its fine bubbles. It is soft and smooth, but more in the fresh style. The PN TX 17 2017 is 100% Pinot Noir with more depth, but not as precise. Pol Roger's Brut Reserve is always a go to Champagne. It has a beautiful balance and some toast - a bit broad. The Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2015 is longer and persistent on the palate with some biscuit notes.
Pierre Gimmonet has an excellent Champagne with its Special Club Grand Terroirs de Chardonnay 2015. The bubbles are small, delivering a satisfying and complex mouthfeel. In contrast, I found the 1er cru Blanc de Blancs 2017 less convincing. Billecart-Salmon was impressive with its Brut Reserve. It is quite a delicate Champagne, but with some depth and a long finish. The Extra Brut 2009 is even better, with very fine bubbles, a light but intense palate and a very dry finish. Charles Heidsieck just sneaked into the top group with the Blanc de Blancs NV and the Millésime Brut 2012/13. There are similarities to the Bollinger wines, with a bit less refinement.
Below these wines, and in the second group, I have Deutz, Louis Roederer (Crystal was not on offer), and Taittinger.
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