Penfolds The Max Schubert Cabernet Shiraz

 Penfolds is essentially positioned as a premium wine brand. Lately, however, a number of one-off products were released where the pricing no longer relates to the cost or value of the product, but rather to a recognition and admiration for the Penfolds name. It positions these prestige products similar to brands like Rolex, Hermès or Birkin. The wine I am reviewing here is a single product wine, but it was created before the prestige strategy was introduced. The 2012 Penfolds The Max Schubert Cabernet Shiraz is of course a premium wine. It was created to mark the centenary of Max Schubert's birth. The wine is inspired by the famous 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A in that it is also a blend of premium Coonawarra Cabernet fruit and Barossa Shiraz fruit. In this case, the ratio is 61% to 39%.

It turns out, this is a remarkable wine. It is rich and concentrated. It also shows why a Cabernet/Shiraz blend is such a good idea. The red fruited Cabernet provides the drive, the Shiraz fruit fills the mouth. The palate is complex and layered. Redcurrant and mulberry unfolds first, followed by velvety blackberry fruit and finally a dose of mocca. The wine is in perfect balance, as the 100% new American oak is well integrated. (This can be a challenge and requires first class ripe, but not overripe fruit.)  The wine has a persistent and clean finish which goes on and on.

At 13 years old, this is a perfect time to drink this wine. The structure is strong, the fruit is still vibrant, and the tannins have started to soften. One of my favorite wines this year so far.

Score: 98/+++

Eisenstone Ebenezer Shiraz

 When I visited Stephen Cook, the winemaker of the relatively new winery Eisenstone in the Barossa, I think it was in 2017 or 2018, my book 'Barossa Shiraz' featured on the tasting table. He explained that his focus to showcase the different subregions of the Barossa was heavily influenced by my book. Since then, his winery has gone from strength to strength. Yesterday, I revisited the 2019 Eisenstone Ebenezer Shiraz, which I bought on this visit.

Given the location, I expect a fairly rich wine infused with chocolate flavours. And yes, this is what I got. Black plum and blackberry fruit flavours are concentrated. Sweet mocca flavours deliver a rich mouthfeel. Ironstone and charred meat flavours add to the complexity. The additional years in bottle deliver a well rounded wine. The fruit comes from the famous Hoffmann vineyard, some from 1965 fruit, some from young vines. The wine is full-bodied, and with a surprising lift on the finish.

This wine, as I think the general positioning of Eisenstone wines, sits in the middle between the ripe wines of, say Torbreck or Standish, and the new wave of winemakers who pick early, and sometimes a little green. As such, it takes full advantage of the uniqueness, the Barossa climate can deliver in Shiraz,

without going to extremes. One can drink more than one glass of this wine, but it is also totally safe to cellar this wine for many more years. 

Score: 95/+++