Grace Wines is a Japanese family business which celebrates 100 years this year. I had an opportunity to taste the full range with Ayana Misawa, the 5th generation winemaker. In this first part, I will review the classic range of Koshu wines grown in the hilly Katsunuma district of Yamanashi, north of Mt. Fuji. Koshu was first cultivated in the Caucasus region more than 1000 years ago and brought to Japan via the Silk Road. Today, it is Japan's signature grape variety.
Thursday, March 30, 2023
Grace Wines Tasting, Part 1
Saturday, March 25, 2023
Two Traditional, Disappointing White Wines
Remember buttery Chardonnays? White wine is quite susceptible to different winemaking techniques. I recently tasted two mainstream varieties, a Sauvignon Blanc and a Riesling, which reminded me how these wines used to taste in the ‘old days’. Passionate wine drinkers have moved on, and so have leading producers.
The first was the Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. Immediately, the palate gets attacked by grassy and gooseberry flavours. They are so strong, it is irrelevant that otherwise the wine is well made.
Score: 85/—
Gunderloch is highly regarded for their sweet and late harvest wines, such as Trockenbeerenauslese. The entry level is the Gunderloch Fritz Riesling. This wine is slightly sweet, but the main issue here is the lack of structure. The wine sits slightly round in the mouth, not moving down the palate. It is neither refreshing nor delicate.
Score: 85/—
Wednesday, March 15, 2023
Cape Mentelle Trinders Cabernet Merlot
Trinders is the second or maybe third level of red wines at Cape Mentelle. Therefore, when the 2017 Cape Mentelle Trinders Cabernet Merlot was opened, I did not expect too much. Indeed, the wine was friendly, easy to drink. I did not think too much about it, but decided to review it on the second day of opening.
And what a revelation it was. The dark fruits on the nose were pure and of medium intensity. This translated perfectly onto the palate. Blackcurrant, blackberry, mulberry notes, tobacco and some gun powder created a great mouthfeel. It is more characteristic of Cabernet Sauvignon than Merlot. This is a medium- to full-bodied wine, very harmonious. The firm tannins lead to a long finish: beautiful.
Score: 93/+++
PS: This wine and a note that a Taylor’s Chardonnay had just won a major competition made me reflect on the show awards system. Here, the first impression counts. This mostly translates into very fruity wines with a lot of oak. The Trinders reviewed above would not have had a chance. Does this mean avoid medal winners like the plague?
Wednesday, March 8, 2023
Chartron et Trébuchet Pouilly-Fuissé
When people think of White Burgundy, they mostly think of the Montrachet and Meursault subregions. However, prices of these wines have increased just as much as for Red Burgundy, making these wines special occasion wines for most. A bit further south, as part of the Mâconnais subregion, is the appelation of Pouilly-Fuissé. Only Chardonnay is grown here, and offered at a fraction of the price of its more famous neighbours.
The 2021 Chartron et Trébuchet Pouilly-Fuissé is not a very complex Chardonnay, but it is very clean. Yellow flower scents are attractive on the nose. Stone fruits and lemon zest hit the palate first. The wine is enriched with oatmeal and hazelnut flavours, probably delivered by light to medium toasted oak. This is a good quality food wine, not too demanding on the palate.
Score: 91/+