Tuesday, May 3, 2022

The Standish Wine Company - The 2020s Released Today

 Dan Standish, with his last two releases, has achieved the trifecta of power, elegance, and drive in his wines. The 2020 vintage threw up a particular challenge. It was the second drought year; even old vines start to struggle then. Yields are low, only a couple hundred kg/acre, as opposed to the standard low 1/2t/acre. The harvest was 80% below normal. As a result, the skin to pulp ratio of the grapes is high, and the risk of harvesting grapes with port-like flavours is real. Dan Standish told me a year ago, there would only be one wine. Things must have improved, because four wines will be released today. I decanted these wines 5 hours before tasting, assuming they would be big and concentrated, and tasted over two days.


Tasting these wines, two facts stand out: they have kept their specific brand profiles, but also, there is a wider quality difference, in my opinion, between the wines than in the last couple of years.

I started with the 2020 The Relic. This is the wine with the 1% Viognier component. It is hardly noticeable, much less than in the Clonakilla or the RunRig. The flavours of this wine jump out of the glass. It is red fruited, but darker on day two of tasting the wine. The wine is surprisingly fresh, but most flavour is on the front palate. It is an elegant wine, but it felt a little unsettled. This wine from the Krondorf vineyard is always first to be picked. But was this picked too early? There is a herbal character to the wine, and a bit of greenness. The tannins are not as fine and ripe as in the other wines. Maybe because there are less whole clusters in this wine? I did not warm to this wine as much, although it had drive and power and could do really well in a few years.

Score: 94/+

Next came the 2020 The Standish. The fruit is much darker; blackberry and mulberry flavours, violets, and shaved pencil. This wine has a lot of depth and purity, and is lively and energetic. Mocca flavours add to the complexity. The mouthfeel is brilliant. It is mellow, with silky tannins and a velvety finish. The wine glides down the palate in perfect harmony. It will age for a long time, but is already quite approachable.

Score: 99/+++

The 2020 The Schubert Theorem is the biggest of these wines, as expected. The colour is very dark, almost black, and the nose quite perfumed. The fruit weight is high and ripe. Blackcurrant, black liquorice, black olive, deeply layered - you get the picture. This is a broad shouldered, masculine wine with a huge structure, very tannic. It left my mouth quite dry. Still, the wine is not overripe and quite balanced.

Score: 96/++

The 2020 Lamella from the Hutton Farm vineyard at Eden Valley is very elegant. It is mostly blue fruited, very smooth and balanced. It is perhaps the antithesis to The Schubert Theorem in the context of Dan Standish's winemaking. The higher level of acidity is noticeable, but it gets caught by the firm tannin structure on the long finish. 

Score: 97/+++ 

Overall, this is another great set of Standish wines. If you are looking for more linear wines with drive, you go for The Relic or The Standish. If you enjoy a big, fat mouthfeel, you opt for The Schubert Theorem. If you enjoy more acidity, the Lamella is your wine. 



 

7 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hi Thomas, thanks for this - it's a relief to hear they generally remain of very high quality despite the vintage challenges (go Dan!)...I bought more than I normally would today given its a birth year wine for our young one! Sounds like age will be kind to them.

Anonymous said...

Hi Thomas,
What specifics can you provide on the stated abv of each wine?
Regards
Colin

Alontin said...

Hi Colin,The abv stated on each wine is 14.9%. This is peculiar for a couple of reasons. I cannot believe they are all the same, and clearly Dan Standish wanted it to be under 15%. Given you can have 1.5%age variation, the stated numbers are almost meaningless. Unfortunately, I forgot to raise this with Dan Standish when I talked to him. Having said this, I did not detect any hotness in the wines, other than a little bit on the finish of The Relic.

Erin Larkin did a nice 20min video review of the wines. Our assessments were quite similar other than for the Relic, which she thought was the best ever, and probably the best in the lineup. She felt the integration between the Viognier and the Shiraz worked well, whereas I felt the wine was a bit unsettled and not totally balanced. Dan Standish admitted to me that their could have been some greenness on the palate as well. Different assessments on wine are legitimate!

Anonymous said...

Thanks Thomas
Yes, I watched E.L’s reviews and as you know she does them annually. I often wondered about Barossa winemakers aversion to avoiding the 15% figure abv. Thank you for the detail.

Anonymous said...

Hi Thomas,
No doubt the ‘21 reviews aren’t far away?
Regards
Colin

Alontin said...

Yes, should be coming soon

Anonymous said...

When you do review the ‘21 releases would it be possible for you to include some comments on the higher than usual abv? That is, why is it so and how it presents on the palate to you.

Thankyou
Colin