Every now and then a quote sticks to a winery. So it is with Spinifex when James Halliday said it out-torbrecks Torbreck. What is Torbreck known for? Predominantly the incredible richness of its wines and how David Powell managed to jack up the prices for his Barossa Shiraz. Now Spinifex does none of this. Peter Schell picks the grapes early, the wines are not very ripe, and the prices are moderate by comparison. So what does this comment mean? Beats me, but it gets repeated time and time again.
I recently tasted three Spinifex wines from 2010. The 2010 Spinifex Bete Noir is perhaps its only wine not consisting of more than one grape variety. This 100% Shiraz comes 60% from Eden Valley and 40% from the Eastern slopes of the Barossa, i.e. grapes grown at higher altitudes. As a result, the wine has cooler climate characteristics: it is savoury and peppery. The wine is vibrant and fresh. It has medium weight and good length (93 points).
The 2010 Spinifex Indigene consists of 70% Mataro and 30% Shiraz. This has been my favorite in a number of years, but not in 2010. The Mataro is very strong and dominant and as a result, the wine is quite tannic and acidic with a slightly harsh finish. It may be that the wine will mellow nicely, as the underlying fruit is good, but at this point, I rate it 91 points.
The 2010 Spinifex La Mouline is the pick of the bunch. This wine used to be a Shiraz/Viognier, but in this year it is 97% Shiraz and 3% Roussanne. I think this has been a master stroke. Rather than adding floral notes, the Roussanne adds weight and complexity. This wine is very elegant, as the plum and red berry flavours roll down the palate.The wine has a dry finish and considerable length - very appealing (95 points).
Monday, October 8, 2012
Sunday, October 7, 2012
Clonakilla New Releases
Listening to Tim Kirk, Clonakilla's winemaker, is always very interesting. Not only is he a very intelligent person, but also a very good marketer. Yet in contrast to the spin employed by many of his colleagues, he prefers to 'under-promise and over-deliver'. So you listen to all the challenges that Clonakilla had to face in 2011 and 2012 and then get to a set of very good wines. Sure, he has done better, but these are very worth while wines.
The 2012 Clonakilla Canberra District Riesling comes from a wet year. The wine is citrussy and floral, quite zingy with acid covering the small amount of residual sugar. It is not is the class of a top Clare Riesling, but a refreshing wine with a clean finish (90 points).
The 2011 Clonakilla Canberra District Viognier is a welcome departure from other 'fatty' Viogniers. It shows the expected apricot flavours, but the wine is quite linear and not big. There are traces of oak in this wine and it finishes with a good round mouthfeel. I am not sure that it is Australia's best Viognier, as it is sometimes claimed, but it is certainly a good one (92 points).
The 2011 Clonakilla O'Riada Shiraz is made in the same way as the famous Shiraz/Viognier, but the fruit comes from other growers around Canberra. This wine is incredibly peppery and savoury and quite strong. Underneath sits beautiful red berry fruit. 2011 delivers a lighter style, but not a watery wine and the tannins deliver good length (93 points).
The 2011 Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier is still peppery, but the flavours are rounder than in the O'Riada. The wine is very elegant and harmonious, dominated by red berry flavours. This wine will live a long, long time. This wine rates very high on clarity, grace, balance, deliciousness, modesty and paradox. The paradox is the lighter style, yet intensity of the wine. It would rate a bit lower on distinctiveness, persistence and complexity (95 points).
In this tasting, I 'got' the Clonakilla wine style. The wines are about beauty. The French would call them feminine wines, but they are more than that (see above).
The 2012 Clonakilla Canberra District Riesling comes from a wet year. The wine is citrussy and floral, quite zingy with acid covering the small amount of residual sugar. It is not is the class of a top Clare Riesling, but a refreshing wine with a clean finish (90 points).
The 2011 Clonakilla Canberra District Viognier is a welcome departure from other 'fatty' Viogniers. It shows the expected apricot flavours, but the wine is quite linear and not big. There are traces of oak in this wine and it finishes with a good round mouthfeel. I am not sure that it is Australia's best Viognier, as it is sometimes claimed, but it is certainly a good one (92 points).
