Tuesday, September 29, 2020
Saturday, September 26, 2020
Tertini is a winery which should be on your radar. Its home is the Southern Highlands. I reviewed some of its wines a little while ago. It is nice when there is a story associated with the wine you are drinking. Often it would involve you in relation to the wine. This one is different. This story writes itself.
I am drinking the last bottle of the first wine of Tertini, a 2005 Tertini Riesling. It was generously given to me by the winery. Amazingly, the colour of this high altitude wine is still green/golden after 15 years.
Thursday, September 24, 2020
Roberto Voerzio is said to be the most meticulous winemaker in Piedmont with very detailed vineyard work and a rigorous grape selection process. He was the leader of the 'modernists' in the 1990s, moving to short maceration periods and French barriques. His Barolos are among Piedmont's best. But today, I am reviewing the 2015 Roberto Voerzio Barbera d'Alba 'Il Ceretto'.
Tuesday, September 22, 2020
Three great Chardonnays were pitted against each other, a Giaconda, a Leeuwin Estate, and a Meursault.
Saturday, September 19, 2020
Grenache is experiencing a renaissance, not just because it was International Grenache Day yesterday. The flavour profile appeals, and the wines are not as heavy and serious as, say, Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz. Here are some Grenache and Grenache infused wines I tasted a couple of days ago.
Having said this, the 2010 Chateau de Beaucastel is quite a massive Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This wine is still bright. The raspberry and cranberry flavours shine through. There is licorice as well. The tannins are soft. However, the wine is a little hot on the finish (93 points).
The 2010 Alegre Valgañón Garnacha from Rioja demonstrates some of the challenges with Grenache. This wine has some herbal and eucalypt characteristics, which comes when the wine is picked a bit early out of fear it might get too alcoholic otherwise. The signature raspberry fruit is there, but also some black fruited notes and leather. This is quite a complex wine, mature, and no doubt based on very old vines (94 points).
Marco Cirillo is my favorite Grenache producer in Australia (there are a couple of serious challengers emerging). He has been focused on this variety from the beginning tending to his fabulous sandy soils vineyard in Vine Vale. The 2012 Cirillo 1850 Grenache is based on perhaps the oldest Grenache vines in the world. This wine is hugely perfumed. The raspberry flavours are very clean and pure supported by savoury characteristics. This is a luscious wine with a long finish (96 points).
The 2009 Château de Fonsalette Réservé Côtes du Rhône is the most expensive wine in this line-up. I found it a bit disappointing. While it had a sweet fruit core, the overwhelming impression evolved from vegetable and herbal notes with tomato and anise flavours quite prominant (90 points).
A positive surprise was the 2012 Domaine Léon Barral Faugères 'Jadis'. Faugères is a subregion in the Languedoc with special red sand and limestone soils. The vineyard is biodynamically managed. This wine is a blend of 50% Carignan, 30% Shiraz, 20% Grenache. This wine is very bright and fresh, with ripe raspberry and dark fruit, and a big mouthfeel. This is quite a funky wine, bold and dense. There is a higher acidity in this wine than in many Grenaches and the tannins are dry. Well managed Carignan appears to be the major contributor to this profile (94 points).
Wednesday, September 16, 2020
I have reported on this wine before, its strange label, and the logic of the Schubert Theorem. A little while ago, I wrote a comprehensive review of the stunning 2018 wines by The Standish Wine Company. So this review of the 2010 The Schubert Theorem is to partly predict how the 2018 wines may look in 10 years time.
The colour of this wine is close to black, very inky. There is no sign of ageing in the colour (the wine is bottled under cork with a wax seal). It is full-bodied, with big fruit weight, and filling the mouth easily in all directions. In other words, the structure is massive. Ripe plum, but also some blue fruit notes and redcurrant and raspberry flavours deliver a complex fruit taste. Marmalade hints at some secondary flavours, but fruit still very much dominates. Oak is in the background.
This is a powerful and ripe wine, but still energetic with enough acidity to drive the wine forward down the palate. The finish is long. This wine will live well easily for another 10 years, maybe peaking in five.
My sense is that the 2018s are perhaps a bit more nuanced and energetic, but this 2010 is a shining example of a big Barossa wine with good drinkability.
Monday, September 7, 2020
When a friend of mine presented a bottle of 1990 Dom Perignon with the words 'I don't think this has always been stored properly', we were both more than sceptical.
Tuesday, September 1, 2020
I recently tasted three Bordeaux wines from the highly regarded 2005 vintage.