Place of Changing Winds Syrah

 Robert Walters' passion is Pinot Noir. But his side kick Shiraz project in Heathcote should not be overlooked. I reviewed the 2020 Place of Changing Winds Syrah positively two years ago, and even found an improvement this time round.

The intellectual label is a bit difficult to decipher

The soil is mentioned on the left, the location on the right

This is a medium-bodied wine, unlike many from Heathcote. Purity and freshness strikes you on the palate. Red and black cherry are the fruit flavours, black olive, licorice, and a hint of black pepper deliver the savoury component, blending very nicely to a surprisingly intense mouthfeel. The tannins are medium, very dry and chalky. Every component has to come together very well. The wine has a long and lingering finish.

This wine is a very good example of a modern rendition of a medium-bodied Shiraz. It is quite complex and serious, but also delicious to drink, and good value. I liked this a lot.

Score: 95/+++

Spinifex Dominion Shiraz

 For most of us, it is not always possible to taste a wine before you buy it. You then often relate to the taste profile of a producer in general. In the case of Spinifex this would be fresh, and as Peter Schell would say, delicious. So the following is what I got when I opened a 2019 Spinifex Dominion Shiraz.

The colour of the wine is deep purple. I got dark fruit flavours on the nose, and this translated to the palate. This is a big and concentrated wine with blood plum and mulberry flavours. The wine delivers an intense mouthfeel. It is ripe, but not overripe, but not refreshing either. Dark chocolate and leathery notes reveal themselves mid-palate. Tannins are not very strong, and the finish is medium.

This wine comes from a Vine Vale vineyard with vines over 100 years old. It is the second Spinifex vineyard purchase after Rostein, and 2019 is the first vintage. I assume the soil is sandy, given the flavour profile and the purity of the fruit. The wine caught me with surprise being from Spinifex, but it is a good example of Barossa Valley Shiraz.

Score: 94/++

Penfolds The Max Schubert Cabernet Shiraz

 Penfolds is essentially positioned as a premium wine brand. Lately, however, a number of one-off products were released where the pricing no longer relates to the cost or value of the product, but rather to a recognition and admiration for the Penfolds name. It positions these prestige products similar to brands like Rolex, Hermès or Birkin. The wine I am reviewing here is a single product wine, but it was created before the prestige strategy was introduced. The 2012 Penfolds The Max Schubert Cabernet Shiraz is of course a premium wine. It was created to mark the centenary of Max Schubert's birth. The wine is inspired by the famous 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A in that it is also a blend of premium Coonawarra Cabernet fruit and Barossa Shiraz fruit. In this case, the ratio is 61% to 39%.

It turns out, this is a remarkable wine. It is rich and concentrated. It also shows why a Cabernet/Shiraz blend is such a good idea. The red fruited Cabernet provides the drive, the Shiraz fruit fills the mouth. The palate is complex and layered. Redcurrant and mulberry unfolds first, followed by velvety blackberry fruit and finally a dose of mocca. The wine is in perfect balance, as the 100% new American oak is well integrated. (This can be a challenge and requires first class ripe, but not overripe fruit.)  The wine has a persistent and clean finish which goes on and on.

At 13 years old, this is a perfect time to drink this wine. The structure is strong, the fruit is still vibrant, and the tannins have started to soften. One of my favorite wines this year so far.

Score: 98/+++

Eisenstone Ebenezer Shiraz

 When I visited Stephen Cook, the winemaker of the relatively new winery Eisenstone in the Barossa, I think it was in 2017 or 2018, my book 'Barossa Shiraz' featured on the tasting table. He explained that his focus to showcase the different subregions of the Barossa was heavily influenced by my book. Since then, his winery has gone from strength to strength. Yesterday, I revisited the 2019 Eisenstone Ebenezer Shiraz, which I bought on this visit.

