Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Wendouree Shiraz/Mataro

Some people would love this 2002 Wendouree Shiraz/Mataro. I think it has enormous potential, but could have been better.

Wendouree is one of these iconic wineries, and as a result it seems to be beyond criticism. However, as an independent reviewer, I feel free to not be intimidated by that.

This wine shows both components very well. There is rich and deep plum fruit from the Shiraz, and there is redcurrant and tannin structure from the Mataro, some eucalypt, too. The two elements are not well integrated, though. They stand side by side. The wine seems a bit alcoholic, too. Curiously, there is no information about the alcohol level on the label. Is this legal?

The wine has quite a long finish and has mellowed somewhat, but the best years are yet to come. This could still turn into an outstanding wine, but I am not convinced it will achieve the seamless elegance I would like to see in a blended wine. To me, the winemaking is a bit rustic and, dare I say it, outdated?

Score: 93/0

3 comments:

Sean Mitchell said...

I haven't tried this wine, but I do know that alcohol labelling is mandatory. Wine Australia's website confirms this. So that's a bit strange then ...

Cheers
Sean

Christopher Miley said...

I had a 2000 Shiraz Mataro last night Alanton, and I do understand your comments. But it did feel like drinking a piece of Australian history, especially on Anzac Day. Even after decanting it took an hour for the wine to open up, and in true ANZAC spirit I never surrendered (and neither did the tannins) till it was gone. Truthful score probably about 92, but a privilege to drink it. I'd guess it still needs another 10 years to be at its best - mind boggling. I also have a wine blog, strictly amateur at www.chrisonwine.com

Christopher Miley said...

Sorry forgot to mention, the alcohol content is in tiny print on the side of the label.