Valenciso Tasting

 Valenciso is a favourite producer from Rioja Alta. In Rioja, most Tempranillo is doused in American oak. The thoughtful couple from Valenciso wants the fruit to shine, and when oak is used, it is French. Yesterday, I had the opportunity to attend a rare tasting of a number of their wines. 

White wines from Rioja are underestimated. The 2020 Valenciso Blanco is a blend of 70% Viura and 30% Grenache Blanc. After a wild ferment, the wine is aged in untoasted Russian oak barrels for nine months. It is very fresh, but has depth in its balanced mouthfeel. There are subtle spices on the palate, and the zesty acidity leads to a focused finish. This is quite a serious and flavoured wine (93 points).

The first red is a new wine, the 2018 Valenciso Cemento. The fruit comes from 55 year old vines, grown at 550m altitude. As the name suggests, and the picture below shows, this wine is fermented and matured for 30 months in concrete tanks. It sees no oak. The wine is very fresh, with great purity, and red plum and blueberry flavours. It is a wine of medium intensity, with fine tannins and a medium finish (92 points).

I then tasted four Reserva wines. These are the Valenciso flagship wines. The vines come from a number of estate owned vineyards, with a minimum of 60 years old. They all are managed organically. The winery treatment is interesting: fermentation in concrete, then matured 18 months in low-toasted French oak (20% new). Then, the wine is transferred back to concrete tanks for 12 to 24 months. Because the wine clarifies so well in concrete, it is neither fined nor filtered before bottling.

I tasted from old to newer. The first wine is the 2001 Reserva. From a great vintage, this is now a beautiful mature and mellow wine. The concentrated fruit, mainly of dark plum, is still very present. Smoky flavours add to complexity. The mouthfeel is soft and silky, leading to a smooth and long finish. This is a beauty (96 points). 

The 2008 Reserva has a much younger feel. Cherry and subtle spice flavours are supported by fine tannins, but this wine does not have the depth or length of the earlier and later wines (92 points).

The 2011 Reserva from a warm year is a standout. Many Rioja wines from this year were very ripe, but this wine is perfectly balanced. It is deeply flavoured, with more volume than the 2008. Dark cherry and plum flavours are elegant and lead to a long and satisfying finish (95 points).

The 2014 Reserva does not have the same depth, but it delivers pure and beautiful fruit flavours of raspberry and black cherry. Minerality develops on the back palate, giving away the calcareous and limestone soils of the vineyards. The finish is not quite as penetrating as the 2011 (94 points).

If you are interested in drinking fresh and pure Tempranillo, Valenciso should be on your list.

Yering Station Chardonnay

 If you are looking for a high quality value Chardonnay, there is no better place in Australia than the Yarra Valley. This time, I am reviewing the 2020 Yering Station Chardonnay.

This is a pale and quite austere wine. Stone fruit flavours are added to by some earthy notes. This wine is quite dry, with a balanced mouthfeel and a fresh finish.

This wine is not overly complex, but the winemaking is excellent.

Score: 91/++

German Riesling Tasting

My taste buds are fine again, I think, but this is one from the vault: a tasting which happened two months ago. 

The tasting was structured in such a way that at first Kabinett-type wines were tasted, followed by GG (Grosses Gewaechs). All major German regions were represented. The first flight was young wines, the second was of five to six year old wines. Points were given for the favourite wines of the night.

The most highly rated wine ended up to be the 2015 Heymann-Loewenstein Uhlen Roth Ley, Mosel.

This wine impressed with a very complex palate, depth and its full mouthfeel. Despite richer characters, such as hazelnut, the wine had energy and minerality, reflecting the very special terroir of red slate on steep terraces. 

The second place was shared between the 2018 Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg, Rheingau and the 2015 Reichsrat von Buhl Jesuitengarten, Pfalz. Both wines shared notes of white flower, but were otherwise quite different from each other. The Robert Weil wine is quite austere, complex, yet linear, with a long finish. There was similarity to a top level Clare Riesling, in my view. The Jesuitengarten was a bigger wine, quite powerful, with citrus and stone fruit flavours, and a riper expression of a dry Riesling.

In third place, or fourth place if you like, came in the 2019 Egon Mueller Scharzhof Riesling. This is a remarkable winemaker with a remarkable property on a bend of the Saar (now labeled Mosel). The purity of the fruit of this slightly off-dry wine was amazing. It was already very complex for such a young wine, very fresh, with passion fruit standing out. The wine was slightly perplexing. It had great energy, even though the acidity seemed quite low.

This tasting demonstrated the rich landscape of German Riesling with quite different expressions depending on soil, winemaker, and region. It seems to me that Australian Riesling is pretty much cut from one cloth (with the exception of Frankland Estate perhaps), whereas this variety has so much to offer.

