Friday, April 24, 2015

Mauro Molino Wines

A sampling of a number of Nebbiolo wines reveals a couple of things. The multitude of regulations in Piedmont often does not allow more attractive branding, which offers opportunities to buy certain wines at lower prices than would otherwise be justified. Secondly, vintages are important in Piedmont, with the 2010 vintage being the stand-out in recent years.

The 2012 Mauro Molino Nebbiolo d'Alba is an attractive entry wine. It does not see any oak. The focus is therefore on the fruit, with a good cherry core and beautifully lifted aromas. This is an easy drinking style, and a wine which should be consumed in the next 2-3 years (90 points). The 2011 Mauro Molino Barolo comes from two vineyards in the Barolo subregion. The vines are relatively young and one vineyard is partly outside the demarkation. Therefore the generic labelling. This wine is aged for two years in old oak. The cherry fruit has an attractive intensity and delivers a satisfying, full-bodied mouthfeel. Obviously, this wine is more tannic and has a longer finish than the previous one (92 points).

The 2008 Mauro Molino Barolo 'Vigne Gancia' comes from their premium vineyard in La Morra. The wine has very lifted and floral aromas, but the mouthfeel is a bit light, whereas the finish is quite tannic (91 points). The 2010 Mauro Molino Barolo 'Bricco Luciano' comes from the same vineyard, but regulation required new naming. This is the wine of the night. The fruit is more concentrated and the mouthfeel fuller. Yet at the same time the wine is elegant and very well balanced (95 points). Then there were two Barolos from the 2011 vintage: the 2011 'Bricco Luciano' and the 2011 'Gallinotto'. These were ok Barolos, but did not measure up to the 2010 example in terms of fruit, mouthfeel and finish (91 points).

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