There have been many new winery developments in Australia in the last ten years. To me, two stand out. One is Alkina in the Barossa Valley, due to the financial investment, the international expertise and the interesting soils. Two is Place of Changing Winds at Macedon. This is because of the immense experience of Robert Walters, in particular with French wine, and the very scientific approach to vineyard establishment. I am not normally excited about winemakers trying to make French wine in Australia - why? Cultural cringe? But with Robert Walters it is a different depth of interest in high density planting and creating a world class portfolio of savoury Pinot Noirs.
Like Bindi before him, he has also ventured to Heathcote to make Shiraz, and different Shiraz from the typical full-bodied, high alcohol wine typical for the region.
It takes a minute to decipher this label
I was therefore interested to taste the 2020 Place of Changing Winds Syrah. It was very closed on opening. My note refers to the second night. The bouquet is very aromatic with black fruit scents.
On the palate, black cherry and blackberry flavours open beautifully in this medium-bodied wine. The mouthfeel is very elegant. I think Waters referred to wanting to make a Northern Rhône wine, and the lightness, but piercing drive can remind one of this. What is different, however, is the fruit sweetness on the mid palate, unavoidable in this climate and on the ancient red Cambrian soils. It is by no means very intense. The alcohol is a pleasant 13%. The soft tannins lead to a satisfying long finish.
This wine is a bit different from Bindi's Pyrette. Both have early picked fruit, but there is more serious structure in this wine. It would make sense to put this away for another three years or so, and the fruit sweetness will have mellowed somewhat. Good value for money, too.
Score: 94/++
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