The 2011 Clonakilla O'Riada Shiraz is made in the same way as the famous Shiraz/Viognier, but the fruit comes from other growers around Canberra. This wine is incredibly peppery and savoury and quite strong. Underneath sits beautiful red berry fruit. 2011 delivers a lighter style, but not a watery wine and the tannins deliver good length (93 points).
The 2011 Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier is still peppery, but the flavours are rounder than in the O'Riada. The wine is very elegant and harmonious, dominated by red berry flavours. This wine will live a long, long time. This wine rates very high on clarity, grace, balance, deliciousness, modesty and paradox. The paradox is the lighter style, yet intensity of the wine. It would rate a bit lower on distinctiveness, persistence and complexity (95 points).
In this tasting, I 'got' the Clonakilla wine style. The wines are about beauty. The French would call them feminine wines, but they are more than that (see above).
Saturday, October 6, 2012
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc has been the crown of creation of the Marlborough onslaught on the rest of the world. The 2011 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc is special, too, although not quite in the same class as some previous years.
The flavours are herbaceous, but not overly so. Hay and asparagus rather than green grass. The fruit is lime and some guava, I think, rather than gooseberry. The best is the dry finish.
If you must drink Sauvignon Blanc, you could do worse than this Cloudy Bay, in fact you probably would.
Score: 89/+
The flavours are herbaceous, but not overly so. Hay and asparagus rather than green grass. The fruit is lime and some guava, I think, rather than gooseberry. The best is the dry finish.
If you must drink Sauvignon Blanc, you could do worse than this Cloudy Bay, in fact you probably would.
Score: 89/+
Thursday, October 4, 2012
Chateau Lynch-Bages
Chateau Lynch-Bages is one of those Estates which clearly punches above the weight of its classification (5th growth). Finding such wines is often a good opportunity, but in this case, the word is truly out, and it is reflected in the price.
The 2000 Lynch-Bages, at 12 years of age, is still youthful, but drinking well now. This is a full bodied Cabernet blend, classically proportioned. The blackcurrant flavours are intense, even dense, but not overripe. The wine is not heavy. The flavours go down the palate, unchanged from start to a lengthy finish. This is quite a linear wine despite its weight. Silky tannins engulf the fruit flavours elegantly.
Using the descriptors I have discussed a few weeks ago, this wine rates very high on clarity, distinctiveness, grace, balance, deliciousness and persistence, and a bit lower on complexity, modesty and low on paradox.
Score: 96/+++
The 2000 Lynch-Bages, at 12 years of age, is still youthful, but drinking well now. This is a full bodied Cabernet blend, classically proportioned. The blackcurrant flavours are intense, even dense, but not overripe. The wine is not heavy. The flavours go down the palate, unchanged from start to a lengthy finish. This is quite a linear wine despite its weight. Silky tannins engulf the fruit flavours elegantly.
Using the descriptors I have discussed a few weeks ago, this wine rates very high on clarity, distinctiveness, grace, balance, deliciousness and persistence, and a bit lower on complexity, modesty and low on paradox.
Score: 96/+++
Wednesday, September 26, 2012
Occam's Razor Shiraz
Emily Laughton has to be one of the nicest and most generous wine makers alive. I was scheduled for a tasting at Jasper Hill several years ago, but at the last minute, Ron and his wife could not make it. They asked daughter Emily to do it in their place. She had to drive back from Melbourne to Heathcote after she had attended a pop festival and had two hours sleep. So there she was, on a Sunday, slightly hung over, going through the wines with great enthusiasm. She gave us all the opened bottles "nobody else coming today" and then asked where we would have dinner. This was not a silly question for Heathcote in those years and on a Sunday. We were not sure. She then offered us lamb chops from the freezer. This was too much, we had to decline, and yes we did manage to find some food. Also, I had to buy a few bottles of her own wine.
