TOP NSW Wines

 Wines from New South Wales do not have a great reputation. I do not know if it is the arrogance of Sydneysiders, or what is causing it, but a recent tasting of premium NSW wines demonstrated they can mix it with the best. I will comment briefly on five wines in this tasting.

The first two wines are from Orange, a cool climate region, which produces increasingly exciting wines. The 2022 Canobolas Chardonnay is citrus and floral flavoured. It is a very elegant wine. It does not undergo malolactic fermentation, and is matured in oak. The vineyard slopes down the mountain of Mt. Canobolas, and this translates into an energetic wine with a mineral finish. This wine is absolutely first class (94 points).

The 2023 ChaLou 'Quixotic' Reserve Pinot Noir is equally impressive. This is the first Reserve Pinot Noir from this producer. The wine is obviously very young at this point and quite restraint. The grapes are grown on volcanic soil. They deliver an appealing blend of black cherry and mulberry fruit and some savoury characteristics. The finish is caressing and long (94 points).

Then came the known big guns. The 2019 Tyrrells Old Patch Shiraz was most impressive. It comes from the oldest vineyard in NSW, planted in 1867. This is a medium bodied wine with great purity of  red fruits. The wine has a velvety texture and a piercing drive. The wine is elegant and powerful at the same time. The excellent balance between fruit, acidity, and tannins points to a long future (97 points).

Tasting the 2009 Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier straight after, was a tough assignment. This is quite a different wine - softer and fruitier, with a bigger mouthfeel, and some five spice. It was quite harmonious at 15 years of age (95 points).

The 2000 Lake's Folly Cabernet Blend from Magnum was equally fresh, after 24 years. What an achievement! The vineyard is on a unique plot in the Hunter Valley, red clay over limestone. The wine is red fruited with a characteristic earthy flavour. The beautifully structured palate delivers great concentration of fruit and a long finish (97 points).     

 

What Happens When You Buy Cheap Bordeaux?

 What is the experience of buying a cheap bottle of Bordeaux? When I say cheap, I do not mean real cheap, but, say, under $100 per bottle. Yesterday, I tried the 2016 Château Clos de Boüard. Depending where you live, this wine can be found for under $50 per bottle. The owners also own Château L'Angélus, one of the top right bank producers.

This is a right bank wine, so unsurprisingly, the dominant grape is Merlot with 85%, then 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.

This is quite a dark wine, and the fruit is quite concentrated. Mainly blackcurrant, but also licorice and tobacco. The mouthfeel is quite complex and attractive. Unfortunately, the tannins are somewhat coarse, and the finish is a bit harsh. Overall, a good wine, in particular with protein food.

If you go for this kind of strategy, looking at the right bank makes sense. In contrast to the Cabernet Sauvignon dominated left bank, Merlot at the lower price point would be less astringent, generally speaking. The Clos de Boüard comes from Montagne, a satellite of St. Emilion. This explains the lower price point.

I found this quite an acceptable value for money proposition. Is it better than a similarly priced local wine. I think this depends; sometimes yes, sometimes no.

Score: 90/++

Peay Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

 Buying American wine in Australia, or anywhere else for that matter, is always a difficult value for money equation. Peay Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is somewhat of an exception. The wine is priced like a blended wine from purchased fruit, but in this case, it is all Estate fruit at relatively low yields. The vineyards are only 4km from the coast. The grapes benefit from frequent fog and overnight cooler temperatures, and avoid the heat spikes further inland.

A couple of nights ago, I poured the 2019 Peay Sonoma Cost Pinot Noir. The wine has an appealing aromatic nose of rose petals and hibiscus. Red and black cherry fruit is blended on the palate with mild savoury notes of forest floor. This delivers an appealing, slightly soft mouthfeel. The wine is framed by solid acidity and dry tannins.

This wine has all the ingredients of a great wine, but it ultimately lacks some depth and drive for it to be outstanding.

Score: 94/++

  

Château Pontet-Canet

 In the last post, I talked about a surprising Barolo. Today, it is about a surprising Bordeaux wine. I experienced the 2004 Château Pontet-Canet.

So the wine is 20 years old, comes from a cooler vintage and is from Pauillac, where the soil is stony and the tannins strong. This should translate into a somewhat austere wine with piercing tannins.

Instead, I experience quite a rounded wine, dark fruited, with a very pleasant and complex mouthfeel. The tannins do not overwhelm, but are getting more prominent and dry with more tasting. Overall, this wine is a pleasant surprise.

Score: 95/+++

The conclusion is that overall descriptors of vintage or soil deliver little accurate prediction of a particular wine. Despite the popular notion 'we let nature do their thing', winemakers have a significant influence on the end product. Why otherwise would some be so revered?   

 

Azelia Margheria Barolo

 There is probably no other type of dry wine which achieves almost always reviews of 90+ points than Barolo. This is probably due to the combination of aromatics and tannin structure which can hardly go wrong. Yesterday I tasted the 2013 Azelia Margheria Barolo. The Margheria vineyard is in Serralunga. A number of leading producers source wine from here, including Gaja. Massolino's Vigna Rionda is just below the sizable Azelia holding. This is a vintage in which many great wines were made. Let us see how it went.

Discovering the colour of the wine, I got a bit alarmed. This was not the frequent orange, nor the darker red of Serralunga, but a brown colour. I could still taste the intensity of the fruit, but it was ripe, dried off, and simply dead. There were tobacco and licorice flavours, which helped a bit. The wine was slightly lifted by the firm tannins, which were still alive. Overall, a very disappointing experience. Was this a bottle problem? The cork was fine. Unfortunately, I do not have a second bottle to compare. Azelia does not rank in the list of top producers and is priced accordingly. However, this wine is best avoided.

