Three Value Chardonnays

 It is not a secret that the quality of moderately priced Australian Chardonnays has gone up dramatically in the last few years. They are now perhaps the best value proposition in the world. This is in particular true for Chardonnays from the Yarra Valley. Here are three I recently tried.

The first is the 2021 Wheeler Electric Lines Chardonnay. This is the first time I come across this producer, and I am very impressed. This fresh wine of citrus flavours is quite tight and linear in a modern style. The wine has good depth and bright acidity. There is minerality on the pretty long finish, like a classy Chablis.

Score: 94/+++

The 2024 Hoddles Creek Chardonnay is much better known. This wine  is broader and quite fruity, and fills the mouth with its citrus and pear flavours, and ends nicely on a mineral finish. It is very young now, and would be a better drink in a year's time.

Score: 90/+

The 2024 Giant Steps Chardonnay is a little superior, in my opinion. It does have intensity of citrus and stone fruits, but matches this with a good drive down the palate. This is a smooth wine with a crisp finish, but not as good value as the other two.

Score: 92/++

Yarra Yering No1 Cabernet Blend

 I am digging into a number of wines from the 2018 vintage. It is regarded as a very good one with a hot summer early on, but then an Indian summer towards vintage. Today's tasting is of the 2018 Yarra Yering No1 Cabernet Blend. Cabernet Sauvignon, the leading variety in this wine, has always been the flagship of Yarra Yering. How is this vintage shaping up?

I am blown over by my first taste. This is a big wine. Redcurrant and ripe raspberry flavours deliver a big fruit profile. Different in flavour, but similar in fruit weight to the Cirillo I reviewed just before. Despite the fruit concentration, the wine has good energy, and is balanced with fine grained tannins. The savoury characters need to come through to deliver complexity. This is another example where the screw cap slows down development (as I see particularly in Felton Road and Tyrells wines).

This wine has the potential to be great, but if you have it, do not drink before 2028.

Score: 95/++

 

Giant Steps Single Vineyard Pinot Noirs

 Giant Steps received great accolades for its 2023 Single Vineyard Pinot Noirs. To see how they develop, I opened a couple of these wines from 2021.

The 2021 Giant Steps Wombat Creek Pinot Noir comes from perhaps the most challenging vineyard in the Yarra Valley. It is the most elevated at over 400m. Giant Steps does not make wine from it every year. It did not, as far as I know, in 2023, a very cool year.

But lets look at 2021. The colour is very bright pink, translating into vibrant red cherry flavours. The wine is really intense in its fruit flavours, almost jumps out of the glass. It is backed by savoury notes and firm tannins before a medium plus finish. The wine is not too complex in its flavour profile, but it is very well made and has a great structure. I found it quite exciting.

Score: 95/+++

The 2021 Giant Steps Primavera Vineyard Pinot Noir is also from a higher altitude vineyard at 240m.  It shows a more complex fruit profile, with red and black cherry flavours dominant, and a fragrant mouthfeel. This wine is quite soft in the mouth. Again, there are savoury or mushroom flavours. The tannins are soft.

In terms of quality, it is high in both wines, but the focus is quite different. The Wombat Creek wine is about structure, whereas Primavera is about flavour complexity.

Score: 95/+++

Both wines indicate excellent and site specific winemaking. They hint at great things to come from this winery.

Mount Mary Quintet Vertical

 Vertical tastings, not easy to come by, are great opportunities to identify a producer's style, while also appreciating vintage variations. I was lucky to recently participate in a vertical tasting of Mount Mary Quintet from this iconic producer of the Yarra Valley. The Quintet has never been a top pick for me. This tasting has told me why. These wines only come into their own once they are at least 10 years old - and I never had the patience. This tasting spans vintages from 2017 to 2002.

The youngest wine, the Quintet 2017, was the least impressive. The wine is red fruited, with red cherry and raspberry flavours. The fruit has great purity and is enriched by mocca flavours. I notice a whole in the mid-palate, typical for Cabernet Sauvignon, even though the Quintet includes Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Hard to know if the wine will integrate as well as the older ones on tasting, but judging the wine as it is, I give it 93 points.

The Quintet 2013 impresses with quite a purple colour. The wine is very aromatic on the nose. In the mouth, it feels a little leaner. This is supported by some blue fruit flavours, which add to the raspberry, plum, and mocca character. In this wine, the different grape varieties are well integrated, and the mouthfeel is seamless (95 points). 

The Quintet 2012 is very different. This is quite a big and fruity wine; concentrated, yet very balanced. There is cassis and graphite on the palate and some muskiness. This is complex, with a long finish (97 points).

