On day two in the Barossa, I kicked off with Brothers At War. The Wardlaw brothers have different preferences in wine, one favouring the bigger Barossa Valley wines, the other the sleeker Eden Valley wines. Again, my tasting was extensive, and I need to summarize somewhat.
The two Rieslings from the Eden Valley, the 2021 The Grape Grower, and the 2021 Nothing In Common, were excellent. The first is very delicate, with lime fruit and light acidity. The second is firmer, with more depth of fruit (both 92 points).
Then we come to the red wines of the family range and the premium range. I tasted the 2020 Some Other Guy GSM, the 2020 The Old Man Eden Valley Syrah, the 2020 I'm Always Right Eden Valley Cabernet, and the 2020 Fist Fight Barossa Shiraz. These wines are all quite fruit forward. They do not have enough structure for me (86 to 90 points).
I have similar issues with the 2020 Single Vineyard Eden Valley Mataro and the 2020 Single Vineyard Syrah. These wines come from the Pendee Farm vineyard in Springton. The Syrah is very austere, and the mouthfeel thin, the Mataro is dominated by strong coarse tannins (90 points).
I preferred the 2020 Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Shiraz from a 60 year old Lyndoch vineyard. It is red fruited, infused with some mocca notes, still made in a fresh style with firm acidity (93 points).
Some production notes, not sure you can read them
The star of the tasting was the 2021 Single Vineyard Eden Valley Grenache. It comes from the 160 year old Stonegarden vineyard (there it is again!). 50% whole bunch is used in this wine. Red cherry, and a little fruity raspberry and cranberry flavours open up beautifully on the back palate, supported by silky tannins (95 points).
The final wine is the 2018 Icon Eden Valley Syrah/Grenache. 'Icon' seems a bit rich for a wine nobody knows. This wine has more concentration, but shows still fresh raspberry and red cherry flavours. The barnyard notes, which I have not tasted in a wine for some time, are not out of place. The finish is quite long (94 points).
My next visit is to Eisenstone. There are a couple of things I like about this new winery from the start. This winery makes only Shiraz; focus until you master it! Secondly, it labels one series of wines by subregion, and a second by special vineyards. Stephen Cook used my book on Barossa Shiraz to develop his approach!
The first wine I taste is the 2019 Ebenezer Shiraz. The fruit comes from the famous Hoffmann vineyard. It is a mix of 1965 Dallwitz fruit (also used by Sami-Odi) and young vines. All wines are matured in French oak, this one has 50% new. There are blackcurrant, blueberry and some mocca flavours on the palate. The fruit weight is good. Savoury notes come from the oak. The wine tastes long in the mouth (93 points). The 2019 Hoffmann Single Vineyard Shiraz wine is similar in style, with red and black fruit flavours. The wine is more opulent, yet quite elegant with good complexity. This is a classic full-bodied Barossa Shiraz (95 points). The 2019 Roenfeld Rd. Shiraz, from the vineyard which also produces the new Opulus label, is surprisingly aromatic, but the structure is quite tight and linear (92 points).
The 2020 wines, from a more difficult vintage, appear more generous, with a lighter touch perhaps. The 2020 Gomersal Shiraz is lively and fruity with blackberry and blueberry flavours (93 points). The 2020 Koonanga Shiraz, from the Beckers vineyard) is very dark with mocca notes - a typical Northern Barossa Shiraz (94 points). The 2020 Hoffmann Single Vineyard Shiraz is the star of this line-up. It has a big mouthfeel, with blackberry and blueberry flavours. A very opulent wine with some lifted character and finely grained, yet firm tannins (96 points).
The style of this winery is classic Barossa Shiraz with excellent fruit sources. The winemaking could lighten up a bit more. The addition of acidity feels a little forced and not totally harmonious. It will be interesting to see the wines of 2021, when vintage conditions were perfect.
My final tasting was with Dave Powell of ??? After leaving Torbreck, he formed Powell & Son. This went well for a few years, before he had a falling out with Callum Powell. Callum now makes lighter style wines under the Agricola label. Dave Powell is still being pursued for using his own name by the Torbreck owners. So he now formed Neldner Road. However, some wines are still marketed under Powell & Son.
The first wine is the 2018 Barossa Valley GSM. It is a classical blend with 60% Grenache. This wine is very fresh, very drinkable with great texture. The wine is quite fruit orientated with darker flavours than typical for Grenache. The wine has good length, like a Torbreck Steading from a good year (94 points). The 2019 Barossa Shiraz spends 18 months in French foudres. It is very dark, with chocolate flavours dominant. This wine is great value for money (93 points). The 2019 Neldner Barossa and Eden Valleys Shiraz is like the Struie. Matured in foudres as well, the Eden Valley component shines through, with lifted aromatics and blue fruit (94 points).
My second favourite of the line-up is the 2019 Loechel Eden Valley Shiraz. This wine sees 67% new oak, matured in barriques. The vineyard soil is predominantly granite. This is a full-flavoured wine, but it has an element of lightness. The wine is elegant with great length (96 points). The 2019 Kalimna Shiraz, from 80 year old vines, is a good counter point. This wine has big fruit weight and quite coarse tannins - the big Barossa (94 points).
The 2018 Chatterton Shiraz comes from four Barossa and two Eden Valley vineyards. All vines are more than 100 years old, and the sources are largely the same as what David used for RunRig. The wine spends two years in French new oak. I found this wine already quite drinkable. The wine arrives in distinctive layers on the palate. The wine is rich, but is slightly lifted as well. It is beautifully crafted (96 points). It is tough for the 2017 Kleinig Mataro to follow. This wine displays typical Mataro flavours of meat, earth, and spice. It has a surprising fresh and expanding finish - really nice (94 points).
When you taste David Powell wines you know what to expect. There is a widespread view that his wines are too big to be enjoyed by more than a glass. I found these wines quite drinkable, however, and the winemaking is first class.
This ends the Barossa trip. I enjoyed many beautiful wines. There is a widening of styles and a new excitement in the valley, and some notable evolution at Penfolds. One thing has to be said. Most wines tasted here above 93 points are $80/bottle or more. Enjoying good wine has become quite expensive.
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