Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Felton Road Block 5 Pinot Noir

Felton Road is to Central Otago what Cullen or Moss Wood is to Margaret River: one of the early producers with very high quality year in, year out. I can attest to this, as I have been on Felton Road's mailing list for many years.

The Block 5 is one of the three Pinot's produced for many years now. It is the darkest in colour and the most brooding of the trio, which also includes Block 3 and the regular Estate wine.

Today, I opened a bottle of the 2002 Felton Road Block 5 Pinot Noir. The colour looks fresh and the wine is still very vibrant, helped by a srewcap closure. The black cherry flavours still dominate, but secondary savoury flavours, speaking of the vineyard, are also present. The flavours are well integrated, and oak is in the background. So far, so good.

But then comes the problem for which Central Otago Pinots' are well known for. They open beautifully, but lack in length, certainly don't produce the Burgundy fan. You could not say this wine has no structure, as it is holding up very well, but the lack of mouthfeel on the back palate and finish seriously compromises the quality and reduces the excitement from this bottle (measured against what should be the lightning rod of the district).

Score: 93/--

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