When we come to the Quintet 2005, we notice a difference due to age. This is now a wine on the plateau of development. It is very settled, a bit more linear than the bigger mouthfeel of the 2012. This wine is dark fruited and very elegant. It offers less generosity than the 2012, but a long and silky finish (95 points).

The Quintet 2002, from a cooler year, is still very much alive. The colour is still dark and intense, not at all flaky. This wine could be taken for a 1st or 2nd growth Bordeaux. Layers of red and black fruits are very smooth on the palate; chocolate and hints of muskiness. I detect some bret, but at this level it is not distracting. This is a beautiful aged Yarra Valley Cabernet (96 points). 

What are the key takeaways? As already mentioned, this wine should be drunk at 10 years plus. Also, as others have suggested, high quality aged Cabernet tends to end up in a similar spot (of taste).

 

A Winning Strategy?

 We all like to acquire an excellent wine at a low price. Is there a systematic way of doing this? One approach is to buy a second or third level wine from a leading winemaking team. Well, this can work to some extent, but there is a reason why these wines are second or third tier. I have now come across another approach. It is terroir related. The first wine is from Lusatia Park, Yarra Valley. This vineyard has delivered fruit to Giant Steps, Oakridge, Phi and others. Since 2015, the site is owned by De Bortoli. Interestingly, this name is not found on the label of their 2022 Riorret Lusatia Park Pinot Noir.

The wine comes across as quite fruity, in a typical strawberry, red cherry blend. It is a lively wine, and some savoury backbone starts to develop on the mid-palate. The wine is medium weight, with a balanced mouthfeel. The tannins are mild and the finish medium. This is a good quality all-rounder, but it lacks the sophistication of a top Yarra Pinot Noir.

Score: 93/++

So, has this approach been successful? I guess to a degree, but not completely.

The second wine is the 2022 Terra Sancta Mysterious Diggings Pinot Noir.

This wine is from Central Otago. In fact, the vineyard is right next to the original Felton Road vineyard. It sits at 300m altitude and consists of sandy soils.

This is a more intense wine than the first wine, with red and black cherry fruit, raspberry, black truffle, and forest floor. There is good complexity in this energetic wine. It is also fruit dominant and delivers a silky mouthfeel. Other elements fall in the mid range: body weight, tannins, and finish.

Again, the wine is good quality, a bit darker and bigger than the first wine.

Score: 93/++

So, is this strategy working? The wines did not disappoint, and they deliver very good value for money, in particular the Mysterious Diggings. But is it a major revelation or an absolute steal? Probably not. The wine market is quite efficient. 

Giant Steps Applejack Pinot Noir

 Giant Steps is one of the success stories of the Yarra Valley. Like few others, Giant Steps have emphasised the characteristics of different vineyard sites. Still, we have perhaps not conclusively progressed past the differences between the Valley Floor and the Upper Yarra Valley.

The Applejack vineyard fulfills many conditions for great Pinot Noir; it is closely planted with seven clones; a sloped vineyard at higher altitude; east facing. The only drawback; clay soil, not ideal for energetic Pinot Noir.

The 2021 Giant Steps Applejack Pinot Noir is very perfumed, with rose petals so present.

On the palate, we experience a typical Yarra Valley fruit profile; strawberry, raspberry, red cherry. The flavours are not overly complex, but the texture is very appealing with silky tannins present along the palate, and on the long finish.

The wine presents a little fruity now, but with time is likely to deliver more complexity.

Score: 94/++

Australia vs. New Zealand Pinot Noir Tasting

 A couple of days ago, I tasted six premium Australian and six premium New Zealand Pinot Noirs. Who came out ahead? Perhaps surprising, I scored the Australian Pinot Noirs slightly higher. Why? There were clearly country differences. The Australian wines were quite savoury and often with good energy. The New Zealand wines were fruitier and often a little round with not enough to show on the finish.

My top wine, unexpected, was the 2019 Picardy Tête de Cuvée from Pemberton. This is Picardy's best Pinot Noir of the vintage. Some of the fruit is densely planted, and the yields are low. The wine opens quite light on the palate, as the red and dark cherry fruit emerges. This is quite a complex and earthy wine with cigar box flavours underneath. The tannins are fine, supported by 30% whole bunch, and the finish is long (96/+++ points). Just behind was the 2020 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, quite an intense, dark fruited wine. The mouthfeel is plush and smooth, and very textural. The wine has good persistence and a long finish (96/+++ points). 

In the next level came the highly acclaimed 2022 Ossa Pinot Noir from the Belrose vineyard near Swansea. The fruit is quite young and vibrant, and the wine has good intensity, but feels slightly blocky in the mouth. The 2022 Giant Steps Wombat Creek tasted of red cherry, with medium intensity and fine tannins - overall a more balanced wine. Also impressive was the 2018 Moondarra Sambaside Pinot Noir, a new label to me. This wine was on the lighter side with savoury notes, not dissimilar to the Picardy (93/94 points for these wines).

