There has been a lot of talk about the DNA of Penfolds, comprising multi-regional sourcing, the use of small American oak barrels, fermentation straight into barrels. Little is said about the DNA of Henschke, maybe because the focus is on individual vineyards. Yet, at a recent tasting of iconic Australian and French wines, three different Henschke wines were tasted, and they had something in common which the others did not. These wines were a 2012 Cyril Henschke, a 2012 Mt. Edelstone, and a 2006 Hill of Grace.
So what did these wines have in common? I thought mulberry, aniseed, licorice, and some black earth minerality. Another taster saw some deep greens, like kelp in these wines as well. So this is the Henschke DNA, as much a function of old vines as of the winemaking, I think.
The 2012 Cyril Henschke, a Cabernet Sauvignon blend, tasted of blackberry, olive and some capsicum. The tannins had softened considerably, and the wine was in perfect harmony (96 points).
The 2012 Mt. Edelstone was quite perfumed. Mulberry flavours lead to a sweeter and riper mouthfeel. This was a deeply layered wine (94 points).
The 2006 Hill of Grace was even more perfumed; a very polished wine with black cherry and aniseed flavours. Harmony and elegance made this wine stand out (97 points).
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