Elio Grasso, over the last 20 years, has risen to the top echelon of Barolo producers. Not insignificantly, this is due to the excellent vineyard sites. At the same time, the wines are still affordable (sort of, and compared with peers).
The Ginestra vineyard sits close to the bottom of Monforte. The Casa Maté part of it is situated in the lower part of the vineyard and known for producing elegant wines. For the 2012 Elio Grasso Ginestra Casa Maté two things fortuitously have come together. The propensity to produce elegant wines and a vintage which has been described as producing the greatest finesse and red fruit orientation over the last 20 years.
Perfumed notes rise from the glass, red cherry is the dominant fruit element, but there is also an earthy and mineral component, like a umami flavour in this wine. The body is lighter than usual, and the mouthfeel is very elegant, like from an excellent Burgundy Pinot Noir . The tannins are fine, and the structure will deliver joy for those who want to drink this wine in 10 years time. This is a good example that power is not required for longevity.
Score: 95/+++
1 comment:
Great review, looks like an excellent wine. The currently available vintage is 2018, some reports say it is similar to 2012 but highly variable in quality i.e. some very good wines, other not so much. Therefore the challenge as usual is that having not tasted the 2018 vintage, should one take a punt on buying even from a trusted producer like this?
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