Bannockburn Tasting

 Bannockburn from the Geelong region is a high quality producer famous for being the first winery to employ high density planting in the 1980s, and also for its legendary winemaker Gary Farr who during this time fashioned the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir along Burgundy principles (he worked at Domaine Dujac, where he completed 12 vintages).

The Serré vineyard

This tasting was focussed on the 2022 vintage, which was wet and cold. Unfortunately, it showed. The three Chardonnays lack fruit concentration and character. 

The Pinot Noirs fared a little better, but the light colour and lack of tannins are proof of the difficulties. The flagship, the 2022 Bannockburn Serré Pinot Noir is made from vines planted in 1984, based on the MV6 clone. The vineyard is planted to 8000 to 9000 vines per hectare. This is dense planting (see image), but not as dense as some Burgundy vineyards and some recent plantings in Australia. The fruit in this year tastes of strawberry and red cherry. There is some silkiness in the wine. Overall, it is quite soft (92/++ points).

The other single vineyard wine is the 2022 De La Terre. This vineyard was planted in the 2000s and is based on the 777 clone. Having younger fruit was actually advantageous in this year. The wine is a bit darker, with bigger red cherry fruit, and more crunchy (93/++ points).

The other Bannockburn story, less often told, is Shiraz. The wines are meant to be similar to Rhône style Shiraz. The first Shiraz tasted was the 2012 Shiraz. This wine is quite developed, with the blackberry fruit almost gone. Licorice and earthy flavours have taken over. This wine is elegant, but past its peak (91/0 points). 

The 2013 De La Roche Shiraz, a single vineyard wine, is very dark and a bit more lively. Mushroom flavours and some spice feature. I found the mouthfeel a bit sticky, but fine tannins balance this out (92/+ points).

Then came two big surprises. The 2003 Shiraz, from a warm vintage. This is a big wine, sunshine in the glass. There is an orange tint, but the wine is still lively. It is concentrated, but elegant and very balanced. I loved this wine, and I believe it is still available for purchase (95/+++).

But the star was the 1995 Serré. This was simply stunning. Orange in colour, this is still a lively wine at 28 years. Astonishing! It is very elegant and complex, with silky tannins and a long finish (97/+++). 

So what is the clincher here? Gary Farr left in 2004. He clearly made the 1995 Serré, and he would have had a hand in the 2003 Shiraz. Yes, 2022 was a difficult vintage, but is Bannockburn as good as it was under Gary Farr?