Behind Greywacke is Kevin Judd, the founding winemaker of Cloudy Bay, and a hugely influential figure of the Marlborough region. The wines are made at Dog Point, another successful spin-off from Cloudy Bay.
Marlborough is generally thought of as producing lighter and quite fragrant Pinot Noirs. Well, the 2011 Greywacke Pinot Noir is not made in this style. The grapes come from hilly sites of the Southern Valley, a terroir which produces bigger wines.
This wine has a dark garnet colour. The fruit flavours are black cherry and blue plum, but the palate is dominated by savoury flavours, as a result of whole-bunch fermentation. Vanilla and dried herbs complete the complex flavour profile. The wine is quite tannic and the alcohol is noticeable as well.
I find the wine attractive to a degree, but it feels Judd wants to outdo Central Otago with this wine in terms of mouthfeel and richness, and as a result the wine seems a little overworked. Having said this, it has a solid structure and should improve for a two to three years and be good drinking for several more.
Score: 92/+
Thursday, May 15, 2014
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