Score: 84/-- 

Delamere Pinot Noir

 I have mentioned a number of times that Tasmanian Pinot Noir is tricky. The marginal climate can be attractive. However, there are many subregions in Tasmania with quite different conditions. What is very suitable in one year may not be ideal in another. It is therefore difficult for Tasmanian wineries to establish a solid track record over a number of years.

I am drinking the 2021 Delamere Pinot Noir  from the Tamar River region. The vines are well established at 40 years of age.

The colour is purple, indicating a savoury Pinot Noir, and it is. The wine is of medium intensity. The complex dark fruit flavours are quite ripe, but are balanced by savoury notes. The wine sits in the mouth a bit, and lacks energy to move forward, but it is appealing when it  finally gets to the finish. The tannins are soft and fine grained, leading to a satisfying medium plus finish.

Score: 93/++  

 

Barossa Valley, Part 2

 Two more wineries to visit on this short trip to the Barossa; Phase III Wines and Alkina.

The name Phase III refers to the third stage of Ben Kelley's life, when he decided to move to the Barossa to grow truffles, and then wine. However, he has been associated with wine for a long time and along the way got to know Fraser McKinley, the winemaker of Sami-Odi fame. His influence is obvious in a number of ways, for example the port shaped bottles and including wine from more than one vintage.

Ben is more playful, though; grabs fruit from wherever he can, adds Pinot to Shiraz, and generally behaves like a kid in a candy store (not in a bad way). His volume of his key wine, Dero (Australian slang for 'I am nobody') is 250 cases.

I also tasted some more experimental wines. The 2022 Phase III Semillon is an attractive wine. It is barrel fermented and richer and rounder than a young Hunter Valley wine. Yet it is a refreshing wine at 10.5% alcohol with crisp citrus flavours (92 points). The 2023 Phase III Chardonnay comes from High Eden, near Mountadam. The wine has whole bunch and tastes of tropical fruit and spices with a nice acidic backbone. The wine also includes four buckets of frontignac. I did not notice it, but it may have added complexity (92 points).

There was also a 2021 whole bunch Pinot Noir. It was robust and powerful, with red fruits dominating, and a musky and savoury backbone. It was interesting, but did not work too well (86 points).

Then I tried the 2023 Phase III Home Block Shiraz. Ben has now planted three small vineyards, which over time presumably will replace bought fruit. The fruit in this wine comes from 3 (!) year old vines. This seems crazy, and it does not work too well. The fruit is picked early. The wine is fruity, despite 100% whole bunch and one of the lowest alcohol Shirazes in the valley at 12.2% (88 points).

Then we come to the 2023 Phase III Devo, the main wine. The fruit comes from something like 10 vineyards, including two Hoffmann blocks. The bottle is in a bag, in reference to his earlier work in a bottle shop. The philosophy is to pick early and whole bunch to soften the tannins. He wants to make wine to be drunk early. The wine shows pleasant red and black fruit, but no sweetness. The structure is solid (93 points).

I would not be surprised if something stunning will come from this producer one day.  

The final stop is at Alkina. The contrast could not be starker. Serious money has gone into this business. The vineyards around the property have been meticulously analysed, and divided by soil type. This is not unusual in many parts of the world, but not common to this detail in the Barossa Valley. The different plots are called polygons, meaning an area made up of line segments. The focus of Alkina is Grenache and Shiraz. It will be interesting to compare these wines to the McLaren Vale tasted wines.

The first Grenache based wine tasted is a 2024 Alkina Rosé. The wine is matured 50% in stainless steel, 50% in concrete. The wine is light, with beautiful aromatic flower scents, and clean raspberry flavours (93 points).

The entry level Grenache was the 2023 Alkina Kin Grenache. It is a blend from different plots of limestone and schist soil. 100% whole bunch was used, and the wine was matured in 100% concrete, to bring out the fresh fruit. The wine is red fruited and quite soft - an easy drinking wine (92 points).

A big step-up were the two polygon Grenaches, from 2022, a cool vintage. The 2022 Alkina Polygon 3 Grenache comes from a plot of limestone and schist soil. This is an intense and super elegant wine, majestic comes to mind. The acidity is present, but beaten by the weight of the fruit. The silky tannins lead to a very satisfying finish - a superb wine (96 points).

The 2022 Alkina Polygon 5 Grenache comes from heavier soil, fractured schist and clay. And this is reflected in the wine. This wine is bigger, quite fiery. This more savoury wine has a great structure pointing to a long life ahead (96 points).

These two wines were certainly highlights of my week in South Australia. They are superbly crafted, and showing off the different soil profiles really well. 

Then came the Shiraz flight. The 2023 Alkina Birdsong Shiraz is matured in concrete to showcase the pristine red and black fruit. There is elegance and power in this wine, but the wine is not as focused as some (92 points).

The 2022 Alkina Polygon 1 Shiraz comes from a tiny plot of quartzite and schist soil. The colour is very dark, and the nose is big. This is a fiery, but quite dense wine with a long finish. Attractive mulberry flavours stand out (95 points).

And then came a surprise, the new 2023 Alkina Striato. I do not know much about this wine. It was quite a contrast to the Polygon 1. The wine is lighter, lively and red fruited. It has great balance and finishes with firm, but fine grained tannins (95 points).

As previously, this was an excellent tasting experience. Some of the Alkina wines are superb. With its scientific soil approach, could Alkina become an icon Barossa winery? There is one big problem: these polygons are tiny plots, and the resulting wine is made in small volumes. It will simply not be available to many people. This however, should be a criterion for an icon winery. However, if you are lucky enough to get access to some of these wines, enjoy!

