It is not a secret, but it is not widely known that since 2017, Kilikanoon is 80% owned by Changyu, China's largest wine company. Kilikanoon was only formed in 1997, but since then had a turbulent history. At some stage, the owners also owned the majority of Seppeltsfield, but now it has withdrawn from the Barossa and is firmly focused on Clare Valley. Winemaking has moved on from founder Kevin Mitchell to Peter Warr, who I met with on my last stop in the Clare.
The tasting was wide ranging. I will focus on red wines here. First: Grenache. The blue label depicts entry level wine. The 2019 Prodigal Grenache shows interesting blueberry flavours. It is quite a structural wine, with acidity and oak quite noticeable (91 points). More winemaking comes into play with the black label. The 2018 Duke's Reserve is a full-bodied wine with blackcurrant, mushroom and earthy notes prominent. No raspberry in sight - unexpected, but good (93 points). The highlight of this bracket comes from the grey label, which indicates old vines. The 2020 Walton 1946 Grenache is quite outstanding. 30% wholebunch contributes to a smooth wine, not as worked as the previous wine, with layers of red and blue fruit (95 points). Kilikanoon has clearly jumped on the Grenache wave we currently experience. And there is more. The 2018 Baudinet GSM is quite dark and fruity (92 points).
We then move on to the fuller bodied Rhone varieties. First, the 2020 Ashton 1920 Mataro, from 100 year old vines. A number of wineries in South Australia now make straight Mataro, and it is an interesting addition. This wine is dark fruited with blood orange flavours as well. The wine is slaty and earthy, yet surprisingly elegant (93 points).
The first Shiraz is the 2018 Covernant. Blackberry and cassis deliver a typical palate. The wine is dynamic driven by these flavours. Firm tannins are well integrated (91 points). This contrast with the 2016 Oracle, the flagship wine made by the old regime. This wine is very concentrated and rich. Raspberry and blackberry flavours deliver a jammy mouthfeel. The French oak is also very noticeable - a not perfectly executed Parker wine (89/-). And this contrast with the 2018 Morrison Shiraz/Cabernet. This wine is concentrated as well, but it is lively and driven by fruit. Red and black fruit flavours are nicely layered (95 points).
Finally, two straight Cabernet Sauvignons. The entry level 2018 Block Roads Cabernet Sauvignon shows the variety so well: redcurrant, capsicum, tomato leaf and chocmint (93 points). A big step up, and an outstanding wine is the 2018 Tregea Reserve. It has a similar profile, but is more detailed, making this a complex wine. It is softer and powdery, delivering layers of flavour as the wine rolls down the palate (96 points).
Overall, this was a very interesting tasting. The new, more fruit focussed direction is delivering some excellent wines.
1 comment:
good writeup Thomas, Kilikanoon is interesting to say the least.
The Tregea is really quite good.
Post a Comment