Occam's Razor is not such a bad name - it means in layman terms: if in doubt keep it simple. The 2005 Occam's Razor Shiraz is a full bodied wine, showing concentrated plum and blackberry flavours. The fruit is not as pristine and concentrated as the Georgia's Paddock or as complex as Emily's Paddock (get it?), but it is an agreeable wine. Earthy flavours have developed, and the 15% alcohol are carried by fruit and firm tannins. The structure is good and while not overly elegant, the wine is not hot.
Score: 91/+
Occam's Razor is not such a bad name - it means in layman terms: if in doubt keep it simple. The 2005 Occam's Razor Shiraz is a full bodied wine, showing concentrated plum and blackberry flavours. The fruit is not as pristine and concentrated as the Georgia's Paddock or as complex as Emily's Paddock (get it?), but it is an agreeable wine. Earthy flavours have developed, and the 15% alcohol are carried by fruit and firm tannins. The structure is good and while not overly elegant, the wine is not hot.
Score: 91/+
Monday, September 24, 2012
Rieslings from 2012
I have been impressed with eight Rieslings from the 2012 vintage I recently tasted. There were quite significant differences between the wines, though.
The 2012 Larry Cherubino Ad Hoc Wallflower and the 2012 O'Leary Walker Polish Hill showed less fruit and volume than the other Rieslings. They were both quite dry and not as linear as I would have liked. However, both wines would be good summer lunch drinking ( 89 and 88 points).
The 2012 Clos Clare Riesling from the famous Florita vineyard and the 2012 Grosset Springvale Riesling are more floral than the first two wines. Both are based on citrus, but softer wines. I found the Grosset a bit fruity, but showing great purity (92 and 92 points). The KT Peglidis, also from Watervale, was tighter with a strong fruit core (92 points).
The 2012 Henschke Julius Riesling from Eden Valley had almost no colour. A light wine with quite an acidic aftertaste (90 points).
The 2012 Grosset Polish Hill is indeed a special wine, as a number of reviewers have pointed out. The citrus flavours are very clean, linear and focussed. The wine has incredible length for a Riesling. It drinks well now, but I would suggest to drink half of a case in one year, as a young wine, and half starting in 8-10 years (96 points).
An interesting wine is the 2012 Grosset Alea Off Dry. This wine is broader, with a complex flavour spectrum from citrus to orange peel. The wine is not sweet by any means and has a long finish. This is a very interesting wine, different from the 'dry Australian' mould, but not 'sweet Germanic' either (93 points).
The 2012 Larry Cherubino Ad Hoc Wallflower and the 2012 O'Leary Walker Polish Hill showed less fruit and volume than the other Rieslings. They were both quite dry and not as linear as I would have liked. However, both wines would be good summer lunch drinking ( 89 and 88 points).
The 2012 Clos Clare Riesling from the famous Florita vineyard and the 2012 Grosset Springvale Riesling are more floral than the first two wines. Both are based on citrus, but softer wines. I found the Grosset a bit fruity, but showing great purity (92 and 92 points). The KT Peglidis, also from Watervale, was tighter with a strong fruit core (92 points).
The 2012 Henschke Julius Riesling from Eden Valley had almost no colour. A light wine with quite an acidic aftertaste (90 points).
The 2012 Grosset Polish Hill is indeed a special wine, as a number of reviewers have pointed out. The citrus flavours are very clean, linear and focussed. The wine has incredible length for a Riesling. It drinks well now, but I would suggest to drink half of a case in one year, as a young wine, and half starting in 8-10 years (96 points).
An interesting wine is the 2012 Grosset Alea Off Dry. This wine is broader, with a complex flavour spectrum from citrus to orange peel. The wine is not sweet by any means and has a long finish. This is a very interesting wine, different from the 'dry Australian' mould, but not 'sweet Germanic' either (93 points).
Monday, September 17, 2012
The Value of Vintage Ratings
My recent experiences raise the question of the value of vintage ratings. My observations are that they are not very reliable, maybe even misleading.
For example, in my recent tastings, I found the 2001 wines quite good, whereas the 2002 Mount Edelstone was over the hill (pardon the pun). Initially, nobody talked about the quality of 2001, but wine writers raved about 2002. It is clear that warmer vintages, with more initial appeal and ripeness get higher ratings. This does not mean that they produce better wines.