This week in South Australia had a strong focus on Grenache. A theory is emerging. The premium Grenaches from Blewitt Springs and Clarendon tend to be fresh and red fruited. Their ph is between 3.0 and 3.35, indicating high acidity. The Grenaches from Alkina have a ph of close to 3.6, indicating lower acidity, largely a function of the warmer climate. These wines still have some freshness, but fruit intensity and some dark fruit flavours are also characteristic. So it seems ph levels can predict key components of the Grenache flavour.

 

  

Barossa Valley, Part 1

 Then on to the Barossa, where I wanted to taste the 'new' or 'alternative' Barossa. My first stop is at Agricola in the Eden Valley. This is a small operation (700 cases per year) by Callum Powell, the son of ex-Torbreck winemaker David Powell. His wines are nothing like Torbreck, though.

Callum's wines have been well received and are sold out, but he was kind enough to open two bottles for me. One of the key features of his Shiraz winemaking is the use of 100% whole bunch in the ferment. Let's see how this goes. He also does not do any manipulation, say adding acid etc.

The first wine is the 2023 Agricola DWxHV Shiraz. DW stands for Dallwitz, HV for Hutton Vale. So this is a blend of fruit from the famous Hoffmann managed vineyard in Ebenezer and Eden Valley. The wine is fresh and very savoury and drinks well. I took the bottle with me, and found on day two that more green elements emerged. Using 100% whole bunch is brave in a cool vintage such as 2023, but the fruit from the warm Ebenezer area made it work, although not perfect (92 points).

The second wine, the 2023 Agricola Ebenezer Shiraz comes from old Dallwitz and Dimchurch fruit (not the oldest blocks). The wine is bright, and tastes of red skinned fruit, licorice, and mocca. This is also a fresh wine, a little bit herbal. There is no sweetness in these wines and alcohol is about 13.9% (92 points).

I found these wines interesting. In warmer vintages and with more experience, they could become outstanding.

My second visit is to Ollin, a new winery only started in February of this year.  However, Jaysen Collins, the winemaker, is very experienced, probably best known for the work at Massena together with Dan Standish.

The surprise here was that I liked the white wines better than the reds. The 2022 Ollin Chenin Blanc spent 24 months on lees, yet the colour was still bright. This was a refreshing dry field blend with 13.5% alcohol (92 points). The 2022 Ollin Chardonnay was my wine of the tasting. It spent 12 months on lees and was matured in old French barrels. Gentle citrus flavours dominate in this textural wine (93 points). I also liked the 2023 Ollin Rosé from Grenache fruit. 12 months on lees and barrel fermented, this is made in the Provence style - pale, but with flavour (92 points). 

I was not too impressed with the red wines. The 2022 Balto Grenache from Standish fruit was hand stomped. It is meant for early drinking, but I found fruit and earthy components not well integrated (86 points). The 2022 Ollin Grenache is more serious. It comes from 160 year old fruit in the Eden Valley. There is a lot of spice on the palate. The wine is quite astringent and acidic (87 points). The 2022 Ollin Shiraz, from Kalleske fruit, is a slightly better wine. It is fresh, red fruited, but also quite astringent (89 points).

McLaren Vale, Part 3

 The tasting at perhaps McLaren Vale’s most iconic winery, Yangarra, was very extensive. 

I will only report on the five wines, which impressed me most. Others were still outstanding, in particular the 2022 Ovitelli Blanc. So let us start with the Grenache range. On layer three is the 2023 Yangarra Old Vine Grenache. This is simply a joke. This wine is superb. The wine has great purity, and a fragrance which leads to an elegant mouthfeel (95 points). The 2022 Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache is quite different. It is still a fresh wine, but the fruit expression is quite dark. The wine is also quite tannic, but balanced overall (95 points). I found the 2021 Yangarra High Sands Grenache, the top of the tree, controversial. It is an elegant wine, with more fruit intensity than the others. There is a bit of Grenache sweetness in the core. The issue I have with this wine is that it wants to be fresh on the one hand, and deep and profound on the other. These ideas seem to almost clash on the palate (94 points).

Shiraz is the second major leg of Yangarra. I found the 2022 King’s Wood Shiraz very appealing. It is a bright and elegant wine, red fruited, but also quite savoury, helped by 75% whole bunch (96 points). The higher priced 2021 Ironheart Shiraz is a bigger wine, quite plush and long on the finish (94 points).

This tasting proved that Peter Fraser, the winemaker, is on top of his game. These wines are sophisticated, yet quite easy to drink. Perhaps with the exception of the Ironheart Shiraz, I would be happy to drink a second or third glass of all of them.

These three tastings had quite a focus on Grenache. They showed a particular upper McLaren Vale Grenache style which is fresh, aromatic, but not sweet, and quite acidic. One could argue this is because of the recent cooler vintages, but all winemakers emphasized they liked the low ph levels of, say, 3.0 to 3.2. They are somewhat higher in the Barossa, and we will see what difference this makes. This is where I go next.

McLaren Vale, Part 2

 The next stop was at SC Pannell. Stephen Pannell is a highly regarded winemaker, but the wines from the home block have always been disappointing. Then everything changed when he managed to purchase the Koomilya vineyard in 2013. He has always been keen on this, as the wine he won a Jimmy Watson trophy with at Hardys came from this vineyard.

I had the privilege to walk through this sizeable and very isolated vineyard while tasting its wines along the way. The core wines are the Shiraz from three different blocks; the DC block, the GT block, and the JC block. 

                               Looking down the GT Block, with some Touriga vines in the front

The first wine is the 2021 SC Pannell Koomilya DC Block Shiraz. The vines are 49 years old. The wine has quite lifted aromas, but on the palate, you are hit with power and punch. Red and black fruits vie for attention; cranberry, boysenberry, black cherry. There is also some charred meat, eucalypt, and black tea. The firm tannins bring the wine to a powerful close.

