De Bortoli Estate Vineyard Chardonnay

 De Bortoli is mainly know for its famous Noble One brand. But one should not forget it has sizable vineyard holdings in the Yarra Valley. This 2018 De Bortoli Estate Vineyard Chardonnay comes from there. 

The wine has an attractive mouthfeel with green apple and peach flavours. There are also some nutty notes. This is well balanced with sufficient acidity. The finish is a little short, but the overall 'package' is impressive for a value wine.

Score: 90/+

Domaine Santa Duc Le Pied De Baud Chateauneuf

 This 2015 Domaine Santa Duc Le Pied De Baud Chateauneuf-Du-Pape is a bright wine. Home for them is Gigondas, but they have this plot in the northern part of Chateauneuf. The soil is a mixture of sand, clay, limestone and pebbles. I believe clay dominates. The vines are 90 years old, on average. The wine is Grenache dominant (80%).

The winery aims its wines squarely at the American market. So this is full-bodied, ripe, but also quite energetic. The palate is an attractive mix of cherry flavours, earthy characters, and spice. The finish is long and persistent, but the alcohol is distracting.

Score: 92/+ 

Stonier Chardonnay

 The first impression of tasting the 2020 Stonier Chardonnay is the smart oak treatment. Cashew nut flavours dominate the palate. Underneath sit stone fruit flavours, but then again it is cashew nut. The oak influence is not massive, but enough to cover the underwhelming fruit flavours. The outcome is a well made, but not very interesting wine.

Score: 89/0 

Miloš Winery

 The winery Miloš, situated about 50km north of Dubrovnik, is astonishing. More than 20 years ago, while all aspiring Croatian wineries went for new oak and French barriques, this winery started to make what they now call natural wines. The winery is certified organic, fermentation with indigenous yeast, no fining and filtration, very little sulphur and maturation in large Slavonian oak (like Barolo). Volumes are very small, only a few thousand bottles per wine, yet the premium wine is found in leading restaurants in Los Angeles and New York.

The vines are grown on steep limestone hills. Yield is a low 0.8kg per vine. The red variety is Plavac Mali, which I described in a previous post, the white Rukatac, which I know nothing about.

The white wine is a relatively new addition to the portfolio. It is grown at 250m altitude. I taste the 2020 Stalagmit. This is quite a full-bodied wine at 13.5% alc. matured in stainless steel. The focus is the texture, not the fruit. Wet stone and minerality are key, with some citrus flavours coming through. The two sons of the original winemaker are now in charge. I spoke with one of them who admitted there is a bit to go before this is an outstanding wine (86 points). The 2020 Rosé is made from Plavac Mali. It is dry, but not as pale as the French versions, and bigger in the mouth (86 points).

Then we come to the red wines, and they are fantastic. First the 2018 Plavac Mali. This is made from vines less than 20 years old. Red and black cherry flavours are integrated with attractive limestone minerality. The wine is very clean and pure. The tannins are chalky, very dry. This is such an attractive package at 13.5% alcohol. I have never given a wine at 12€ or less than $A20, 92 points.

However, a big step up is the 2012 Stagnum. This is the premium Plavac Mali. This wine has just been released after spending 6 years in barrel and 4 in bottle. It comes from 20 to 50 year old grapes. Detailed work in the vineyard means they can pick earlier than less sophisticated neighbours at phenolic ripeness, with the resulting wine being 14 to 15% alcohol, whereas other Plavac Mali can go to 16, even 17%. Also, acidity is higher. This wine has a slightly orange tint, like Barolo. It tastes of red and black cherry and dry figs. Earthy notes underline the palate. This is a powerful wine, yet elegant in the mouth. The wine has drive, the tannins are smooth. This is a revelation (96/+++).

I also tasted the 2007 Stagnum. For starters, this is a 15 year old natural wine. It can be done. This wine is very smooth, lingers in the mouth, but it does not have the complexity of the 2012. The young winemaker attributes this to the learnings they have had since then (93 points).

