What can you write about a legendary wine? I will focus on what I experience as the striking feature. This brings me to paradox wines. I am not sure that I invented the term, but I have used it from time to time. A paradox wine is a wine which combines features which are normally opposite to each other, for example powerful and elegant. Powerful implies intensity, even brutality. Elegance implies lightness, detail. Yet some wines manage to combine both.
What do I see in the 2014 Château d’Yquem? There is pure honey, some toffee, candied fruits and hazelnut on the palate. The wine is smooth and long, but most strikingly, this is a paradox wine. It is very intense, yet lifted on the finish. The intensity makes it very serious, but it is also very pleasurable: a paradox wine.
Score: 97/+++
No comments:
Post a Comment