Score: 95/++

It is really important to see how this wine ages. The 2013 DC Block Shiraz helps to explain it. The fruit profile is similar. The ironstone effect from the soil comes through a bit more, as savoury flavours are strong. The tannins have softened. I believe 10 years maturing is a minimum to really enjoy this wine.

Score: 95/++

The 2021 SC Pannell Koomilya GT Block Shiraz comes from 33 year old vines. Curiously, the vines are grafted on Gewurztraminer planted 50 years ago. The fruit of this wine is softer, maybe due to the grey slaty siltstone. More raspberry flavours emerge, but also cedar and other savoury notes. This is a fresh and energetic wine with silky tannins.

Score: 95/+++

The vines of the JC Block are also 49 years old. The fruit is darker in this wine. There is a lot of ironstone  rubble in the soil. The 2021 SC Pannell Koomilya JC Block Shiraz shows complex fruit flavours; dark cherry, mocca, black pepper. However, it is a softer expression of Shiraz. Having said this, the finish is very long, flanked by firm tannins.

Score: 95/+++

There is also a small volume of 2021 SC Pannell Koomilya Cabernet Touriga from this vineyard. The Cabernet Sauvignon does not ripen every year and is likely to be pulled out. However, I found this wine very attractive. This is a fresh wine, caressing fruit on display. The Touriga grape lifts the wine adding some fruitiness to the wine, which is otherwise still quite tight and astringent. I think in a few years, this will be a great wine.

Score: 94/+++

Overall the impressions from this vineyard are: freshness, no sweetness on the mid-palate, and firm tannins.

Leaving this vineyard, I am moved to the centre of Blewitt Springs to taste the three single site Grenaches.  This is the other strength of SC Pannell. The 2022 SC Pannell Smart Grenache comes from the famous 67 year old bush vines of the high altitude Smart vineyard. The acidity is very prominent in this wine, maybe a bit too much for me. However, the raspberry and red cherry fruit is perfectly ripe, before the wine finishes with firm tannins.

Score: 93/+

The 2022 SC Pannell Little Branch Grenache is the first release from a newly acquired 30 year old vineyard. The tannins are not as strong as in the Smart Grenache. This is a slightly more friendly wine at this stage, still with a focus on freshness.

Score: 93/++

These two wines are based in Blewitt Springs at some altitude. The third Grenache is closer to the ocean at only 80 meters of altitude. All are on sandy soils, of course. The 2022 SC Pannell Old McDonald Grenache comes from an 80 year old vineyard. It has more of the characteristics of the flats of McLaren Vale. This is a gentler wine with some fruit sweetness on the mid palate, but clearly held in check. Good winemaking here.

Score: 94/++

Overall, this tasting wiped out some less exciting SC Pannell experiences of the past. The 2021s and 2022s tasted here come from cooler vintages, and it shows. The wines are fresh, but also quite acidic.

McLaren Vale, Part 1

 A brief trip to South Australia plans to first of all explore the northern parts of McLaren Vale, Clarendon and Blewitt Springs. First stop is Bekkers, a boutique producer of high end wines. You have to be brave and confident to start pricing from $90/bottle. Is it justified?

Bekkers focusses on three red wines, as they say, from the hero varieties of McLaren Vale. The 2022 Bekkers Grenache is red fruited, singing the high notes. There is some spice as well. The key to this wine is its texture, defined by the silky tannins. Acidity is quite high (more on this in later posts) and the finish is long. This is a very harmonious wine.

Score: 95/+++

The 2021 Bekkers Syrah sees 47% new oak. The dark fruit flavours are intense, but more significant are the savoury flavours, its salty and liquorice notes. This firm flavour profile is matched by soft and silky tannins. This is a very seductive Shiraz.

Score: 95/+++

Then there is the 2022 Bekkers Syrah-Grenache. This blend is 75% Shiraz, 25% Grenache. I find it less convincing. The colour is dark, showing the Shiraz dominance. Vegetable flavours add to the dark fruit flavours. I did not find much of the alluring Grenache flavours in this wine. The blend is not so convincing.

Score: 92/+

I could also taste the 2017 Bekkers Grenache to understand how the Grenache evolves over time. This is a very aromatic wine. The acidity stands out less. It almost tasted like an aged Nebbiolo; very gentle, but with a solid structure and red and black berry flavours.

Score: 95/+++

Overall, a very promising start to the McLaren Vale exploration.

Giant Steps Single Vineyard Pinot Noirs

 Giant Steps received great accolades for its 2023 Single Vineyard Pinot Noirs. To see how they develop, I opened a couple of these wines from 2021.

The 2021 Giant Steps Wombat Creek Pinot Noir comes from perhaps the most challenging vineyard in the Yarra Valley. It is the most elevated at over 400m. Giant Steps does not make wine from it every year. It did not, as far as I know, in 2023, a very cool year.

But lets look at 2021. The colour is very bright pink, translating into vibrant red cherry flavours. The wine is really intense in its fruit flavours, almost jumps out of the glass. It is backed by savoury notes and firm tannins before a medium plus finish. The wine is not too complex in its flavour profile, but it is very well made and has a great structure. I found it quite exciting.

Score: 95/+++

The 2021 Giant Steps Primavera Vineyard Pinot Noir is also from a higher altitude vineyard at 240m.  It shows a more complex fruit profile, with red and black cherry flavours dominant, and a fragrant mouthfeel. This wine is quite soft in the mouth. Again, there are savoury or mushroom flavours. The tannins are soft.

In terms of quality, it is high in both wines, but the focus is quite different. The Wombat Creek wine is about structure, whereas Primavera is about flavour complexity.

Score: 95/+++

Both wines indicate excellent and site specific winemaking. They hint at great things to come from this winery.

