Monday, January 19, 2009

Torbreck 'The Struie' Shiraz

The 2002 Struie is certainly a big, meaty wine.

Since David Powell of Torbreck appeared on the scene, he has split the wine world. He is loved in America, where they like our Shiraz big, alcoholic and sweet, and is criticised by some of our influencial wine writers for producing wine which will not age, lack structure and is not very grape specific.

The facts are that it is not that simple. He purchases top class fruit, and while the wines are big, they are elegant and carry velvet tannins. In this way, he has no doubt moved the Barossa forward.

This Struie has good mouthfeel and carries the significant fruit volume through to the back palate. It has good length and finishes with smooth tannins. To me, the wine combines great strength and fruit concentration with great elegance. You would want a substantial meal with this substantial wine.

For the record: this wine will last many more years

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