The internationally best known German Riesling estates are from the Mosel; think Dr. Loosen, J.J. Pruem etc. This is partly due to their marketing skill, partly the American sweet tooth and their interest in Auslese and Spaetlese wines. In Germany, wines from the Rheingau and Rheinhessen are held in the highest esteem. The Keller wines sit right at the top.
A little while ago, I reviewed an astonishing Riesling from Keller. Today we step down from those lofty heights, and I will review a still very good Kabinett Riesling from Rheinhessen.
The 2015 Keller 'von der Fels' Riesling shows a brilliant green-golden colour. This wine from a warm vintage fills the mouth with grapefruit, stone fruit and some tropical flavours, yet has enough energy and acidity to drive down the palate to a dry finish. This is an elegant wine, a little forward perhaps, but the focus and fine finish are rewarding.
Score: 90/++
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