Swinney Farvie Grenache

 The  large Swinney vineyards near Frankland River in the south of Western Australia have been a significant source of fruit to the royalty of Margaret River for many years. The obvious question is, why not make wine ourselves? When the Shiraz and Grenache wines launched some years ago, they were welcomed with some fanfare, given the pedigree of the old vines. But how do they really stack up? I tried to find out with a bottle of the 2019 Swinney Farvie Grenache,  the second vintage of their premium wine. 

It is a dark version of Grenache, with black cherry, some gravelly and spice flavours. This is a full-bodied, muscular wine, with a whiff of alcohol on the finish. The wine is perhaps similar to the Cirillo 1850, not quite as round and aromatic. The wine has a savoury and firm finish. It is quite long with blocky tannins very present, probably thanks to the 12% Mourvedre in the wine.

There is clearly great fruit in this wine. The winemaking is good, but not excellent. I think there are a few little kinks to flatten out.

Score: 94/++

Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon

 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon can be magic: boysenberry flavours, smooth mouthfeel, silky tannins. Unfortunately, these wines, particularly from the valley floor, are often overripe. In response, a number of wineries  headed for the hills. And then you have the opposite issue. Enter the 2019 Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon.

2019 was a cool vintage. And despite this wine coming from the valley floor, the blackcurrant flavours are overshadowed by herbal notes. While the wine avoids the gap in the mid palate, it delivers quite a coarse mouthfeel. The finish is quite long, but a bit harsh and not totally pleasant.

Score : 87/0

PS: We all know that Napa Cabernet is expensive. I only buy the occasional bottles from airport duty free stores.

Is Bordeaux The First Major Wine Region In Modern Times To Collapse?

 The en primeur worked great for leading Bordeaux wineries. These wines need time to come into their own, yet en primeur sales generate cash-flow straight away. In addition, these sales take place without a proper assessment of quality.

Over the last years, a number of developments happened and have started to form a perfect storm. First, early this century, Chinese buyers got into the market irrespective of price. The major US customers increasingly turned away. As the Chinese economy started to stall, and directions were given to stop drinking imported wine, this market fell away. In addition, younger consumers in the Western world increasingly turned off serious and intense red wine.

Yet, not withstanding these trends, many wineries kept increasing en primeur prices year on year. As quality could not keep pace, prices in the secondary market could not match en primeur prices. The incentives to buy en primeur, securing supply and better prices, are no longer there.

And now we have the 2024 vintage. It is a disaster. Flowering was poor, ripening is uneven, leading to longer hang time and exposure to mildew.The industry is putting its usual spin on the vintage, but volumes will be down, quality down as well. Prices must fall. It will be interesting to see how the wineries will cope.

Rieslingfreak No.2

 Sometimes, not very often, when I drink a new wine, I am simply astonished. This happened to me yesterday when I drank the 2024 Rieslingfreak No.2 from Polish Hill in Clare Valley.

This wine has a high intensity of lime and green apple, but it is not fruity. The wine has a great line, and it is not broad. Equally, it is not piercing. It has a wonderful balance. The palate pushes towards a mineral and very satisfying finish.

This is the best young Australian Riesling I have tasted, not withstanding some Leo Burings of the past. I have never rated a wine as high for this price ($30/bottle).

This wine will age well, but it is such a treat right now.

Score: 97/+++

Elanto Vineyard

 There are not many high density projects in Australia. The new Bindi vineyards and Place of Changing Winds are perhaps the most prominent. Now we have the first wines from a new, very ambitious project. It is called Elanto Vineyard on the Mornington Peninsula, managed by Sandro Mosele, the former winemaker of Kooyong.

As you can see, it is meticulously planted (in 2018) in eight blocks with different slopes and sun exposure. Interestingly, the soil is the same, namely red volcano. At Kooyong, Sandro planted on different soils, and he found this the most promising.

The first wines from 2023 are now available. I found the Chardonnay had a promising fruit profile, but was still lacking some definition. The Pinot Noir was the better wine, with good complexity, red fruits and savoury underbrush characteristics. Making great wine takes a lot of time and patience. Apparently the 2024 wines are a step up. This will be a producer to watch. 

Langton's Classification Tasting, Part 2

                                                            There was a lot of space

There were big surprises for me in the main red categories of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Of the 14 Shiraz wines I tasted, the 2018 Henschke Hill of Grace narrowly won out. It is a very elegant and silky wine, which goes on and on. But the next two wines in the top category were the big surprises. I have not tasted these for probably 10 years. This will now change. The 2019 Castagna Genesis Syrah from Beechworth is incredibly aromatic, with a medium body. Violets, spices, a little musk, all beautifully integrated with smooth tannins. And then there was the 2022 Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz. This wine is fresh, balanced, and super smooth. The finish is very long. When I tasted this brand many years ago, I found it sometimes a bit heavy and worked. None of that in this wine.

In the next category I have the Rockford Basket Press, which was similar on the palate to the Brokenwood, just a bit sweeter. Then there is the 2020 Sami-Odi Hoffmann Dallwitz Shiraz from one of the most famous and very hot vineyards in the Barossa. This is a dark, big and slightly sweet wine, yet well made and balanced. The blackberry fruit stands out. And finally the 2018 Henschke Mt. Edelstone, also a very dark wine, complex, with mocca notes and some sweetness. These three wines a good examples of Barossa Shiraz, big wines, but well made.

Very different wines appear at the next level. There is the highly regarded 2018 Penfolds Grange. This wine is massive in its fruit weight. At this point, it is quite oaky and sweet. I can only judge what I taste now, but it is likely that in 10 years time different elements of this wine will come together better. It is the first time I tasted the 2023 Serrat Shiraz/Viognier from the Yarra Valley. I enjoyed the aromatics and the quality of the fruit, and found the wine slightly more appealing than the Yarra Yering Dry Red No.2 Shiraz. I also rated Sami-Odi's Little Wine #12 in this category. It is a blend of vintages from 2015 to 2022.