The next group included three wines from New Zealand, the 2022 Two Paddocks Estate Pinot Noir, the 2021 Valli Gibbston Vineyard Pinot Noir, and the 2022 High Garden Vineyard Pinot Noir. As mentioned, these wines have a strong fruit profile, but were not as well structured as the wines above (92 points).

The final group included the 2021 Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir, the 2021 Shaw & Smith Lenswood Pinot Noir, the 2020 Neudorf Home Block, and the 2016 Fromm Cuvee H Pinot Noir - all 90 points.

De Bortoli Estate Vineyard Chardonnay

 De Bortoli is mainly know for its famous Noble One brand. But one should not forget it has sizable vineyard holdings in the Yarra Valley. This 2018 De Bortoli Estate Vineyard Chardonnay comes from there. 

The wine has an attractive mouthfeel with green apple and peach flavours. There are also some nutty notes. This is well balanced with sufficient acidity. The finish is a little short, but the overall 'package' is impressive for a value wine.

Score: 90/+

Innocent Bystander Pinot Gris

 

I find discussions about the names of grape varieties boring and not very helpful. Is everything named Syrah really cool climate? Is everything named Pinot Grigio like the light Italian style or Pinot Gris like the Alsace examples? So let us just look what is in the bottle, in this case the 2021 Innocent Bystander Pinot Gris from the Yarra Valley.

The colour of this young wine has a green tinge, and it kind of translates to the palate, where the main flavour is pear, supported by green apple and a dash of lemon. This wine delivers a fairly full mouthfeel and is a little broad. However, the fruit is balanced by lively acidity driving the wine to a decent finish.

Score: 90/++

Mayer Yarra Valley Syrah

 Timo Mayer is a charismatic winemaker, and his wines have personality, too. This is certainly true of the 2018 Mayer Yarra Valley Syrah. The Syrah labelling  indicates this wine is cool climate. Indeed, it comes from the upper part of his vineyard.

There is great purity of fruit on the palate; red currant, plum and blackberry. Black pepper supports the fruit flavours. The intensity of this bold wine focussed on primary fruit is quite high. I found the wine a little fruity, although the firm tannins and the spicy finish bring home a balanced wine.

This wine is 100% whole bunch, like the last wine I reviewed. However, it does not quite have the same impact.

Score: 93/+

Yering Station Chardonnay

 If you are looking for a high quality value Chardonnay, there is no better place in Australia than the Yarra Valley. This time, I am reviewing the 2020 Yering Station Chardonnay.

This is a pale and quite austere wine. Stone fruit flavours are added to by some earthy notes. This wine is quite dry, with a balanced mouthfeel and a fresh finish.

This wine is not overly complex, but the winemaking is excellent.

Score: 91/++

Giant Steps Chardonnay

 In the last ten years, Giant Steps have made - I have to say it - giant steps towards outstanding quality, in particular with its single vineyard wines. This, however, is a review of the 2021 Giant Steps Chardonnay, the entry level wine. The grapes are sourced from five vineyards in the Yarra Valley, some declassified from the single vineyard wines.

This is a vibrant wine from a great vintage in the Yarra Valley. Green apple and citrus flavours are interwoven with fresh acidity leading to a balanced finish. This is a very pleasant wine. The mouthfeel is a little simple, not too deep, but refreshing with a medium finish. 

Score: 91/++ 

Rochford 400 Gradi Chardonnay

 Upping the ante with a sub $15/bottle wine from the Yarra Valley. The Gradi wine is a special Rochford release for the joint venture restaurant in the Yarra Valley with Melbourne's pizza king. And a pizza wine it is!

The 2019 Rochford 400 Gradi Chardonnay tastes of citrus and green apple. The flavours are light and a bit metallic. The acid tastes added. Overall, this is an acceptable quaffer, but not very harmonious.

Score: 84/--

  

Can Sauvignon Blanc Age?

 A few days ago, I had an opportunity to taste a couple of older Sauvignon Blancs. They were not pure, but the 2010 Mount Mary Triolet included at least 75% Sauvignon Blanc, barrel-fermented, and the 2016 Blanc de Lynch-Bages had 52% Sauvignon Blanc. The other varieties in both cases are Semillon, and Muscadelle.

In terms of the question asked in the headline, the Lynch-Bages has the advantage. The Semillon component is larger, and the wine less old. And it showed.

The Lynch-Bages had good energy. There was a tropical expression on the palate, with pineapple and guava flavours. I tasted cinnamon spice as well. The wine delivered an attractive velvety mouthfeel. It was still fresh (92 points).

