Up to about 30 years ago, Priorat was a run down region with a lot of poverty and no significant investment in vineyards or winemaking. Then a number of winemakers realized the great history and potential of this area. A group of five wineries moved away from bulk production and planted new vineyards with an interest in single vineyard wines. In the meantime, Chateauneuf-du-Pape had become the epicenter for Grenache. But Priorat started to fight back. And as proud Catalans, they spell their wine Garnatxa. The following mini tasting takes a look at the current state of play.
The 2020 Sara i Rene Dido Garnatxa Tinto is an entry level style wine, but made by two of the famous five, Réné Barbier of Clos Mogador and his wife Sara Perez of Mas Martinet. The Grenache dominant blend is grown on limestone soil. They farm biodynamically. The wine impresses with its pure fruit and elegance. It is not as concentrated as the following wines.
Score: 91/+
The 2020 Mas Doix 'Les Crestes' Poboleda Garnatxa is made from younger vines. The vines are grown on soft powdery brown slate. The flavours show the unique profile of Priorat Grenache. This is not so much raspberry, and it is not sweet. Dark cherry and boysenberry is what I taste. This is a powerful wine with bigger weight than the first wine and more grip than the third, yet impressive silky tannins. I love this wine.
Score: 95/+++
No Priorat tasting is complete without a wine from its superstar, Alvaro Palacios. The 2019 Alvaro Palacios Les Terrases Garnatxa-Carinyena is a blend from an astonishing 80 plots across 8 different villages. The common denominator is the black slate on which the vines are grown. It has similar fruit flavours to the previous wine. The structure is not as big, with a focus on elegance. It is a driven wine, still powerful and a little rustic.
Score: 94/++
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