Given the location, I expect a fairly rich wine infused with chocolate flavours. And yes, this is what I got. Black plum and blackberry fruit flavours are concentrated. Sweet mocca flavours deliver a rich mouthfeel. Ironstone and charred meat flavours add to the complexity. The additional years in bottle deliver a well rounded wine. The fruit comes from the famous Hoffmann vineyard, some from 1965 fruit, some from young vines. The wine is full-bodied, and with a surprising lift on the finish.

This wine, as I think the general positioning of Eisenstone wines, sits in the middle between the ripe wines of, say Torbreck or Standish, and the new wave of winemakers who pick early, and sometimes a little green. As such, it takes full advantage of the uniqueness, the Barossa climate can deliver in Shiraz,

without going to extremes. One can drink more than one glass of this wine, but it is also totally safe to cellar this wine for many more years. 

Score: 95/+++

Shaw + Smith Lenswood Chardonnay

 I talked recently about the high quality of value priced Australian Chardonnays. This is not where the current Australian Chardonnay story ends. The premium Chardonnays can be of outstanding quality as well. One such example is the 2023 Shaw + Smith Lenswood Chardonnay of the Adelaide Hills.

2023 was a cold and wet vintage, not dissimilar to 2011. 2011 delivered very good white wines, though. And the same seems to happen with 2023 white wines. The standard and very good Shaw + Smith Chardonnay is called M3. It sits in the middle between the richer and lean styles. The 2023 Shaw + Smith Lenswood Chardonnay comes from special high altitude parcels of this vineyard. This wine sits closer to the leaner end, and what a wine it is.

The flavours are citrus, pear and ginger, and the acidity is quite high. What impresses is the incredible energy and drive of this wine. The wine is intense, steely and highly strung, with terrific precision. It is flinty and has a long mineral finish. It would not have to hide behind Burgundy Grand Cru.

Some Adelaide Hills Chardonnay can be truly exceptional, think Petaluma Piccadilly Chardonnay or Penfolds Bin A Chardonnay as well. As an aside, has Henschke ever produced a white wine close to this quality from their Lenswood vineyard?

Score: 97/+++ 

Spinifex La Maline Shiraz

The 2021 Spinifex La Maline is the successor of the 2018, but it arrives in a different reincarnation. It now comes from the Eden Valley (Barossa Valley before). In fact, it is a parcel of Peter Schell's and Magali Gely's own Rostein vineyard. As before, it includes a small portion of Viognier, 2% this year. I am not sure this label will survive or be subsumed into the Rostein wine. 

The 2021 vintage was another cool vintage. It is interesting to see how this effects a higher altitude Eden Valley wine, even more so, as 35% whole bunches are included. 

The colour of the wine is deep purple. It still looks very fresh.

On the palate, the first impression is the purity of fruit, but also the quite dense and concentrated mouthfeel. Blackberry, mulberry, black olive and leather deliver an attractive flavour profile. Black pepper is a big factor. The wine has some similarity to cool climate Victorian wines from a flavour profile point of view, but it is richer and riper. Tannins and finish are medium.

Score: 94/++

 

Devotus Pinot Noir

 Martinborough is a small and very special place for making Pinot Noir. This is where Ata Rangi is located, as well as Dry River, Kusuda, and a few others. For me, the silky tannins and ethereal character of the wines are the hallmark of this region. Now, a new specialist has emerged, Devotus. The 2.5 ha site is only planted to Pinot Noir. The winemaker, ex Dr River I believe, is devoted to Pinot Noir. This is obviously very small production. I was given a bottle of this special wine.

The 2021 Devotus Pinot Noir is quite concentrated. The purity of fruit, an indication of the meticulous work in the vineyard as well as the winery, is impressive. Black cherry flavours dominate. This is nothing like the much more savoury expression of Dry River. This is quite a big wine, still smooth and elegant on the palate. The tannins are quite soft. Overall, the wine is perhaps a little bit too focussed on fruit, but this is a very promising start. A winery to watch.

Score: 94/++ 

 

Moorooduc Shiraz

 Moorooduc is best known for Pinot Noir. Some time ago they offered a six pack of some of their strong wines, which included a 2015 Moorooduc Shiraz. I was intrigued.

