Penfolds Grange

I am not one who advocates to keep bottles for special occasions. Often, they never come, and bottles become undrinkable. But conversely, if a special occasion happens, it is good to be able to open a special bottle. This happened to me a couple of days ago, and the special bottle was a 1998 Penfolds Grange. 

Excellent cork, medium to high shoulder

The colour of this wine was still dark purple. This was encouraging. The nose was a bit subdued, smells of cranberry rising slowly.

But on the palate, it all happened. Primary fruit was still there; cranberry, red- and blackcurrant paste, forest berry jam . There were mocca flavours and a whiff of eucalypt, but overall, secondary notes dominated; cedar, tobacco, cigarbox, charcoaled meat. All these flavours evolved in a layered fashion in this big wine. 

This Grange was still quite lively and fresh in the mouth - quite remarkable. The structure is monumental and still strong. This is unmistakably Grange. Muscular dry tannins lead to a very long finish.

It is a good time to drink the 1998. At 23 years, it probably delivers maximum complexity. No doubt, it will drink well for another 10 years if stored correctly. This wine needs protein.

Score: 98/+++

The Wines Of Jura

 Jura wines are relatively rare, representing only 0.2% of French wine production with its 2000ha under vine. They also represent quite unique wine styles, as described below, and they are all the rage in the bars of New York and Tokyo. The authorized grape varieties are Savagnin and Chardonnay for white wine, and Poulsard, Pinot Noir and Trousseau (Bastardo) for red. Two third of the plantings are for white wine, and this is where most of the interest lies.

One of the unique styles is vin jaune (yellow wine), only made from Savagnin. The wine juice is matured for six years in neutral casks. It is not allowed to be topped up for five years. As a result, ullage develops, which results in an oxidized wine. The impact is somewhat reduced by the yeast which develops as a thin cover, similar to sherry production. A second group of wines is called sous voile, which means the wine matures under yeast as well, but not for the duration of vin jaune. This can be Savagnin or Chardonnay. Macvin are wines with the addition of a neutral spirit. This wine can be made from all five varieties. And then there is the desert wine vin de paille. This wine is made from air dried grapes. Conventional wines are made as well, red and white. In contrast to other regions, red wines are meant to be drunk young, whereas white wines are mostly aged.

Tasting these wines can be challenging and does not necessarily correspond with expected varietal character, as the production method dominates. I will report briefly on the outstanding four wines from a recent tasting.

The wine on the left is the 2016 Jean Francois Ganevat Les Chamois du Paradis. The flavours in this sous voile wine are exotic. Pear and orange peel and some flintiness capture the palate. This wine has been matured in neutral oak for four years and topped up occasionally. The wine is elegant and balanced (95 points). 

The 2010 Lucien Aviet Savagnin has also been matured sous voile. It is quite an aggressive wine, very yeasty, similar to sherry, with lime and hazelnut flavours dominating. It is long, but I found it a bit one-dimensional (93 points).

The 2010 Lucien Aviet Vin Jeune takes it a step further. This wine is very oxidized, yet still lively and fresh. It is quite salty with a very long finish (94 points).

The absolute highlight was the 1996 Tissot Arbois Vin de Paille. This very rare (not that the others are common) desert wine is oily and melts in your mouth. It is lively and dances on the palate. Caramel, raisin and pepper stand out. The finish is very long (98 points). 

  

Maude Pinot Noir

 Maude has been a favorite of mine since I visited this boutique winery, located in a small side valley off Wanaka Lake in Central Otago quite a few years ago, and not well known. This changed, when the 2017 Maude Pinot Noir was voted New Zealand's best Pinot Noir of the year. Today, I am tasting this wine.

The Maude Pinot Noir is a blended wine from different sites in Central Otago, and not even the top wine, which, by price, is the single vineyard from the home block. This is quite often the case, and a purchasing opportunity, as the focus is on single vineyard wines and terroir.

The bouquet of this wine does not give too much away, but on the palate, a beautiful red and black cherry flavoured wine unfolds. This wine is bright and very pure. It is lighter and more elegant than the typical Central Otago wine. It has an ethereal and captivating mouthfeel. Fine and silky tannins wave around the fruit. The finish is medium to long.

Score: 95/+++

    

Chateau Malescot St. Exupery

 The most aromatic wines in Bordeaux come from the subregion of Margaux. The 2009 Chateau Malescot St. Exupery is a very good example. It is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot (rounding).

The nose is intense and perfumed, with forest berry notes. On the palate, blackcurrant, black cherry, graphite and cedar flavours deliver a typical Cabernet Sauvignon sensation. The mouthfeel is elegant with gentle spice.The wine delivers quite a regal experience. There is a bit of a hole on the mid palate, but it is minor, before the wine finishes very smooth. It lingers on the palate with well integrated tannins.