The Triolet had an attractive entry on the palate. The flavours were more in the citrus spectrum, but I detected a bit of guava as well. However, it fell off on the back palate and the wine finished quite flat. The second taste was a bit more satisfying (89 points).

Has the question been answered? Not really. The Triolet made you question the ageing potential, and the Lynch-Bages had too much Semillon in the wine to answer in the positive.

 

Yeringberg Pinot Noir

 The Yeringberg winery has famous neighbours in Yarra Yering and Coldstream Hills. Like the generations before, the fourth generation of the founding family is focussed on quality. The low production allows it to eschew all forms of publicity, hype and marketing. Therefore, it is not often talked about. Yesterday, I drank the 2015 Yeringberg Pinot Noir.

On the nose, I experienced wet forest floor or even the opening of a can of wet tennis balls.

This is a very savoury wine, not unlike by Farr. Mushroom, red capsicum, tomato, and earthy flavours emerge on the palate of this smooth wine. The structure is solid, even though acidity and tannins are quite light. The only drawback: this subtle wine can be overwhelmed by food.

Score: 93/++

  

Oakridge Henk Chardonnay

 It is time to look at value, after quite a few reviews of pricey wines. This one is worth your while checking out, but let us first look at the label. You do not see this every day.

So the back label is partly covering the front label. This was not spotted as bottles were moved onto the pallets? Anyway, what is in the bottle is what counts.

White peach, passionfruit, and citrus deliver an attractive flavour mix of this 2019 Oakridge Henk Chardonnay. There is great purity and precision in this wine, backed by fine acidity. You do not normally find this at this price point. The crispness and minerality speak of the vineyard, which is on red volcanic soil at the higher altitude of Woori Yallock in the Yarra Valley. The finish is medium long.

Highly recommended.

Score: 93/+++ 

Mount Mary Quintet

The legendary Yarra Valley Cabernet Blend, how would it hold up against the Lafite-Rothschild, previously reviewed? A bit unfair, why? It is one of Australia's leading wines.

The 2004 Mount Mary Quintet shows the strengths and weaknesses of this label all in one. Firstly, the wine is still in good form, which is a relief, as it is under cork.

The wine is red fruited, very pretty and smooth. There are some earthy notes here as well. At first blush, it actually has similarities with the Lafite. But on the mid and back palate it starts to wear a little thin. The structure holds up to a decent finish, but the mouthfeel not as much. 

And this is the issue with Cabernet from the Yarra Valley. I am in the camp with those who say this region is Pinot Noir territory as far as red wine is concerned. Having said this, this Mount Mary Quintet does a pretty good job. 

Score: 94/++

Hoddles Creek Estate Chardonnay

 Hoddles Creek Chardonnay is probably my favorite go-to Chardonnay for everyday drinking. I must not call it a quaffer. It is much better than that.

The 2020 Hoddles Creek Chardonnay is a little richer and broader than previous vintages. The citrus, white peach, and slight hazelnut flavours fill out the mouth a bit more. This is not a bad thing, as the presence of lively acidity balances the fruit out well.

This wine is terrific value for money, due to the excellent cost control of this winery. It has been suggested to age this wine a little bit, and it makes some sense, but unfortunately, I will not manage to do that.

Score: 92/+++

 

Mount Mary Réflexion

A few years ago, Mount Mary did something bold. Mount Mary is one of a few Australian wineries which only wants to produce super premium quality at super premium prices. Then it was decided to bring out a new wine, a seldom done straight Cabernet Franc, and at half or less the usual price point. Risky, trashing the brand? Let's find out.

The 2017 Mount Mary Réflexion from relatively young vines has a ruby colour of medium intensity. It is fruity on the nose, with aromas of violets.

On the palate, varietal raspberry and red currant flavours stand out. They are not sweet, and accompanied by spices, cedar and acidity. There is good energy, driving this medium-bodied wine down the palate.

This wine is a perfectly serious red wine for the summer months. The tannins are quite light, and overall this wine delivers finesse with quite a persistent finish.

The Réflexion stands separate in a crowded Australian wine market, and this can only be a good thing.

Score: 94/++

A. Rodda Willow Lake Chardonnay

It took me a while to like this label, but I do now. It so starkly depicts the hard work in the vineyard. Why not?

The 2018 A. Rodda Willow Lake Chardonnay is a worthy successor to the excellent 2017 (reviewed on this blog). The colour is green-golden, but not as pale as a Riesling I opened at the same time.

Citrus, green apple, and some warmth from passionfruit delivers complexity and good fruit weight. The wine has great drive due to its acidic backbone. It is more long than broad in the mouth, but I would not describe it as linear.

This is an excellent modern Chardonnay.

Score: 95/+++