Sunday, August 16, 2020

Penfolds Grange (edited)

 It had to be done. I recently opened my last bottle of the legendary 1990 Penfolds Grange ( legendary, because it was the first year when the term 'Hermitage' was dropped from the label, and when it became the world number one wine in Wine Spectator putting the wine on the world stage). This bottle was re-corked at one of the Penfolds clinics in 2016. As a result, this wine had a very high shoulder (see image).

The wine was decanted over a meter away from me, yet I immediately took in the strong and unmistakable Grange aroma: intense dark fruit and sweetness. It is unmistakable because of the extraordinary choice of grapes Penfolds has, and the fermentation process, which gets completed in new American oak. 

Much has been written about this wine. The highlights of this bottle were the extraordinary freshness after 30 years, and what Robert Parker coined 'skyscraper structure'. Within the skyscraper were layers and layers of fruit, and mocha.  On the back palate were meaty flavours. I had paired this with wagyu beef. The wine and food were totally in unison. In fact, if there was not the difference between liquid and solid, I would not have picked the difference. And then, the finish of the Grange went on and on.   

Those who have followed my blog for some time would have noticed my increasing dislike for overripe wine. Experiencing a full-bodied Grange is different. This was a remarkable Penfolds Grange.

Score: 98/+++

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