This is a classy wine which deserves more recognition. It drinks well now, and will stay at this level for another 5-10 years for sure.

Score: 94/++ 

Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc

 As you would probably expect from a blog like this, there are not many reviews of Sauvignon Blanc. But let us not forget that blends with Semillon produce great results in Bordeaux and Margaret River. In New Zealand, a number of companies have released more complex Sauvignon Blancs by maturing them in oak, for example. There are, however, some 'standard' Sauvignon Blancs which should not be overlooked. One such wine is the 2020 Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc. This producer has delivered quality for many years.

Yes, there are gooseberry and some herbaceous flavours, but there is more. Peach, mango and lemon curd add complexity to the palate - and there is fresh acidity on the finish, as you would expect.

The wine will benefit from another year in the bottle in order for the somewhat aggressive acidity to settle down.

Score: 90/+

Top 5 Wine Trends 2021

 As I was reflecting on the major wine trends this year, I came to the conclusion nothing will change them in the next few weeks, so I might as well share them now. This is written from an Australian perspective.

1) The rise of Grenache. 

Grenache has been with us for a long time, of course, first as an input into port, then as a key component of GSMs. But now, high quality varietal wine is made, and the consumers are lapping it up. Grenache suits warming climate, and its flavours and freshness are also well suited to our palates. Key growing areas are the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, and some high quality is coming from the Great Southern Region in Western Australia.

2) Value Chardonnay

Value Chardonnay has always been around, but never in the numbers and quality as now. These wines are really narrowing the gap to the ultra premium wines. It will be interesting to see how this dynamic will further develop. Best examples come from the Yarra Valley and Margaret River.

3) Elegance over power

Producing powerful elegant wines can be regarded as the holy grail, but in reality, this is seldom achieved. Powerful wines are often high alcohol, tannic, and a little harsh. Well now, many producers give up some of this power for elegance. Grapes are picked earlier, less new oak is used. This trend applies to many wines, but in particular Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. Of course, not all winemakers follow this trend, but it is undeniable.

4) Zero Alcohol, wine in cans

This trend is still emerging, but in quite a powerful way. There are a number of factors at work. The major one is to appeal to young drinkers, many of whom find the wine traditions unappealing. And in general, many consumers want to reduce alcohol intake without giving up wine. Quality remains an issue, but major improvements are likely.

5) More and more varied Rosé

Rosé has become an acceptable drink - it took a while. Now it comes in many styles, from many countries, made from many different grapes and blends.

So there it is for 2021.

Bass Phillip Issan Vineyard Pinot Noir

 The Issan Vineyard is situated 15km from the famous Bass Phillip home block. It was densely planted in 93 and 94 according to Burgundy principles. The Pinot Noir from it is Bass Phillip's cheapy, well, it is all relative.

The 2015 Bass Phillip Issan Vineyard Pinot Noir shows some development in the glass, as an orange tinge envelops the red colour. On the nose, beautiful rose aromas rise from the glass.

On the palate, red cherry and red and black forest berry flavours emerge. There are some earthy notes, but fruit dominates, leading to a soft mid-palate. The flavours are not that complex, but the wine is fresh and energetic. This wine is not as intense as the Estate wine. The tannins are fine and firm, and the finish is medium in length.

Overall, this is a balanced wine, but not in the league of the original vineyard. Perhaps this is a little disappointing, given this vineyard was constructed with high ambition. It will be interesting to see what the new owner will do with it.

Score: 92/++ 

Yes Said The Seal Pinot Noir

 

The name is unusual, but this was not the only thing creating interest when this wine was released. It beat all famous entries in some show. There was some concern raised how the 2016 Yes said the seal Pinot Noir would age, so let's have a look.

This wine is quite delicate on the nose, with an appealing strawberry bouquet. On the palate, the strawberry notes continue, but there are also black cherry flavours. More pronounced are savoury flavours, such as mushroom, earth, and wet stone. This wine has good Pinot Noir typicity. The palate is quite elegant and delicate. This is why people were concerned about ageability. However, the wine has a firm acidic backbone and silky tannins.

This wine is beautiful now. The structure is perhaps a little fragile. I suggest to drink this wine now to two years. 

Score: 94/+++

Classification Turmoil At St.-Emilion

 The classification of St.-Emilion needs to be renewed every 10 years. Wineries need to submit an application and supply their credentials. Cheval-Blanc and Chateau Ausone, who are in the highest classification, have decided not to make a submission for the 2022 renewal. Their reasoning? There is now some emphasis placed on the treatment of visitors and social media activities. They believe it should remain based on terroir, wine, and history alone. It is therefore likely they will drop out of the classification, and they do not mind.

Is this another stepping stone towards making these classifications irrelevant? The other being that some lower rated wineries on the left bank outperform higher rated wineries on a consistent basis.