It is a pity that most of you will never have the chance to taste these wines. They are utterly unique and amazing.

Complexity In Wine

 Pinot Noir is probably the grape variety most influenced by clone selection. Therefore, many years ago, winemakers were trying to identify the ‘best’ clone. They then discovered a certain sameness in the grape juice. Then there was a switch to growing a number of different clones per vineyard which lead to positive results; more interesting wines.

Single vineyard wines are all the rage now, and they are supposed to represent the place where the grapes come from, but do they deliver the most interesting wine? Penfolds does not think so. It is famous for its multi-regional blends. And if you have ever tried Grange, you may have marveled at the layering of the fruit flavours. This is the result of different vineyard sources.

But if you dig a little deeper, a more complex picture emerges. Take Château Cheval-Blanc, the famous right bank winery in Bordeaux. The vineyard has sections of gravel, clay, and sandy soil. They have identified 53 mini vineyards on this site. They have younger and older vines. They grow Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. All this goes into their famous wine. Single vineyard yes, but a multitude of expressions.

Closer to home, the Gnadenfrei vineyard at Marananga has a west and an east orientation. At the top of the hill, there is little top soil. At the bottom, there is alluvial soil. All this is the source of Torbreck’s Laird.

Vineyards and winemaking are incredibly complex. There is not a one size fits all, but complexity is something worth striving for.

Any thoughts?

Croatian Wine

 I am in Croatia, and while I am here, I am trying to understand a bit about Croatian wine. There are international varieties, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet, but also quite a few local varieties. The good thing is that all the wines I have encountered are dry, and pretty well made. On the other hand, most are a little straightforward. 

On the Islands of Hvar and Vis, the main variety is Plavac Mali. This is a cross between Zinfandel and the local Dobričić variety. The berries are small, and the yields low on the stony hills of the islands. Croatia claims it is the original home of Zinfandel. A very good wine I tasted was the 2015 Ivan Dolac Plavac Mali.

This wine is full-bodied, with dark cherry and blackberry flavours. There are strong earthy savoury notesand wet stone flavours. This delivers an attractive mouthfeel, although not totally balanced.

 The wine ends with a lasting smoky finish.

Score: 90/++

Moorooduc Estate New Releases

 I remember I recommended Moorooduc wines to one of my colleagues in the early 90s. This winery has been around for a while and produced good quality wines consistently. Also, its style is different from many Mornington Peninsula wineries, which focus on juicy, straight forward wines. This bears out in the new releases.

The 2019 Estate Chardonnay is a full flavoured wine, with stone fruit and some citrus. The 20% new oak imparts some creamy flavours as well. The wine is quite open, but shows good complexity.

The 2019 Robinson Chardonnay is a step up. Again, stone fruit flavours dominate in this fresh wine. Citrus as well. There is more drive and vitality in this wine than in the Estate. It is long rather than broad on the palate with good complexity. My pick from the Chardonnays. 

The flagship 2019 McIntyre Chardonnay has more of a citrus orientation. It is the most powerful of the three Chardonnays. There is a hint of butter on the palate. The wine is well structured and quite ripe.

I liked the 2018 Estate Pinot Noir. The combination of strawberry and sour cherry flavours with forest undergrowth reminds me of a typical Yarra Valley profile. Fine tannins make this a wine of great typicity.

The 2019 Robinson Pinot Noir includes more whole bunch. The Robinson site is the coolest Moorooduc vineyard. It shows in the acidity of this wine. Crushed leaves flavours add to the red fruits and deliver a wine of personality.

The 2019 McIntyre Pinot Noir has a similar profile, but shows more layering in the fruit flavours. It is a gentler wine, not as racy, but with great depth and richness, and a long finish. There is no whole bunch in this wine.

Overall, a solid release from the experienced Kate McIntyre.

Joshua Cooper Doug's Vineyard Pinot Noir

 As new releases of Joshua Cooper make the rounds, I felt like looking at one of his Pinot Noirs a few years old. The Macedon Ranges are perhaps the sweet spot of Pinot Noir making in Australia. The climate is marginal and there is a fair bit of rain, which Pinot Noir tends to like. A number of new and talented winemakers now try to follow in the footsteps of outstanding Bindi Wines.