In the final category are the disappointments. Chris Ringland is known for making extra ripe, high alcohol wines. The 2016 Chris Ringland Dry Grown Shiraz, the current release, is no exception. The wine tastes like port and a wine from a bygone era. The other two Shiraz which disappointed me, surprisingly, were cool climate wines from Victoria. The 2019 Craiglee Shiraz was sweet and oaky, and lacked structure. I also expected much much from the 2021 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz. It is a big and alcoholic wine.

Now to the 12 Cabernets I tasted. Two aspects turn me off with Cabernet; when the capsicum flavours and other herbal flavours are too strong, and when there is a hole mid-palate. Overall, the category was not as strong as Shiraz.

The 2021 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon stood out among this group. This is a wine with depth of fruit, very rounded, but not overripe, a lot of complexity and balance. Outstanding!

In the second group are a number of wines from different regions and with very different characteristics. The 2018 Wynns John Riddoch shows beautiful terra rossa red fruit, and is balanced with chalky tannins. It will live a long time. The 2021 Yarra Yering Dry Red No.1 Cabernet delivers a full, satisfying mouthfeel. It is well balanced and quite long. The 2023 Lake's Folly Cabernet is very young, but promising, with good fruit and an excellent structure.  The 2020 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon has a similar profile to the Moss Wood, not surprising given its proximity. The intensity is just one notch down. The last wine in this group is the 2018 Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine surprised by being quite light on its feet, with excellent balance and oak treatment.

The third group includes two wines which are better judged 10 years from now. The 2022 Mount Mary Quintet is simply not very distinctive right now. It is long in the mouth. A recent vertical tasting showed that this wine takes time to come into its own. The 2022 Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon delivers the darkest black colour of any wine I have ever seen! It is very dense and complex, with blackcurrant and mocca flavours standing out. Then there is the Deep Woods Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a bit of a hole mid-palate, and I could not rate it as highly as the Cape Mentelle. 

 In the group of disappointments I found the Yeringberg Cabernet Blend. I normally rate this estate highly, but this wine is surprisingly tannic, and the fruit does not stand up to it. Leeuwin's long march to create a Cabernet Sauvignon of equal standing to the Chardonnay is still an ongoing objective, I suggest. The 2021 Leeuwin Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon has a strong capsicum flavour, and yet the alcohol is noticeable - not a nice combination. Finally, the 2021 Balnaves The Tally Cabernet Sauvignon sufferrs a similar fate - quite green and capsicum laden.

This is a long post. The descriptions are brief, I had a lot of ground to cover. Hopefully the notes are still valuable for you.

Langton's Classification Tasting, Part 1

 This tasting of the best Australian wines according to Langton's 'empirical' data only happens once every five years or so. It is a big affair, as 100 wines are available for tasting. I attended it yesterday in Sydney.

The event was well organized, but still, one had to navigate quite a big crowd. There was not enough time to take detailed notes, as I tasted 30+ wines. It became obvious that there were hardly any bad wines; so it came down to personal preferences. In this post I will comment on the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs I tasted. The next post will cover Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon and blends.

I did not taste all wines in these categories, because I either knew them quite well or was not interested, So for example in Chardonnay, I did not taste Penfolds Yattarna and Giaconda Chardonnay.

Of the Chardonnays I tasted, the perhaps surprising, but not altogether surprising favorite was the 2018 Penfolds Reserve Bin A Chardonnay. This wine seems to be a bit less restricted by the house style. It is a bit funkier, still very fresh, with concentrated citrus and grapefruit flavours, and a creamy texture and great line. World-class! 

Not far behind was the 2021 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay. A bit understated, yet powerful, with beautiful lime and white peach fruit and great drive.

The 864 Oakridge Chardonnay was very clean, but a bit oaky (pardon the pun). And the Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay came last, showing less freshness and vibrancy (still a good wine).

On the Pinot Noir front, it was essentially a battle between Bass Phillip and Bindi. Both wineries had two wines in the line-up. The very rare 2018 Bass Phillip Reserve Pinot Noir was exquisite - a wine of elegance and poise, silky tannins and a long finish.

The Bindi wines showed a clear winery style of delicacy and finesse. The 2021 Bindi Block 5 Pinot Noir impressed with lifted aromas and a very smooth palate. The Bindi Original Vineyard Pinot Noir was also very balanced and smooth - not much between these two.

The 2022 Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir was quite different - a result of the new ownership? This was a very savoury and peppery style; quite unusual for an Australian Pinot Noir, and not as poised as the previous three wines. Finally, the 2022 Main Ridge Half Acre could not outperform its tough competition. The owner described the vintage as tough, and the wine, while quite aromatic, fell a bit short on the finish.

While this went close to expectations, part 2 will show some real surprises.   

Pooley Cooinda Vineyard Pinot Noir

 Time for a potentially controversial post. Pooley is a Tasmanian winery which has greatly expanded its range and tiered its offerings, including single vineyard wines. So far, so good. 

It is located in the Coal River Valley, an area in Tasmania which gets a lot of sunshine and little rain. It is therefore attractive to many producers, because the disease risk is lower than in other parts. However, a leading expert on Pinot Noir (who will remain nameless) is critical of this location. In his view, Pinot Noir needs rain and needs to struggle. I just tasted the 2021 Pooley Cooinda Vineyard Pinot Noir and am interested to find out if this thesis shows in this wine. 

