I have never been able to taste Penfolds' original Bin 60A from the 1962 vintage. The wine was never commercially released, but won many awards and by many wine critics is described as Australia's greatest wine. The Bin 60A label has only been used one more time, for a wine from the 2004 vintage, which showed similar characteristics to 1962. I tasted the 2004 Penfolds Bin 60A a few days ago. The wine is the same blend of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon (56%) and Barossa Shiraz (44%).
I start by saying this wine bowled me over from the get go. Perfumed forest aromas rise from the glass. The palate is still youthful. The terra rossa soil based blackcurrants shine. The Barossa fruit brings additional weight and some sweetness, but this is never overbearing (alc. 13.5%). The savoury aspects taste of cedar, lead pencil shavings, licorice, and game. There is intensity in this wine, but also surprising lightness. It takes 'harmonious' to another level. Penfolds is known more for power than elegance, but this is a very elegant wine. The mouthfeel is rounded and almost silky. The dry, fine-grained tannins lead to a very long finish, which leaves earthy flavours in the mouth.
This wine will last much longer, but now, after 20 years, is perhaps the ideal time to drink it. Fruit and savoury flavours are in perfect balance.
Score: 100/+++
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