A major example of this trend was the 2000 vintage in Piedmont. It initially received 100 points by Wine Spectator and was hailed the best vintage in Italy ever. At a tasting a little while ago, it was revised down to 93 points, as the wines were found a little forward and not so well structured as in other years.
For those who can remember, the same happened with 1990 in Australia. Later, many writers found wines from 1991 better structured (although it must be said that 1990 produced some excellent wines).
The other argument against vintage ratings, of course, is that there is a lot of variation between wineries and vineyards.
So why do we have vintage ratings and why do they seem to be influential? One reason, I suspect, is that winemakers often rate the last vintage the best ever and if the weather was hot, the grapes got in just before the heatwave and if the weather was cold, the grapes got extra hang time etc. You can't really blame the wineries, they need to market their product, but vintage ratings are probably not a good counter balance.
The best test is your own taste. Before you commit to a case, buy a bottle. And once you have gained some experience, you will be able to tell which characteristics might serve a wine well in the future.
For example, in my recent tastings, I found the 2001 wines quite good, whereas the 2002 Mount Edelstone was over the hill (pardon the pun). Initially, nobody talked about the quality of 2001, but wine writers raved about 2002. It is clear that warmer vintages, with more initial appeal and ripeness get higher ratings. This does not mean that they produce better wines.
A major example of this trend was the 2000 vintage in Piedmont. It initially received 100 points by Wine Spectator and was hailed the best vintage in Italy ever. At a tasting a little while ago, it was revised down to 93 points, as the wines were found a little forward and not so well structured as in other years.
For those who can remember, the same happened with 1990 in Australia. Later, many writers found wines from 1991 better structured (although it must be said that 1990 produced some excellent wines).
The other argument against vintage ratings, of course, is that there is a lot of variation between wineries and vineyards.
So why do we have vintage ratings and why do they seem to be influential? One reason, I suspect, is that winemakers often rate the last vintage the best ever and if the weather was hot, the grapes got in just before the heatwave and if the weather was cold, the grapes got extra hang time etc. You can't really blame the wineries, they need to market their product, but vintage ratings are probably not a good counter balance.
The best test is your own taste. Before you commit to a case, buy a bottle. And once you have gained some experience, you will be able to tell which characteristics might serve a wine well in the future.
Henschke Mount Edelstone 2001
After having experienced the quite rapid ripening of the 2002 Mount Edelstone, I decided to open a 2001 Henschke Mount Edelstone, the oldest vintage I still have.
The fruit in this wine is not as intense as in the 2002, but there is sufficient complexity with smoky and meaty flavours delivering a good balance. The structure of the wine is good, with firm tannins and underlying acidity. This wine is not super elegant, but expressive and well suited to slow cooked meat dishes.
Score: 91/+
The fruit in this wine is not as intense as in the 2002, but there is sufficient complexity with smoky and meaty flavours delivering a good balance. The structure of the wine is good, with firm tannins and underlying acidity. This wine is not super elegant, but expressive and well suited to slow cooked meat dishes.
Score: 91/+
Wednesday, September 12, 2012
Torbreck Les Amis
Continuing my 2001 theme, I opened a bottle of the Torbreck Les Amis Grenache. Maybe I should not have, as this was my last bottle from 2001, the first vintage of this wine. This wine is rare in Australia, as it was originally made for and shipped to a restaurant in Singapore.
Dave Powell, Torbeck's owner and winemaker, specializes in Rhone varieties. While he is probably best known for his powerful Shirazes, I think his special skill is with Grenache. His other popular Grenache is the GSM blend 'The Steading'. He manages to make very profound wines from this variety. Les Amis is a single vineyard wine, made from old dry grown bush vines in Marananga/Seppeltsfield.
This 2001 Les Amis tastes of raspberry and earthy flavours. The wine is big and quite ripe. Its main feature is its enormously full mouthfeel, and there is enough structure to give it a long finish. The wine has silky aspects, but is dominated by a fleshy finish. This wine is not for everybody, it can be overwhelming. You may wish to share a bottle with six others.