The Cooinda Vale vineyard is now almost 40 years old, so the vines are quite mature. On the palate, the wine is fruit focused. Red and black cherry flavours open up immediately. There is some elegance and finesse in this medium intensity wine, but the mouthfeel is a bit shallow. The tannins are soft, and  structure is lacking. This is a pretty and quaffable wine, which to me does not hold much interest.

Maybe there is some truth in the Coal River hypothesis mentioned above.

Score: 89/0  

Elio Grasso Ginestra Casa Maté

 Last year was the first time I visited the Elio Grasso Estate. Once you have managed to get past the barrier of the private road, the eastern slopes of the world class vineyards open up. The tasting of the 2019 Barolos were great, but they are too early to drink. So yesterday, I opened a 2010 Elio Grasso Casa Maté Barolo. 

I last reviewed this wine five years ago. The dark colour is still firmly in the glass. This is a wine from Monforte! The nose reveals rose petals, but also brooding, earthy notes. It is an appealing bouquet.

On the palate, dark cherry is the first flavour experience, then savoury, earthy flavours follow. This is wrapped up in firm, dry and chalky tannins. This all sounds quite serious, but this wine is very elegant with a fine finish which goes on and on. The wine is perfect with a serious protein dish. If you have this in your cellar, do not worry, the wine has not yet reached its peak.

Score: 96/+++ 

Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape

 Vieux Télégraphe is the largest holder of the famous La Crau field, with its large pebble stones. This is where its Châteauneuf-du-Pape comes from. 2015 was a warm vintage. Given the heat reflections from the stones, I was concerned about this year's flagship wine.

However, the 2015 Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape deals with this well. The heat is not at all seen in the wine. Red and black cherry fruits, raspberry, and some blue fruits flavour the palate in multiple layers. This leads to a complex mouthfeel. Olive, spice, underbrush flavours deliver  savoury notes.

This is an elegant wine, bordered by firm tannins and a finish which lasts and lasts. One for the ages.

Score: 96/+++ 

 

Archery Road Longbow Shiraz

 I do not know much about Archery Road. Apparently the winery is located at the south end of the Barossa Valley. Its address is Adelaide based. The Longbow Shiraz is made from a number of low yielding parcels, not sure from which subregion or regions. I have heard the approach to winemaking is opportunistic in terms of grape buying.

The first impression of the 2021 Archery Road Longbow Shiraz is its black ink colour. This is intense.

And it is a very concentrated wine. Ripe flavours of plum, blackberry, olive, and mocca lead to a generous mouthfeel. There is a certain sharpness there, and it tastes as if it was made in an industrial style, while obviously the volume cannot be very large. There is some sweetness in the mid-palate, and the finish is somewhat harsh.

There is not much elegance or detail to this big wine. It is a style which may appeal to some consumers who value alcohol first, but I find it unremarkable and not made with finesse. Given this, the $80/per bottle is quite steep.

Score: 86/-    

 

Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay Mini Vertical

 Sorry, I have not posted for a while, as I have mainly been drinking wine I already reviewed, but I experienced a mini vertical of the Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay, which is worth while talking about.

There are not many Australian Chardonnays which age well, but the Leeuwin Art Series is one. This tasting included the years 2020, 2013, and 1999.

The 2020 Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay is pale in colour. It is quite restrained on the nose. On the palate, many flavours reveal themselves: white flower, white peach, lemon curd, white melon, flint, and marzipan. Very high quality French oak is noticeable. The wine is very focused, and reveals its intensity after some time in the glass. Very complex and long on the finish (97 points).

The 2013 Chardonnay is light gold in colour. Flavours of white peach, citrus, nectarine, and some cashew. This is a powerful wine with a luscious mouthfeel. Acidity is more obvious than in the 2020. This wine is obviously more developed than the 2020, probably drinking at its peak now, and certainly proving this label can be aged (97 points).

The 1999 Chardonnay is different. The colour is an intense yellow. It delivers a big mouthfeel of lemon, melon, pineapple, fig, a hint of butterscotch. In comparison to the first two wines, it feels a little worked and heavy. However, it is a great effort to keep a 25 year old Australian Chardonnay alive and well (95 points).

At some point, I think in the early 2000s, the style of the Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay changed. Prior its fruit flavours were tropical, such as pineapple or yellow peach, and the mouthfeel broader. Since then precision on the palate increased, and citrus and white fruit flavours started to dominate, making the wine closer in style to a top level Burgundy. This was certainly brought out in this small tasting.

 

Mount Mary Quintet Vertical

 Vertical tastings, not easy to come by, are great opportunities to identify a producer's style, while also appreciating vintage variations. I was lucky to recently participate in a vertical tasting of Mount Mary Quintet from this iconic producer of the Yarra Valley. The Quintet has never been a top pick for me. This tasting has told me why. These wines only come into their own once they are at least 10 years old - and I never had the patience. This tasting spans vintages from 2017 to 2002.

The youngest wine, the Quintet 2017, was the least impressive. The wine is red fruited, with red cherry and raspberry flavours. The fruit has great purity and is enriched by mocca flavours. I notice a whole in the mid-palate, typical for Cabernet Sauvignon, even though the Quintet includes Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Hard to know if the wine will integrate as well as the older ones on tasting, but judging the wine as it is, I give it 93 points.

The Quintet 2013 impresses with quite a purple colour. The wine is very aromatic on the nose. In the mouth, it feels a little leaner. This is supported by some blue fruit flavours, which add to the raspberry, plum, and mocca character. In this wine, the different grape varieties are well integrated, and the mouthfeel is seamless (95 points). 

The Quintet 2012 is very different. This is quite a big and fruity wine; concentrated, yet very balanced. There is cassis and graphite on the palate and some muskiness. This is complex, with a long finish (97 points).