All information is on the back label

The 2019 Joshua Cooper Doug's Vineyard Pinot Noir tastes of red and black cherry. There are notes of forest floor. This wine shows an excellent balance between fruit and savoury, earthy notes. At only 12% alcohol, it delivers a full mouthfeel. If I had a gripe, the wine could be more detailed and precise, but the overall impression is attractive. Fine tannins lead to a medium to long finish.

Score: 93/++

 

Elio Grasso Ginestra Casa Maté

 Elio Grasso, over the last 20 years, has risen to the top echelon of Barolo producers. Not insignificantly, this is due to the excellent vineyard sites. At the same time, the wines are still affordable (sort of, and compared with peers). 

The Ginestra vineyard sits close to the bottom of Monforte. The Casa Maté part of it is situated in the lower part of the vineyard and known for producing elegant wines. For the 2012 Elio Grasso Ginestra Casa Maté two things fortuitously have come together. The propensity to produce elegant wines and a vintage which has been described as producing the greatest finesse and red fruit orientation over the last 20 years.

Perfumed notes rise from the glass, red cherry is the dominant fruit element, but there is also an earthy and mineral component, like a umami flavour in this wine. The body is lighter than usual, and the mouthfeel is very elegant, like from an excellent Burgundy Pinot Noir . The tannins are fine, and the structure will deliver joy for those who want to drink this wine in 10 years time. This is a good example that power is not required for longevity. 

Score: 95/+++

Sato Pinot Noir

 In the past, I have been impressed by the Japanese Kusuda from Martinborough. Now I came across a second Japanese winemaker in New Zealand, Sato in Central Otago. One thing that is almost a given with anything Japanese, is attention to detail and a quality orientation.

It is therefore not a surprise that Sato sources only organically grown grapes for the 2018 Sato Pinot Noir. He uses only natural ferments, no additives during fermentation and minimal sulphur prior to bottling. Given the production is only 1700 cases or so, one can also assume that grape sorting is very detailed. He purchased his own farm in 2016, but this wine still only uses purchased grapes.

There is great purity in this quite aromatic and floral wine. Red cherry flavours dominate the elegant texture. Tannins are restrained before a medium plus finish. This is a very good, not great wine. It is likely that more aged grapes over time will further benefit this product.

Score: 94/++

Mount Pleasant Old Paddock & Old Hill Shiraz

 The financials of Mount Pleasant have been problematic of late, but some of their key wines shine.

The 2014 Mount Pleasant Old Paddock & Old Hill Shiraz still shines bright ruby in the glass. On the palate, black and red forest berries are matched with black pepper notes. This is an elegant wine with a kick. It is medium-bodied, and not super concentrated, but the silky texture is enticing. This wine has a long finish with mulberry flavours. It is a beautiful balanced wine. 

For those who are focused on South Australian Shiraz, I encourage you to taste this wine. You will not be disappointed. You can take your time, this wine will gain complexity for many years and last well for another 20, I think.

Score: 96/+++ 

Bekkers Syrah

 One of my great discoveries a couple of years ago has been the Bekkers winery. Toby Bekkers is foremost a viticulturist. And it is certainly true here that winemaking starts in the vineyard. The vineyard sites are very special, and so is the attention to detail. The second leg, though, is the winemaking. It starts with a strong philosophy here of making pure and elegant wines to deliver a world class outcome. French wife Emmanuelle is an essential part of this.

Drinking the 2018 Bekkers Syrah is experiencing all of the above. The wine is dark fruited, with layered black and blue fruit flavours. The wine delivers a silky mouthfeel. It is smooth and elegant. It drives down the palate in a measured way, as some red fruit, maybe raspberry is uncovered on the back palate. The key to this wine are the fine tannins leading to a very long finish.

This is a world class wine from an excellent vintage.

Score: 97/+++