Saturday, April 22, 2017

Ulithorne Chi Grenache Shiraz


When the fruit of the 2012 Ulithorne Chi Grenache Shiraz hits the front palate, the sensation is attractive. The fruit has depth, the plum and blackberry flavours are very pure. This small scale operation certainly is quite meticulous about the grape treatment. The mouthfeel initially is very satisfying with good fruit concentration,  sweet flavour and fine tannins. The Shiraz component of the wine manages to hold on to this impression on the mid palate, but on the back palate, the wine drops off. The tannins do not quite stand up to the ripe fruit.

Score: 92/+

Wednesday, April 19, 2017

E. Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi

The warm 2000 vintage was hailed by the Americans as one of the best in Barolo, as the fruit was ripe and concentrated, whereas the Italians saw it as atypical. The charismatic Chiara Boschis, who became winemaker in 1990, uses modern methods, with shortened maceration periods and maturation in French barriques. This may have been the right thing in this vintage. So I was quite excited to open this bottle of 2000 E. Pira Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi, from one of the legendary vineyards in the heart of Barolo. As an aside, this vineyard is shared by 17 producers.

The wine is  typical of the variety. Tar and roses feature strongly. The colour is darker than is typical of Barolo, pointing to quite concentrated dark cherry fruit. However, the fruit has now faded somewhat. Savoury flavours dominate, and in particular the firm and very dry tannins. The finish is long.

This is an outstanding wine, suited to those who like Barolo. It needs food, in particular protein, and is best drunk now.

Score: 95/++

Saturday, April 15, 2017

Price Vs. Quality Of Diverse Pinot Noirs

Recently, I tasted a number of quite diverse Pinot Noirs.  I tried to work out how to compare them. Sometimes, a graph can say as much as 1000 words. In this case, I plotted price vs. assessed quality on the following chart.
1 Kooyong Massale 2016
2 Home Hill Estate 2015
3 Bass Phillip Estate 2014
4 Kooyong Meres 2014
5 Valli Gibbston 2014
6 Bruno Colin Bourgogne 2014
7 Benjamin Leroux Savigny-les-Beaune 2014
8 Mongeard-Mugneret Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Petit Monts 2013
9 Domaine de la Vougeraie Corton Grand Cru 2014
10 Williams Selyem Central Coast 2010

What is immediately obvious is that the 1er Cru and Grand Cru Burgundies are a multiple in prices of the Australian wines, yet in quality, there is not much difference. The Mongeard-Mugneret was the best wine of the night, but the Grand Cru disappointed, relatively. So, buyer beware! The California wine was also twice in price of the Australian wines, without added quality rating.

Of the Australian Pinot Noirs, Kooyong did very well. The Massale was the value for money wine, and the Meres was the second best wine of the night. It is 100% whole bunch, and has feminine qualities, with strawberry fruit and a very silky finish.

Any questions?  

Wednesday, April 12, 2017

A. Christmann Riesling

This 2015 A. Christmann Riesling from the Pfalz shows a wonderful bright golden colour, hinting at a bigger wine than common from the more northern and western parts of Germany. This continues on the nose with a bouquet of apricot and peach.

This is a fairly full-bodied Riesling, but it is not sweet, nor overly fruity on the palate. The fruit is apricot and white peach, but the highlight is the texture of the wine. The mouthfeel is complete and full-filling. The wine is well balanced, although the acidity is certainly low. The wine goes down the palate in a very even manner, leading to a slightly creamy finish.

This is a classy wine. I suggest to drink it in the next 1-2 years, while it still has refreshing characteristics.

Score: 93/+++  

Monday, April 10, 2017

Lucy Margaux Wines

Lucy Margaux is one of the new breed of natural wine producers. Nothing gets added, no fining, no filtration. If wines were scored on the old 20 point scale, where 3 points are reserved for colour, these wines would not get out of the starting blocks. The colour of the wines is cloudy. Is this a fault? Not necessarily. The proof is really in the drinking.

The first wine I taste is the 2016 Lucy Margaux Vino Rosso Sangiovese Pinot Gris. You now know already that conventions do not count for much here. This wine is a 50/50 blend. Maybe the Pinot Gris is supposed to do to the Sangiovese the same as the Viognier to Shiraz. But do you need 50%? The wine is very fruity and sweet and bares little resemblance to the kind of wines I normally drink (82 points).