When we come to the Quintet 2005, we notice a difference due to age. This is now a wine on the plateau of development. It is very settled, a bit more linear than the bigger mouthfeel of the 2012. This wine is dark fruited and very elegant. It offers less generosity than the 2012, but a long and silky finish (95 points).

The Quintet 2002, from a cooler year, is still very much alive. The colour is still dark and intense, not at all flaky. This wine could be taken for a 1st or 2nd growth Bordeaux. Layers of red and black fruits are very smooth on the palate; chocolate and hints of muskiness. I detect some bret, but at this level it is not distracting. This is a beautiful aged Yarra Valley Cabernet (96 points). 

What are the key takeaways? As already mentioned, this wine should be drunk at 10 years plus. Also, as others have suggested, high quality aged Cabernet tends to end up in a similar spot (of taste).

 

Delamere Pinot Noir

 As I mentioned in previous posts, Tasmanian Pinot Noir is difficult to get a grip on. There are a number of sub-regions with quite different terroir, and, being a marginal wine growing region, depending on the vintage, in one year one sub-region works out well, and in another year another. For the 2021 vintage, Delamere from the Pipers Brook region in the north-east was written up well. This is my first taste of the 2021 Delamere Pinot Noir.

The wine shows a ruby colour, bright and intense. On the palate, black cherry and licorice dominate. This Pinot Noir is very deep and concentrated, surprising for Tasmania, perhaps (although there are other examples). There is fresh acidity and firm tannins, but the fruit flavours outweigh the structure elements. As a result, the strength of the wine is on the front and mid palate. Still, this is a satisfying wine, which drinks well right now. 

The wine clearly benefits from 40 year old vines and the winemaking skills of the Bay of Fires team.

Score: 95/++

A Winning Strategy?

 We all like to acquire an excellent wine at a low price. Is there a systematic way of doing this? One approach is to buy a second or third level wine from a leading winemaking team. Well, this can work to some extent, but there is a reason why these wines are second or third tier. I have now come across another approach. It is terroir related. The first wine is from Lusatia Park, Yarra Valley. This vineyard has delivered fruit to Giant Steps, Oakridge, Phi and others. Since 2015, the site is owned by De Bortoli. Interestingly, this name is not found on the label of their 2022 Riorret Lusatia Park Pinot Noir.

The wine comes across as quite fruity, in a typical strawberry, red cherry blend. It is a lively wine, and some savoury backbone starts to develop on the mid-palate. The wine is medium weight, with a balanced mouthfeel. The tannins are mild and the finish medium. This is a good quality all-rounder, but it lacks the sophistication of a top Yarra Pinot Noir.

Score: 93/++

So, has this approach been successful? I guess to a degree, but not completely.

The second wine is the 2022 Terra Sancta Mysterious Diggings Pinot Noir.

This wine is from Central Otago. In fact, the vineyard is right next to the original Felton Road vineyard. It sits at 300m altitude and consists of sandy soils.

This is a more intense wine than the first wine, with red and black cherry fruit, raspberry, black truffle, and forest floor. There is good complexity in this energetic wine. It is also fruit dominant and delivers a silky mouthfeel. Other elements fall in the mid range: body weight, tannins, and finish.

Again, the wine is good quality, a bit darker and bigger than the first wine.

Score: 93/++

So, is this strategy working? The wines did not disappoint, and they deliver very good value for money, in particular the Mysterious Diggings. But is it a major revelation or an absolute steal? Probably not. The wine market is quite efficient. 

Epis Pinot Noir

 Domaine Epis is a bit of a legendary winery. It was one of the first in the Macedon Ranges, and it made Pinot Noir in a Burgundian style, more savoury, while 20+ years ago many Australian Pinot Noirs were very fruit forward. It's volume was also very small. So you had the making of a cult winery. Forward 20 years, and the Pinot Noir landscape has changed a lot and the quality is much improved across the board. I have not had Epis wines for a long time, but I picked up a 2021 Epis Pinot Noir the other day.

The first impression: this is not so different and unusual any more. Black raspberry and forest floor flavours deliver a largely savoury impression in the mouth. There is also a slightly metallic touch. This is a medium-bodied wine with a somewhat linear, austere mouthfeel. The tannins are mild, and the finish medium plus. The wine opened up a bit in the glass, and will be better in a few years.

What is happening here is, many other wineries have caught up and gone ahead, whereas Epis has stood still (remember Virgin Hills?). The owner is now a remarkable 86 years old. He is getting some help from Michael Dhillon (Bindi) and others, but a more permanent solution will be required.

Score: 92/+

20 Year Old Penfolds Grange

 This is the preamble: Many of my wine drinking friends pooh-pooh Grange: too ripe, too big, too brutal, not sophisticated. A tall poppy syndrome? I must admit that I have tended to enjoy lighter wines over the years. But then, on a special occasion, I like to open a special wine, in this case a 2004 Penfolds Shiraz. This is what happened:

The wine shows a very high shoulder. The cork is clearly tight. Well, it was very tight and started to crumble and disintegrate as I started to pull it. Thankfully, I manage to extract the bottom part in one piece. No cork fell into the bottle.

The wine was astonishing. Yes, it is big and ripe, but also polished, fresh, smooth, with lively acidity. The blue and black fruits are layered, the finish goes on and on. This wine would stand out in any crowd. Can a full-bodied Shiraz be better than this?

Score: 100 points (+++)

Two other points of interest. When is the best time to drink this wine? An older version of Rewards of Patience suggests between 2016-2050. This is not very helpful. This wine still shows primary fruit, but also secondary characteristics. The structure is strong. You do not want to lose all fruit. I suggest a drinking window from here to 2030.

Many people wonder how the current release can be close to $1000 per bottle. I bought this wine in 2009 for $600. This means the increases have been 3% per annum - not too outrageous.