Score: 93/+
Dave Powell, Torbeck's owner and winemaker, specializes in Rhone varieties. While he is probably best known for his powerful Shirazes, I think his special skill is with Grenache. His other popular Grenache is the GSM blend 'The Steading'. He manages to make very profound wines from this variety. Les Amis is a single vineyard wine, made from old dry grown bush vines in Marananga/Seppeltsfield.
This 2001 Les Amis tastes of raspberry and earthy flavours. The wine is big and quite ripe. Its main feature is its enormously full mouthfeel, and there is enough structure to give it a long finish. The wine has silky aspects, but is dominated by a fleshy finish. This wine is not for everybody, it can be overwhelming. You may wish to share a bottle with six others.
Score: 93/+
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon
Following on from the unusual Mount Edelstone experience, I decided to open a stalwart of the Australian wine industry, a mature Wynns Cabernet. This 2001 Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon delivered exactly what I expected.
The blackcurrant still dominates, but the wine has mellowed and shows savoury characteristics as well. The firm tannins have softened somewhat. This is never a wine which wins in the 'elegance' stakes or the 'most fruit concentration' stakes, but the wine has a good structure and a long finish. It is perfect with steak, and perfect to drink now.
Score: 91/++
The blackcurrant still dominates, but the wine has mellowed and shows savoury characteristics as well. The firm tannins have softened somewhat. This is never a wine which wins in the 'elegance' stakes or the 'most fruit concentration' stakes, but the wine has a good structure and a long finish. It is perfect with steak, and perfect to drink now.
Score: 91/++
Thursday, September 6, 2012
Henschke Mount Edelstone: How A Wine Can Change
In 2010, I posted a glowing review of the 2002 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz. It had received very high scores on release by professional wine writers. A little while ago I read a note by someone (I cannot remember who) that this wine is aging fast and should be drunk immediately. I have three bottles of this wine left, so I thought I might see what it was like.
When I opened a bottle, the signs were mixed. The cork was firm and tight, but as I was pouring the wine, it showed quite a brown colour next to the traditional deep black. The wine obviously has aged quite quickly. This was confirmed on the palate. There was still a complex flavour spectrum, now dominated by chocolaty flavours and dried prunes. The fruit is clearly overripe, not totally unpleasant, but far from perfect. This is quite unusual for the 2002 vintage which was quite cool. I am puzzled how this could have happened.
My advice to everybody owning this wine: drink it quickly. You may still enjoy it, but I am sure you will not in another two years time. What a shame!
Score: 88/--
When I opened a bottle, the signs were mixed. The cork was firm and tight, but as I was pouring the wine, it showed quite a brown colour next to the traditional deep black. The wine obviously has aged quite quickly. This was confirmed on the palate. There was still a complex flavour spectrum, now dominated by chocolaty flavours and dried prunes. The fruit is clearly overripe, not totally unpleasant, but far from perfect. This is quite unusual for the 2002 vintage which was quite cool. I am puzzled how this could have happened.
My advice to everybody owning this wine: drink it quickly. You may still enjoy it, but I am sure you will not in another two years time. What a shame!
Score: 88/--
Wednesday, September 5, 2012
Madfish Grandstand Sauvignon Blanc
I usually review quite expensive wines, I must admit, but sometimes I come across a cheap wine which is quite reasonable in quality. The 2011 Madfish Grandstand Sauvignon Blanc is such a wine. Madfish generally provides good value for money wines.
This Sauvignon Blanc has typical gooseberry flavours. It has a strong acidic backbone, but the wine is not overly herbaceous. The wine is crisp on the palate without residual sweetness. I do not drink much Sauvignon Blanc, but I can recommend this wine as a good alternative to the New Zealand quaffers.
Score: 88/+
This Sauvignon Blanc has typical gooseberry flavours. It has a strong acidic backbone, but the wine is not overly herbaceous. The wine is crisp on the palate without residual sweetness. I do not drink much Sauvignon Blanc, but I can recommend this wine as a good alternative to the New Zealand quaffers.
Score: 88/+
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