Malbec is rising in popularity, as it is a variety which - while serious and ageing well - can be drunk early with a lot of enjoyment. The problem is, there are not many sources of first class Malbec. The Mendoza region of Argentina is the best known area, while most Malbec vines in France have been wiped out by various disasters, a major frost in 1956 being the last one. However, there is a pocket in Australia of maybe 100 year old Malbec vines. This is of course in the Wendouree vineyard.
I just opened a 2010 Wendouree Malbec, and it shows why it is so special. This is a big wine. Black cherry and ripe raspberry flavours dominate. There is a lot of acidity in his wine and the tannins are firm. The wine has a big mouthfeel, but at under 14% alcohol is not hot at all. It is said that Wendouree wines have become more approachable at young age, but this wine will certainly benefit from a lot more bottle age. At present, the acidity is too dominant. It needs to integrate into the other components, but this wine will be stunning when it has developed more complexity and mellowed with time.
Drink from 2020.
Score: 95/++
Thursday, December 11, 2014
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