Three great Chardonnays were pitted against each other, a Giaconda, a Leeuwin Estate, and a Meursault.
Giaconda was perhaps the first Australian winery which modeled its Chardonnay on Burgundy principles. This 2010 Giaconda Chardonnay, looking back from today's perspective, looks old-fashioned, though. The structure is fine, but the wine feels heavily worked in terms of malolactic fermentation and oak treatment. This wine is quite broad. Previous fruit flavours have given way to honeycomb, almond and marzipan notes. The mouthfeel is good and the finish satisfying.
The Burgundy representative is a 2014 Remoissenet Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru 'Perrières'. This wine is more refreshing than some Meursault with fine citrus and pineapple fruit. It feels a little aged already, but has good drive and persistence in the mouth. The finish is long.
The 2010 Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay is unmistakably Margaret River: white flower and warmer climate fruit flavours: ripe lemon, pineapple, passionfruit. However, the colour is still light, and the wine tastes fresh and young. This is a beautiful wine, full flavoured, yet dancing on the tongue: power and grace.
And the winner is Leeuwin Chardonnay.