Covid-19

 It finally happened. The big C hit me on Saturday. Therefore, there will be a bit of a break with new reviews before I trust my taste buds again. 🥲

Giant Steps Chardonnay

 In the last ten years, Giant Steps have made - I have to say it - giant steps towards outstanding quality, in particular with its single vineyard wines. This, however, is a review of the 2021 Giant Steps Chardonnay, the entry level wine. The grapes are sourced from five vineyards in the Yarra Valley, some declassified from the single vineyard wines.

This is a vibrant wine from a great vintage in the Yarra Valley. Green apple and citrus flavours are interwoven with fresh acidity leading to a balanced finish. This is a very pleasant wine. The mouthfeel is a little simple, not too deep, but refreshing with a medium finish. 

Score: 91/++ 

The Domenica Range

 Domenica is the business of Peter Graham. He was a long-term winemaker at next door Giaconda, and also worked briefly with Chapoutier in the Northern Rhône. They then formed the joint venture Ergo Sum. In the end, Peter Graham bought out the other partners and formed Domenica in 2012. Today I am reviewing the current releases of the so called Domenica Range.

The 2019 Roussanne/Marsanne is an attractive wine. Apple and pear flavours develop on the palate of this textured wine. There is no new oak applied. The wine is not too broad, which can sometimes happen with this blend, and this is an achievement, given the warm vintage. This wine has good drive and acidity.

Score: 92/++ 

The 2021 Chardonnay, from a cooler vintage, is quite different. Given his time at Giaconda, there is a special interest in the Chardonnay. However, this is fairly different from the bigger and bolder Giaconda. Citrus and apple flavours deliver a reserved, yet somewhat fruity style. The wine is balanced and the small amount of new oak not very noticeable. This is a well-made wine, but I found it less convincing than the Roussanne/Marsanne.

Score: 92/+

The 2018 Shiraz is built in the cold climate style or the Northern Rhône style. It is fresh, red fruited, with a lot of pepper and earthy flavours on the palate. The tannins are very dry. This is a good wine, but I think the freshness is overplayed at the expense of fruit intensity.

Score: 93/+ 

The Nebbiolo is getting a lot of attention lately. This 2019 Nebbiolo is floral and elegant with rose petal notes dominant - a very pretty wine. It could be mistaken for a Langhe wine from one of the better producers, something that cannot be said of many Australian Nebbiolos. This is a balanced wine with a lot of typicity.

Score: 92/++  

 

 

Craggy Range and Torbreck

 I am drinking the 2016 Craggy Range Te Kahu Merlot blend. This wine hits me with its concentrated fruit. It is intense and powerful, but also elegant and quite smooth. I am reminded of Torbreck.

There is a lot of primary fruit here, blackberry and plum. The structure is firm, with a dry tannic backbone. There is great fruit in this wine; it is well made. However, the mouthfeel is of a thick and blocky wine. It is not layered.

Score: 94/0

As it happens, the first wine I grab after is the 2017 Torbreck Factor. This is Torbreck's most concentrated 100% Shiraz. In comparison to the Craggy Range, it is darker, riper, almost Port like, and the oak shows more. In my view, this is not like wine should be, and the dry year did not help. I do not think the winemaking has been great here. Interestingly, David Powell's favorite during his Torbreck reign has always been the Steading, not the more powerful wines with the best and ripest fruit, selling for three times the price.

Score: 89/-

PS: So in hindsight, the Craggy Range was nothing like a Torbreck (I just had forgotten) 

Gentle Folk Village Grenache

 The Adelaide Hills has become the major playing field for Australian wine: Barossa vintners and others make cool climate Shiraz here. The Piccadilly Valley is known for top notch Chardonnay. Many new varieties are planted. The most significant, though, is the natural wine movement emanating from Basket Range. I have tried a number of these wines, but found it difficult to get excited. This is perhaps, because many wineries here are hobby pursuits, and others are too hung up on philosophical principles. But then I found Gentle Folk. I came across their 'vin de sofa' (what a great name) in a wine bar. This team has considerable experience in other wine regions, and can therefore merge a natural wine making approach with solid traditional winemaking.

As you can see from the label, they are pretty modest. However, this 2021 Gentle Folk Village Grenache is a delight to drink. The purity of the fruit is fantastic. The raspberry flavours are reigned in by minerality and lively acidity. Being made naturally, there is not too much complexity, but I love this wine. And I think it will age well for 2-4 years at least.

Score: 93/+++ 

 

Wine Education

 Most of my readers have a deep interest in wine. Some of you may want to further your knowledge with some education. I was recently made aware of an excellent guide on wine education from around the world. Some of you may find this interesting.

https://rackandreturn.com/the-definitive-guide-to-wine-education/

Massolino Barolo

 Massolino calls the subregion of Serralunga home. It is perhaps the most heralded area in the Barolo region. The wines here are darker in colour and most intense, yet lifted and very drinkable due to the silky tannins. Massolino owns plots in the famous vineyards of Vigna Rionda, Parafada, and Margheria. The 'Barolo' labeled wine consists of fruit from these and additional vineyards which does not go into the single vineyard wines.

