I am continuing the theme of Grenache a bit more. It is not often you find a 100% Grenache in the Southern Rhone and possibly not at all in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the most highly regarded region there. Still, this is where I am heading today. I drank three Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines over three consecutive nights, all from 2016. This is what I found.
Those who have followed my blog for some years will know that I have a soft spot for Vieux Télégraphe. The 2016 Vieux Télégraphe is quite a ripe wine, yet it is balanced with complex flavours of blackberry, black cherry, olive, tobacco, and spice. Despite being full-bodied, it is an elegant wine. It feels very settled, with finesse and a smooth finish. The Grenache component in this GSM is 65%. These old vines are grown on the famous rocky soil of La Crau. This wine is quite dark and savoury, maybe not quite expected for a Grenache dominant wine.
Score: 96/+++
The 2016 Château de Vaudieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape is not the top bottling of this chateau, and it certainly did not measure up to the Vieux Télégraphe. The grapes are grown on sandy soil. This wine appears bigger in the mouth, reflecting the very dark colour. It is a juicier, more forward wine with earthy flavours. I would have anticipated a larger Shiraz component. However, this wine is 80% Grenache, most of the rest is Shiraz, with some Mourvedre. So it is a dark wine, but Grenache dominant, and grown in sand. Go figure?
Score: 92/++
The 2016 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf is a more energetic wine. It is a lifted wine with pronounced acidity. I see a bigger Grenache influence in this wine. However, the Grenache component is only 30%, the lowest between these three wines.
Score: 94/+++
I found this wine comparison totally baffling.
3 comments:
Interesting read. The Beaucastel Condoulet I've found to be reasonable as an entry-level to the region but needs a bit of time as primary when young.
Out of curiosity how long would you decant one of these before a meal? Eyeing a '17 Vielle Julienne Les Hauts-lieux for Australia Day for context. May opt for the '16 Domaine Lazaret or '17 Bulman Gigondas instead and let it sleep a bit longer.
I would decant for 2-3 hours. It helps for multi varieties to achieve harmony. It also ensures the same experience in glass one and two.
Thanks for the tip!
Ended up going for close to 3 hour decant and still quite tight believe or not. It's only another hour or two afterwards that the fruit is starting to peek through - more blackberry and black liquorice vibe I find. Probably needed a 4-5 hour decant all up.
Quite high tannin too. I like the style certainly but think I'll still more with nebbiolo as I find it has better value and approachability. Good to have some of these around though so I'll persevere.
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