The main game is Pinot Noir. The first of four is the 2016 Village of Tiers Pinot Noir. This is quite an accomplished effort. Forest berries dominate on the palate, before some elegant tannins kick in (89 points). Then come the single vineyard wines. The 2016 Little Creek Pinot Noir is much darker, with black cherry fruit and fresh acidity - a well structured wine (92 points). The 2016 Monomeith Pinot Noir is quite different. It is red fruited and very feminine with an open and gentle texture (91 points). The 2016 Estate Pinot Noir is from the home vineyard. Its profile sits in the middle between the last two. It is the most complex wine with quite an intriguing fruit mix on the palate (92 points).

The Pinot Noirs are certainly an interesting set of wines. I have been worried about the age-ability of natural wines, but apparently a six year old Monomeith was drinking well, according to a friend. One concern is that Anton van Klopper, the winemaker has now stopped to add any sulphur. He added a small amount in the past.

The types of wines tasted here find an enthusiastic following with young wine drinkers. I am still a little puzzled: normally, what you look for in wine is intensity and/or elegance, freshness or finesse. I am not sure what I am supposed to look for in natural wines, because they are not particularly strong on those dimensions. There is a strong philosophical bend in these wines, not to be a 'chemist', but an artist, says Anton van Klopper. Hmm.

If you look for something funky and different, and a natural wine made with some skill, then these Pinot Noirs could be for you.


Friday, April 7, 2017

Castagna Genesis Syrah

Julian Castagna is not known for modesty, but he is known for his convictions about bio-dynamics, including the moon cycles, and a desire to produce impressive, but only medium bodied wines.

These convictions are manifest in the 2004 Castagna Genesis Syrah. The nose is vibrant and perfumed. The aromatic violets come through on the palate, together with a complex set of berry fruits, blackberry, raspberry, red cherry. A thin layer of chocolate blends into the fruit. This is a female, medium bodied wine, very balanced, with enticing tannins and acidity in support. The wine expands on the finish, like a good Burgundy.

This wine drinks beautifully now. I loved it.

Score: 96/+++

Sunday, April 2, 2017

Spinifex Le Chemin

Drinking this 2009 Spinifex Le Chemin a day after the Duval just reviewed, it is astonishing how different these two wines, both from the Barossa, similar age, and Rhône varieties, are. I will give both wines the same score, but for totally different reasons. This is a good illustration that the descriptions say a lot more than points.

The Spinifex has a bright ruby colour as opposed to the Duval's almost black colour. This blend of five common Rhône varieties is vibrant and fresh at eight years of age. This is clearly due to the wine's high acidic backbone and the grapes' early picking. The wine is very spicy, with white pepper in particular. Herbaceous flavours are stronger than the raspberry fruit. Grenache is the dominant grape here, but the wine is not fruity. This wine is almost anti Barossan in style, and while I understand the sentiment, I would have enjoyed more harmony in the mouth.

Score: 92/++     

Saturday, April 1, 2017

John Duval Entity Shiraz

When John Duval, Penfolds' former highly regarded winemaker, branched out on his own, he was keen to make wine with more vitality, and therefore he sourced a lot of fruit from Eden Valley.

This 2010 John Duval Entity Shiraz has a sweet plum and mulberry core. This wine is more about depth and intensity. The firm tannins match the fruit, but elegance suffers as a result. This is a big, juicy wine with significant alcoholic content and feel. This wine can still be regarded as balanced (and attractive as such), but only just. One for lovers of Barossa Shiraz.

Score: 92/+

Tuesday, March 28, 2017

William Downie Gippsland Pinot Noir

Gippsland is not a major wine region. It is dairy country, and often very wet. However, some of the most interesting and exciting Australian Pinot Noirs can come from here. They tend to be funky, with a lot of personality. Is this due to the region or the two winemakers, Phillip Jones and William Downie, who trained under Jones for a while?

William Downie makes three Pinot Noirs from different Victorian regions, and the Gippsland wine is often the best, largely due to the silky tannins.This is a review of the 2010 William Downie Gippsland Pinot Noir.