This 2010 Massolino Barolo is an absolute delight. The thought crossed my mind, why would I drink anything else?

The bouquet consists of fresh floral and perfumed notes, and is a little smoky.

On the palate, intense red fruits deliver a layered mouthfeel, perfectly balanced with vivid acidity. The wine dances on the palate. Silky tannins round out the beautiful texture. At 12 years old and under cork, this wine is a baby, and will further develop complex secondary flavours in the years to come.

Score: 96/+++ 

   

Wendouree Malbec

 Wendouree has this special aura of mystery. It mainly relates to the Shiraz and various blends. However, there are other astonishing wines to explore. Today it is Malbec.

The 2012 Wendouree Malbec is a full-bodied wine, as you would expect. It is under Stelvin and still fresh on the front palate. The dark cherry fruit is quite concentrated and a little thick, but still quite elegant. The tannins are coarse and start to take over from the pretty fruit on the back palate, maybe a bit much for my liking. Still, a very good example of mature Australian Malbec. 

This wine still has a decade in front of it without problems.

Score: 94/+

Special Tasting At Penfolds

 A few days ago, I was hosted at Magill Estate to a tasting of some special wines. 

The whites were the 2021 Cellar Reserve Polish Hill Riesling and the 2020 Bin 20A Chardonnay. The white wines have always lived in the shadow of the red wines, maybe until now. Cellar Reserve are one-off wines. They do not create restrictions which the major labels can do. This Riesling shows the expected lime and lemon flavours of Polish Hill. In comparison with Grosset, this wine has a wider mouthfeel, not quite as steely (this is a matter of personal preference). Having said this, it has a beautiful line of acid (94 points). 

The Bin 20A Chardonnay is the little brother of Yattarna. A stands for Adelaide Hills, where always 100% of the fruit comes from. This wine is nothing like any other Chardonnay I have tasted from Adelaide Hills. It is a much more powerful and quite funky wine.Whereas Yattarna seems carefully crafted, this wine lets loose. It comes from the Piccadilly area, and has been matured in 60% new French oak. The wine can clearly take it. Ripe melon flavours and a flinty minerality dominate the palate. This wine has personality (95 points).

The next section was a comparison of cork and stelvin closure, based on the 2013 Bin138 SGM. The wine is composed of 75% Shiraz, 15% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre. As expected, the wine under cork showed more development, with a slightly garnet colour. The stelvin wine showed red and purple. The wine under cork felt big in the mouth, with raspberry flavours. It had a sweet, somewhat fat core (92 points). The screw-capped wine was much fresher, with a more interesting flavour profile, including aniseed and some vegetable notes, such as fennel (94 points).

The result was not what I expected. For red wine, I prefer cork because of the more natural development (in my mind), whereas I have had a number of 10 year old red wines under screw-cap which showed frustratingly little development at all. However, in this comparison, the wine under cork was further developed than I would have liked, and ‘reduced’ to a sweet core. The wine under stelvin showed some development, and kept an interesting flavour profile.

I will skip over the Bin 28 wines. The comparison here was difficult because of the significant difference in age.

Finally, I tasted two wines from the new California Collection. The 2018 Bin 704 is the Penfolds Napa Cabernet. Sourced predominantly from Oakville and Rutherford i.e. the valley floor, and matured in 100% new French oak, this wine is positioned, if you will, against the premium Napa Valley Cabernets (and priced attractively by comparison). It has the boysenberry flavour I associate with Napa Cabernet, but it is not as open as the American wines. I feel it is tighter. The different fermentation style with Penfolds typical punch-downs, may explain this. The wine is quite long and has an elegant mouthfeel, which makes it quite approachable now, maybe because of the maturing in hogsheads (95 points).

Penfolds legacy is founded by risky experiments. The Max Schubert story of Grange is well known where Shiraz was used instead of  the Cabernet Sauvignon of Bordeaux. RWT was aged in French oak against all Penfolds tradition. Do we have another example here, when red wine maker Steph Dutton ‘threw’ 13% of ultra premium Shiraz fruit from Australia into the best Napa Cabernet fruit they had to create Quantum? This 2018 Quantum is called wine of the world, maybe a bit presumptuous, but no large wine company had ever done this before. This wine is matured in 100% French barriques. Is this a Napa Cabernet? Is this a Penfolds wine? What I would say is that it is a very high quality wine, with layers and layers of fruit, with blackcurrant dominant. It is much too early to drink now, but will unfold very well, I have no doubt. It will be longer lasting than most Napa Cabernet. It is Penfolds’ best Cabernet, but a Grange equivalent? Not sure (97 points).

 The reception by Penfolds was most enjoyable, and the expert comments by Zoe Warrington very much appreciated. This tasting was a real treat.