PS: I visited Chateau Ausone some years ago, and was treated very well. 

A Premium Merlot Tasting

 Merlot is a fickle grape. If the wine is not from Pomerol or St. Emilion, it is a disappointment, most of the time. Merlot is a good blender with Cabernet, fleshing out the mid-palate, but on its own, it often lacks structure. A group of us got together to find out if there are excellent Merlot examples outside the famous Right Bank areas. And indeed, we found an outstanding wine, and several good examples.

The outstanding wine was the 2016 Henri Milan 'Le Jardin'. This wine comes from Provence, and the winemaker has the understated goal of achieving Petrus quality on this special plot of blue clay. The winery is biodynamic. Therefore, the beautiful perfume on the nose is perhaps no surprise. This is a complex wine with blackcurrant, truffle, dark chocolate and horse saddle flavours. The wine is quite tannic and has a huge amount of energy. Sadly, production is minuscule (96 points). He is on his way, I think.

The second wine was the 2010 Villa Maria Gimblett Gravels Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon Library Release. This is perhaps not an entirely fair inclusion, as this wine is only 67% Merlot, but still, Merlot dominates. Villa Maria produces wines of varying quality, this wine impressed.

This is a complex wine. Floral notes rise invitingly from the glass. The palate is very elegant and focussed. Herbal flavours reminded me of Italian origin. The wine is not underripe, in fact the core is sweet, and the tannins are silky (94 points).

The third wine is another small production wine. It is the 2015 Chateau Picoron. It comes from a right bank vineyard, if you will, which is situated 10-15km south-east of Saint-Emilion.

From a warm vintage, this is a powerhouse. It is a bit in your face and aggressive. Black and red cherry fruit dominates, and there are savoury notes as well. The tannins are high, as is the alcohol (15.2%). The structure is sound, and the finish long (91 points). I preferred the 2016, which was also tasted. It was similar in style, but gentler (92 points).

The last wine I would like to report on is the 2018 Hickinbotham The Revivalist Merlot. It comes from the cool northern part of McLaren Vale. In fact the Merlot is grown from the highest altitude plots of this outstanding vineyard. 

The wine was not rated as highly as the last two, probably because of its strong fruit component on the palate. This wine makes a big statement. It is lush, but not just fruity. Mushroom flavours add to the very balanced mouthfeel (94 points). I liked it a lot, and a very experienced taster thought it was from Pomerol.

The Merlot grape is a very 'open' grape, which means it is influenced a lot by terroir. The 'Le Jardin' is grown on blue clay, and the Hickinbotham is also grown on very old silty loam and brown clay. I came to the conclusion that soil is a key factor for this variety, more so than for any other major grape variety. 

A number of older Merlots (more than 10 years) were also presented at the tasting. They had lost their fruit and were over the hill. Another lesson: do not age Merlot for too long.

   

Tertini Lagrein

 On to the second exotic. It is perhaps less exotic, as Lagrein is a Northern Italian variety. The name is Austrian, and it originates from Tyrol. I call it exotic, because it is not well known, even in Italy, and much less in Australia. This wine is produced by Tertini, an Italian family wine company in the Southern Highlands. The Southern Highlands themselves are not well known for premium wines, but Tertini stands out, and I encourage people to try their wines.

The 2018 Tertini Lagrein tastes of black cherry, sour cherry and herbs (not because of unripe). This is a medium-bodied wine with quite an attractive flavour profile. The acidity is very high, and would not be everybody's cup of tea. Tannins are medium, and the finish is very soft.

This wine needs time to mellow, and the ageing potential is good.

Score: 91/0 

Zorah Karasì

 Today is the first report on two exotics. Over the last couple of years, wines from Georgia have become more popular, in particular the natural wines. In a tasting some time ago, I found most wines sub-standard, I have to say. Today, however, the reviewed wine is from Armenia, the likely birth place of wine growing. 

The 2018 Zorah Karasì is grown close to Mount Ararat, at an elevation of 1400 meters. It is near the Areni cave, considered the oldest winery at 6100 years of age. The grape variety is the indigenous Areni Noir. It has a very thick skin and is well suited to the diurnal temperature variation of this continental climate. In 2012, an Areni Noir wine made it into Bloomberg's top 10 wines world-wide.

Zorah is the preeminent winery in Armenia today. I am not sure of the winemaking process, other than the wine is aged in amphorae. Karasì means 'from amphorae'.

Now to the wine. The colour is deep purple. It is medium- to full-bodied, with flavours of dark cherry and mulberry. Not a very detailed expression, but it tastes elegant in the mouth. Dry and coarse tannins cut through the fruit. 

This wine has some complexity, and the slightly harsh finish is quite long. It is a distinctive style, maybe closest to Malbec in its fruit orientation. Further refinement can make this an excellent wine.

Score: 90/+