This will be a more radical review of this highly acclaimed wine - a perspective you may not find on commercial review sites. The review is for the 2014 by Farr Farrside Pinot Noir.
The colour of this wine is purple with a brown-orange overlay. It looks like this wine is quite developed already.
But what is more significant is the flavour of this wine, whose grapes are grown on a vineyard of dark volcanic soils. On the palate, this is a very savoury wine, not in a forest floor way, but in a uncharacteristically masculine and powerful way for a Pinot Noir. The flavours are of black olive, licorice, smoke and charcoal meat. There are saline notes on the back palate. There is nothing wrong with this profile in principle, but is this what a Pinot Noir should taste like? It is certainly quite extreme and would split consumers of fine Pinot Noir.
Score: 94/0
3 comments:
I had a 2010 Farrside last week, tasting note and impression similar to you. Was not that attracted to the wine, and ended up pouring half of it down the sink after a couple of days.
Seems to be an all too common trait amongst Oz Pinot Noir, though there are some exceptions. Epis Pinot Noir from Macedon is a personal favourite.
As an observation, not a criticism of any reviews whatsoever, I’m continually puzzled by the positive reviews received by these Australian Shiraz like Pinots.
While the reviews of the wine use descriptors I’d expect to see in Shiraz, I would identify this same descriptor as a potential fault in Pinot, this doesn’t always seem to be reflected in the score?
Thomas, am I missing something?
Thanks
Colin
Epis is great, but not easy to source. The Macedon Ranges are fast becoming a hotbed for good Pinot Noir.
I don’t think you are missing anything. Pinot Noirs from the Mornington Peninsula and Central Otago are prime examples of what you are talking about. I can see why they appeal to Shiraz drinkers who are ‘over’ very ripe Shiraz, but they do not show Pinot Noir typicity as a general rule. It is strange, though. There are some such wines which are really well made, such as Felton Road or Mt. Maude. And the argument is, why should they be like a Burgundy. However, Pinot Noir at its peak is red fruited with an expanding finish and an ethereal quality, in my opinion.
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