It is immediately pretty obvious that this is not your typical Shiraz. The colour is bright red to start with.

It does not have the depth of South Australian Shiraz, nor the peppery notes of cooler climate Shiraz. Red cherry notes are prominent on the palate, but the wine tastes quite confected and chewy. It was sharp initially, but this disappeared after opening for some time. it did not reach the elegance though, a wine of this style should achieve. The bright acidity kept the wine alive, but also emphasizes the light finish. 

Score: 87/-

Larnook Grenache Gris

 

Here is another terrific value wine made from the seldom seen in Australia Grenache Gris grape. The 2024 Larnook Grenache Gris combines lightness and freshness with more textural elements, often found in southern Rhône whites. White flower, apple, and almond flavours combine to an appealing mouthfeel. The lively acidity delivers a crisp finish. 30% of the wine has been matured (for a short time) in oak.

Score: 93/+++ 

Miraval Rosé

 

In Asia, I enjoyed the Miraval Côtes de Provence Rosé, as did many others. The domaine and winery has a glamorous history. There is a recording studio, where Sting recorded, and Pink Floyd laid down tracks for The Wall album. I think they once released a wine called Pink Floyd. In 2011, Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt bought the Domaine and 50% of the wine business. Their share was sold to a Russian vodka business in 2021. However, the other 50% is owned by the Perrin family of Château Beaucastel fame. Marc Perrin is responsible for winemaking.

While the wine would fit into the pale Rosés of Provence, it is not pale to oblivion. Equally, it is not hearty, like some Barossa Rosés. Colour and flavour add up to a nice balance of this easy drinking style. The grapes are Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle, and Shiraz. Roses and strawberry flavours, backed by some citrus zest, deliver a refreshing mouthfeel. Natural acidity keeps the mouth fresh and dry and the minerality on the finish invites you to another glass.

Score: 92/+++

Three Value Chardonnays

 It is not a secret that the quality of moderately priced Australian Chardonnays has gone up dramatically in the last few years. They are now perhaps the best value proposition in the world. This is in particular true for Chardonnays from the Yarra Valley. Here are three I recently tried.

The first is the 2021 Wheeler Electric Lines Chardonnay. This is the first time I come across this producer, and I am very impressed. This fresh wine of citrus flavours is quite tight and linear in a modern style. The wine has good depth and bright acidity. There is minerality on the pretty long finish, like a classy Chablis.

Score: 94/+++

The 2024 Hoddles Creek Chardonnay is much better known. This wine  is broader and quite fruity, and fills the mouth with its citrus and pear flavours, and ends nicely on a mineral finish. It is very young now, and would be a better drink in a year's time.

Score: 90/+

The 2024 Giant Steps Chardonnay is a little superior, in my opinion. It does have intensity of citrus and stone fruits, but matches this with a good drive down the palate. This is a smooth wine with a crisp finish, but not as good value as the other two.

Score: 92/++

Cabernet's from Margaret River and Hawke's Bay

 

It was difficult to come to generalized conclusions in a recent comparison tasting of Cabernet's from Margaret River and Hawke's Bay. The wines varied wildly in age, grape composition, and screw cap vs. cork also made a difference.

The two Gimblett Gravels wines from Hawke's Bay, the 2021 Tom by Church Road, and the 2013 Sophia by Craggy Range, were full-bodied, with the Sophia quite rich and dense, whereas the 2021 Tom was more red fruited with a silky finish. New oak was significant in both wines.

In contrast, the Te Mata Coleraine comes from vineyards near Havelock North, with a different soil profile. This shows in the wine, which is a bit lighter, savoury, and higher levels of acidity. 

The Margaret River wines were very different from each other. The 2014 Woodlands 'Matthew' is quite open and fruit oriented, the 2008 Howard Park 'Abercrombie' was surprisingly sweet and ripe, whereas the 2005 Diana Madeline from Cullen impressed with its complex palate of various fruits, licorice, dark chocolate and earthy notes.

I could not draw any generalizations from this comparison, maybe other than 'when wines come from similar climates, it is down to the winemaker'.