The colour of the wine is still ruby, but the intensity has dropped over time and is now medium. This points to some ageing effect in the wine. Having said this, black cherry aromas are still strong.

Savoury characters dominate the palate, with mushroom characters and black olive. The phenolics of the wine are good. The tannins are firm; in fact the fruit is starting to lose out in weight against the strong structure. This is still an enticing wine, but I suggest to drink it now.

Score: 93/++


Sunday, March 19, 2017

Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon

The Penfolds Bin 407 is in similar ways a baby to the Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, as the Bin 389 is to Grange. Winemaking is similar, the fruit not of quite the same quality. If we were in Bordeaux, it would be called a second wine of one of the major Chateau's. I have high hopes for the 2010 Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon, as it comes from an outstanding vintage.

At seven years, the colour remains almost black. Black fruits frame the aroma. Blackcurrants dominate the palate. The fruit of this multi-district wine shows some of the sun-kissed characteristic of Coonawarra's Terra Rossa, but does not have the same intensity as the Bin 707. The mouthfeel is neither as round or deep as the big brother. On the plus side, there is not much of a hole on the mid-palate, as can be the case with Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine finishes with firm tannins and a pleasant oak infused aftertaste.

Score: 89/+  

Saturday, March 11, 2017

Domäne Wachau

Tasting the wines from the Domaene Wachau, in particular their Rieslings, is quite a different experience from tasting German Riesling. I will report on four wines from this large, high quality Austrian co-operative.

The two first Rieslings are from the 2015 vintage, which was warm in the Wachau, as in most parts of Europe. The white wines in the Wachau follow a three tiered system. The first is called Steinfeder. These are the lightest wines, early picked, with a maximum level of 11.5% alcohol. The second tier is called Federspiel, with 11.5-12.5% alcohol, and the third tier is the later picked Smaragd with >12.5% alcohol. These wines are still dry, but with bigger body and weight than the other two.

On to the tasting. The first wine is the 2015 Terassen Federspiel Riesling. The grapes come from the  highly regarded, higher elevation vineyards, which are situated on steep slopes leading to the Danube valley. This wine is very refreshing. The floral flavours are subdued, the fruit is not overt. The focus is on texture and minerality. This wine has benefitted from the warmer vintage. It has given the wine more body than normal. However, the wine is still quite linear, not complex, but rather delicate. I liked this wine a lot. In fact, it was my wine of the night (93/+++).

The 2015 Sinerriedel Smaragd Riesling is a single vineyard wine from the cooler western part of the Wachau. But as mentioned, 2015 was a warm year. This wine has a bigger body, and the wine is coating the mouth nicely. However, the wine is a bit broader and loses some definition before it comes to a smooth, prolonged finish. Again, texture is the main game for this good food wine (91/++).

Then there was the 2008 Kellerberg Smaragd Riesling, another single vineyard wine. This wine had aged quite a bit and showed toasted and quite earthy flavours on a fairly broad backbone. This wine did not do it for me (86/-).

Finally, a very rare mature Gruener Veltliner. Veltliner can age quite well, but it is mostly drunk young. Not many mature examples exist. The 2000 Kellerberg Smaragd Gruener Veltliner shows a lot of complexity. There are herbs, mint and truffle on the palate. This wine comes from a cool year. The wine is still fresh and elegant, with well integrated acidity - quite a revelation, and a great wine for many different foods (92/++).

Monday, March 6, 2017

Barossa vs. McLaren Vale Shiraz

This is actually an unfair comparison. The Coriole Lloyd Reserve is from Magnum and 2005, the Grant Burge Meshach is from a standard bottle and 2001. Both are the top wines of these respected wineries. You can predict the outcome and you would be right.

The 2005 Coriole Lloyd Reserve is in excellent condition. The dark cherry and plum flavours sit on a well balanced structure of good acidity and strong tannins. The finish of this full-bodied wine is long.

Score: 94/++

The Grant Burge Meshach tends to be a crowd favorite, as I have tested in blind tastings on a number of occasions. It is a full-bodied crowd pleaser, without going over the top. The 2001 Grant Burge Meshach is quite complex on the palate. There is the expected plum and blackberry, but also mocca and marzipan. But the drawback is that the wine is now a little tired. It would have been great five years ago.

Score: 93/+